I have never heard of this before, would this cause my problem? I still don't know what to do about the balanced shafts!
I have never heard of this before, would this cause my problem? I still don't know what to do about the balanced shafts!
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_oil_pump.html
In RED LETTERS.
I have not removed them,just wondering if I should or not
I have never put sealant on any of my pumps & have never had a problem
Do yea think it could be related? There IS supposed to be sealant between the block and pump. Look at a FSM if you don't believe us. Just because you haven't ever done that and not had issues (that your aware of) doesn't make it optional.When you bolt the oil pump to the block you have to use flange sealant. Loctite makes it.
Were just trying to help you turbo-tease. After all, you asked for help.
Todd
don't think its related, didn't say I didn't believe anyone that's why I ask for other peoples opinions. wish i had people near me so they could see what I am talking about this problem is just driving me nuts
I'm having some issues trying to get my attachment to show or my edits to work without deleting everything. Anyway, here's a picture of my factory gauges indicating zero oil pressure compared to a mechanical gauge. I was attempting to reply to turbovanman's question about how you are verifying oil pressure? This is at a hot idle on my car, it periodically will do this which prior to installing the mechanical gauge was pretty nerve wracking!
1991 Chrysler Lebaron GTC convertible - a568 - 15psi FWD Stage 3, FMIC, TII Garrett turbo, two of the big ones
Yes. I've been through four senders on my '91.
It reads normal most of the time, when it started to tank like that I thought the motor was toast (I had just replaced the head). I'll try a new sensor next oil change, but I like the mechanical gauge for reassurance anyway.
1991 Chrysler Lebaron GTC convertible - a568 - 15psi FWD Stage 3, FMIC, TII Garrett turbo, two of the big ones
No, mine is an instrument failure only. That's why I was curious if you have tried a real oil pressure gauge? They are inexpensive and can be removed if you don't want to install it permanently.
1991 Chrysler Lebaron GTC convertible - a568 - 15psi FWD Stage 3, FMIC, TII Garrett turbo, two of the big ones
how could I have good oil pressure on start up but crap oil pressure at operating temperature? that's what doesn't make sense
As oil heats up it thins out and becomes easier to pump. Metal parts expand and increase tolerances. These combine to reduce the resistance against the oil flowing through the galleys, resulting in a lower pressure reading. Oil pressure always drops when the engine heats up. Only question is does it drop too far . . . ?
it drops too far because it will make noise that is very noticeable
Take the pump out and measure the clearance limits in your FSM. Or just replace it. Either way, use the anaerobic sealer on the mounting flange. While you're at it, inspect your rod and main bearings, but chances are if you're getting a lot of racket, it's probably too late.
will over pressure trigger the CEL too? Cold running to work today (58*F) and my gauge was showing H right on the border of past high and I was noticing my CEL coming on, wasn't the knock sensor.... I don't think, I was in 4th with light throttle, no boost.
Sorry to thread-jack but as you guys were talking oil pressure...../
Very odd to see overpressure with the relief mechanism on these pumps. I would suspect the sender with that issue.