Ditto, can't wait to see you go faster. Will be pretty cool to see the differences in power and boost over the hybrid if your keeping the same turbo.
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Ditto, can't wait to see you go faster. Will be pretty cool to see the differences in power and boost over the hybrid if your keeping the same turbo.
When the engine was put back together, I changed one of the drain back hoses to try and clean things up a bit. It cleaned things up but in hindsight may have been a contributor to the failure. Instead of running downhill right out of the head, it was heading horizontal for a section of the run.
Those sorts of self inflicted sabotage sure take the fun out of racing. You wouldn't believe the stupid mistake I made assembling my new engine. Good thing I was working the bugs out at the local airport before I took it to the track. I caught the problem before it self destructed(and it would have been catastrophic):yuck:, I guess that is why I test.
I will be pulling the head off this weekend, still plan on racing this year though.
Hope to see your car running again Brian.
Ditto! :thumb:
For what its worth, the stock 2.4L pump and ATI damper *knocks on wood* have held up OK in mine... I have a billet gear that I never put in and not sure if I want to even touch it now *cringe*
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Glad you caught it!
Any change you cane make it out to Norwalk in September? its a VERY nice track...
Not a whole lot to report as of late. I did manage to make the filler neck for it though. Slowe and steady ;)
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=52375&stc=1http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/at...id=52374&stc=1
I love seeing your work of art...
Looks fantastic.
I may have to add "NSFW" to your plog.
Fapworthy.
Brian, Do you offer welding lessons? were do we sign up?
I don't think I would want to pay what that looks like that costs. How mirror image is the 420a? Looks like the same spot I need an adapter but I need it on the intake side.
I've been thinking about traction bars for my Daytona this winter.
Since yours is the only TM with them, I have a couple of questions for you:
1. Why 2 wheels, and why wide? I was thinking of a single wheel. In my class, I'm limited to 4' behind the rear axle, or to the rear bumper, whichever is longer. So, I can't have bars that long. Also, mine has to be mounted to the rear axle.
2. Did you notice any better consistency in your short times? That's mainly what I'm after. We're a bit different in that you're going for the ultimate ET, and I'm really bracket racing within NHRA stock class rules...
I hear you on the costs of things to produce. I find myself occasionally fighting the urge to take a shortcut. In the end it just makes for a nicer piece albeit, more expensive.
When I went to put the bars on my car I felt that the 2 wheel wide bar would help out with stability. More of the car touching the ground, and in the groove. Since there wasn't anyone in our community to ask, I decided to take a route that I had seen in place on a number of cars in the Hot Rod class from way back when. In the end, im not sure if there is any advantage over a single wheel.
The length probably has the greatest effect on how the bars make the chassis work but if you're limited, then stay with that. I don't see the bars helping that much if they are to be connected to the rear axle and not the chassis. Since you still have a suspension in between the axle and chassis, I think the car will react just as it does now.
The short times from the first testing day- oct 2012- 1.348, 1.343, 1.387
Short times from a few months prior(sans wheelie bar) 1.52, 1.47
I have only a handful of passes, <6, with the bars on but I think they will ultimately end up making the car more consistent.
I think they can still help if they are axle mounted, but I think the wheel will need to be on the ground while staging to maximize the benefit.
The cat lifts in the front and squats in the rear without a bar.
Are your bars touching from the starting line?
That's a huge improvement in short time, seems very consistent, too.
Did you notice any improvement in your reaction times? That's another area I'm hoping the bars will help. I've found that my R/T is all over the place, just like my short times. Not sure which is the chicken or the egg there...
Does it have to be completely mounted to the axle with no body contact or can half the mounts be on the axle and half on the body? I agree that completely on the axle won't do much. All you get is the angular rotation of the axle vs the shift of the body which when I think about it is actually in the wrong direction. If you are able to connect to both or bend the rules in your favor you could have the action of the body getting closer to the axle pivot the wheels towards the ground. I haven't done an FBD but it would be interesting to compare the two theoretically.
I should touch base with you in a few weeks Brian, work on "this winters project" might be done ahead of time and Andy and I have been discussing working on the getting the chassis done for the Reliant. Initial goals are modest, get the platform sorted out and then start working on getting fresh power out of the 8V SOHC. Doing the math very deep into the 9's is possible, was actually shooting for high 8's before Heather and I parted company.
Spent the last 4 years trying to get caught up on a number of projects and get the house settled, be nice to hit the track again. Even picked up a trailer last year and got the truck sorted out for towing duty.
Gary Donovan
Considering what's been done in the last few years, low 9's or 8's shouldn't be an issue Gary. :thumb: