Im going auto in my Omni. I am in need of a converter. Who can tell me what I need based off my specs?
car 2600 w/driver
2.5 8v
a-413
precision 5431 w/ tubular header
big plenum intake
f4 cam
Im going auto in my Omni. I am in need of a converter. Who can tell me what I need based off my specs?
car 2600 w/driver
2.5 8v
a-413
precision 5431 w/ tubular header
big plenum intake
f4 cam
What are your goals/objectives/uses for the car ?
1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 400,000 miles. "the science experiment"
1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore ?
to go as fast as possible
Usually set the stall to close to max torque rpm of the engine or in powerband of the Cam. The amount of torque made will determine how the builder sets up the convertor.
Sounds like you should ask Wayne what he had in mean-mini. Sounds like a similar setup for cam and power wise.
I actually spoke to him last night. The previous set up made 425whp and 400ft lbs. I haven't run the new set up but I'm hoping for 100hp more. went to a "smaller" turbo to regain my low end grunt. Unfortunately I won't run this set up soon enough to order a converter after dynoing so I'm trying to get one bought/ordered before based on specs. My first race is may 6! I'm on a time crunch.
May I ask what was the turbo on your old set up? For your power goals it seems like you would be maxing out a 5431.
I ran an out of boost stall of 3500 rpm on my GLHS with a 2.2/SC 6152 turbo-3.22 ratio A413. I could build up WAY MORE BOOST than what the tires could hold on the launch (seen as high as 22psi)! I had three stages of boost to help with traction control. Just saying!
I have never ran anything but a stock turbo van converter, the same one in like 6 vehicles. The best 1/8 time was 7.06@98, from what I have seen on the higher stall aftermarket converters is a lot of slip % on the big end if you run 1/4 mile. I think gearing is the most important thing, and trans fluid.
With the 341 I was only able to build 12-14psi on the 2step, and it served the best launches at that. The car was a dog down low. (7.5s at 100mph and 11.9s at 130). It would t spool great on the line without really popping. So I'm hoping the smaller turbo (63 housing) combined with the auto will shoot out of the hole well. I don't want to have issues with not being able to build boost easily on the line which is why I'm asking about converters. The racing I do is instant green. No time to stand and build, I need to be ready.
That really takes out the personal experiences of probably 95% or more of the forum members. I was going to suggest the stock turbo converter, which can get you well over 3000 rpms given enough time, and likely above what your tires can handle. It's very difficult to answer.
I have 7 seconds from the time the prestage bulb is lit to be staged. There is a little room but not much
I have raced in several 1/8 mile and no preps with the Shadow, with similar staging rules. do yourelf a favor and dont run slicks, look into M&H 235-60-15 bais ply, they always seem to hook better.
For the record I didn't want/need to build boost for the launch. Even though I could. Instead I would just bring the R's up high enough to lean against the converter a little and then bump in!
And maybe this will be the case, I've never raced one of these cars as an auto. And the big he341 wears slow to get going so I needed it to be spooled up for it to 60 well. Either way, contraption2.2 came through for me so I will try his 3k converter first and see where adjustments need made after the first race.