Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
They have to have larger...the fuel and oil lines for large equipment can be quite large. Maybe at that point they don't consider them AN fittings, just JIC hydraulic fittings (I think I got that acronym right).
"AN" simply means that they fall within the military standard of measuring hydraulic fittings. They may, or may not be Mil-Spec. To my knowledge they are all 37* taper fittings, which match JIC. I think I'm correct on that.
Just a long overdue update -
Bigger (-16) lines and fittings are on the way.
I got the 2nd set of beadlocks from Rrider and had a used set of street tires put on. They're a little bit heavier than the skinnies, but the street tread should help to hold the car in the water box. Installing them I noticed that the RH rear brake doesn't hold for crap. So, I need to adjust that. Also had to buy some 5mm spacers to fit the wheels over the studs.
I dropped the k-frame and whacked it over to the drivers side as much as I could. but, I think it moved 1/8" at the most. I also loosened up the passenger side a-arm and pulled it out to the limit of the bolt slop. That got my camber to be equal on both sides with the adjusters in the same basic spot. So, I should be in a better spot to get the front end dialled in.
This entire summer was basically a loss. With my new position, I haven't had any free time during the week to work on the car. And, BoostButton takes up all my weekends as a result. I haven't had the car out since April. And now it's turning cold. If I can get it aligned this weekend, I may get out one more time this year. Luckily, my job seems to be calming down now. Hope it stays that way thru to the spring.
Need to get all my tuning stuff working so I can really dial in this cal.
I got the -16AN water hose built up. Drained the water out of the car, then I got cold and so I went in to watch football.
Also forgot to add, 2manyturbos brought me a hollow-tube rear axle at the GL-SDAC Fall Color Tour.
I'll grind on it a little bit to take even more weight out, then blast it and paint it. I think it will also get 3/4" Heims instead of rubber bushings. And, I'm going to read the rules and see what I can do for 'wheelie' bar (aka traction bar). I may end up adding some mounts to this thing before it goes in.
Were you able to test the weight difference?
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Where you going to do the heims exactly? I don't think you can for the main bushings as the axle moves side to side slightly as it goes up and down. Maybe there's a way to allow for that? I don't know. Curious as to your thoughts on it.
Rob I don't know if you saw this yet, but we are now allowed to run head studs in our stock eliminator motors.
No, I hadn't seen that yet. I haven't had a problem with the stock bolts, but it's good to know we can use better fasteners. Next motor will probably get them. The engine in the car now was built to 2006 standards. There's a lot I can do now that wasn't legal then (valve job, valve springs).
Depending on how the Hiem joint is installed it is totally possible to keep the articulation of the rear axle without binding it up. I've been thinking about how to do it for a long time and the best solution I've come up with is to make an adapter that allows the joint to be pressed in and the adapter is either welded or bolted into the axle. A joint similar to what is used for most strut pillow-ball mounts would be up to the task, I think.
Stole this on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301385424843...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Is ttre8492 anyone on here?
Good price on that!
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Yeah... SCORE!
MinivanRider
Wow, long time no updates...
I've been thinking this winter about how to get this car to be more consistent. Since NHRA class racing is almost always bracket racing, I really need to be able to dial this car consistently; and make the dial.
When we got the LeBaron, it came with a ton of recent and old timeslips. And, it turns out my car is both faster, and more consistent getting off the line. But, it's still not good enough.
Daytona 60' vs. R/T
Lebaron 60' vs. R/T
The interesting thing is, both cars have about the same 'scatter' in R/T. The LeBaron is just a little faster (and red lights more often). I'm not sure what that means really, if anything.
But, the Daytona is maybe a tenth faster, a less scatter' on the 60'. Of course, it's 200lbs lighter running the same engine and trans combination. So, it should be faster.
The next thing I looked at recently, was my staging RPM, throttle position, and MAP; for those runs where I had data. And, I found a pretty big discrepancy between runs. I'll post more tomorrow when I finish my spreadsheet...
If a person were so inclined, could a delay box be set up using the cruise switch?