Crap. It's not a lifter tick. Sounds like maybe it's coming from the distributor. I can only really hear the tick when I put my stethoscope on the distributor body or cap. I opened it up, but the shutter isn't loose. There does seem to be a lot of play in the shaft; IE relative to the intermediate shaft. What's a normal amount of play on the distributor? This one seems like it has ~ 1/8" of movement looking at the shutter vanes. Guess I need to pull it...
Im not sure how you take lash out of that gear interface other than mocking up a bunch of spares in a block and testing them. Or you could try for new parts I guess.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Dave Zelkowski quote:
"Here's the Team Shelby fix. Take out the distributor and hold it upside down in your left hand (or right hand if you're left handed). Get a hammer and smack the drive blade several times to slightly mushroom the end. Check the fit back in the engine. When it's just right the distributor will go in with some light resistance. It's crude but it works!"
Thanks
Randy
There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.
Randy Hicks
86 GLHS60
86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
89 Turbo Minivan
83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
Edmonton,Alberta,Canada
I knew about that. It's on the list of things to try. I'm just not sure if that's it - this is a new noise. It wasn't there early last year, and really just started last fall. I thought it was a lifter; that's why I replaced them all.Originally Posted by GLHS60
It doesn't seem like the distributor would 'wear' out like that.
It turned out to be the flex plate bolts. 3 of the 4 had loosened up. 1 quite a bit. Which is odd; they haven't been touched in years. Anyway, the tick is gone. Going to Milan to test tomorrow...
Good catch!! Waiting on Milan results.
Thanks
Randy
There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.
Randy Hicks
86 GLHS60
86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
89 Turbo Minivan
83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
Edmonton,Alberta,Canada
Grrr. Now I have a code 54 - Dist Sync. And, it's on 2 different computers; and 2 different HEPs. Must be a wiring issue. The long winter was not nice to my race car. Coming out of hibernation has been tough this year.
EDIT: That gray 8-pin connector from the engine harness to the engine bay harness is a finicky b-tch on the SBEC cars. I had to move the harness a little to get the K&N filter on the intake tube. And, the connector pulled apart - just to the limit of the clip - but that was enough to break the connection for the coolant temp sensor and the HEP wires.
That connector is now on my list of things to replace...
Last edited by ShelGame; 04-26-2014 at 07:51 PM.
At least you found it!
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
HOLY CRAP!!! I'm glad you found the flex-plate bolts! That could have been bad. Did you put Loc-Tite on them?
Race Report:
Weather was great. Sunny, 55deg, very dense air. Great for turbo cars. I had 2 time trials, lost 1st round, bought back, lost again. 4 passes total. 1st round car was on a 13.2x pass, but I was on a breakout, so I lifted and got a 13.30 @ 97mph. Best 60' was a 1.85. Had a couple runs over 100mph.
Cooling system - It worked well, but maybe not quite enough for a hot day. Temp would get to ~220 at the end of the 1/4mile. However, it does cool down very quickly. It was down to 140F by the time I got my timeslip. On a hot day, though, I'm concerned that the temp might get too hot on the run. I'm going to change the pulley ratio on the pump and speed it up a little. I may also go up 1 size on the bottom hose just to increase the capacity (more volume to sink heat into).
Knock Box - worked, but couldn't use it. The headphones I brought wouldn't fit under my helmet. Oops. I'll bring earbuds next time.
MPScanDroid - I have my old cellphone setup as a dedicated car datalogger, mounted to the lower dash. It worked, but had a couple of glitches that kept me from getting any data of my runs. I only have data of idling around the pits.
Car - No knock indicated at all on my in-car videos (yes! something worked!). Not sure if I can attribute that to the #4 cooling mod, or just the nice cool, dense air. I'll try to get better data next time. On the plus side, this was on my AFR adjusted cal, which gave massive knock last year. So, that's a positive sign.
Also, the front end needs a real alignment, badly. It leaves very squirrely, and kind of keeps that going until 3rd gear. Not sure what's up, but I need to re-check it.
Well, going within a few tenths of your best mph right off the trailer is pretty cool.
Hard to compare great conditions to other conditions but seems like some of the mods are working. It will be easier to tell how much they're doing when the conditions are less ideal.
I'm worried about the cooling system.. seems like it is already close to maxed out with the setup that you have. Are you sure it's a not a flow issue vs total thermal mass?
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
I think its a thermal mass issue. It heats up fast, and cools down fast, compared to previous. Of course, cooling down fast is good
Probably, I will both add thermal mass (via a 1 size larger bottom hose), and increase flow by spinning the pump faster.
I looked back a couple of pages, but I'm on my lunch break, so not a lot of time.
Do you have an oil cooler? I think you do, but I can't remember.
What size radiator?
Speeding up the water pump just might do the trick. I'm curious what the outcome of that will be.
Originally, I had an oil cooler. But, I took it off long ago.
Radiator is stock 2.5 T1, per the rules.
I would think that a stock TI rad would be able to keep any 2.2 cool. I think that upping the size of the lines would definitely help you out in that dept.
Hmm, looking at a datalog stock 3.0 radiator which should be very similar went from 198 degrees to 202 degrees from 1st to 4th gear. Started out hot, had ~192 degree stat and manual fan turned off. Probably double the HP and only 4 degrees change.
This is a time I would be interested to know EGT's, intake temperatures, and actual temperature of the radiator vs engine coolant. I would first suspect a lack of heat transfer from the radiator to the air. Possibly a lack of airflow through the radiator or..... assuming the headgasket is functioning.
When researching AN fittings for coolant lines I realized that large AN lines do not exist, but people with huge v8 engines use them, even in race cars. Moving hot water through the coolant system faster won't do anything but rob horsepower and slow down your car. I would want to run the waterpump as slow as possible without having temperature problems if I was trying to do your class of racing.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
He's running an electric water pump, so very little power loss by speeding the pump up.
Large AN does exist, but not through your typical race shops. To go to the size needed for cooling systems your best bet is aircraft parts. It's out there, it's just not cheap....at all!
Well, assuming the system didnt heat up that much before (was it ALWAYS 220 at the end of a pass?) and the only thing that changed is the diameter of the radiator hoses, i would assume it is a flow issue. Are there any datalogs from before the change?
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Rob I have your wheels ready to send but your PM inbox is full.
I've seen 16AN fittings but nothing larger. Where do you go for bigger than 16?
MinivanRider
Fixed inbox...
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