-
Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
I’m resurrecting a ‘92 Lebaron GTC hardtop, 2.5 T1 with A568 manual and needing some help. This is my first Mopar and being a newbie there’s a lot I don’t know about these turbo 4 cylinders. I’m familiar with boosted cars in general, but only with GM vehicles so this is a bit different. No flames please – being a GM engineer for 18 years you buy what you design and work on what you know, and having access to all the factory service manuals and tools keeps one from straying too far. So I’m really in the dark on this Lebaron although I’ve surfed Allpar and the 3 big turbo Mopar/Dodge forums for research so far so I’m getting there.
My only real disappointment with all my blown GM cars is that they’re all automatics, and I really missed driving a stick, so this Lebaron should be fun, and the fuel economy of the 4 cylinder is a plus these days. But, it’s got to be the slowest turbo J car ever known to man! This brings up my first couple of questions – where are the timing marks, and how do you change the timing belt tensioner and set the cam timing? I’ve searched the forums for this basic knowledge but haven’t found anything – I think my questions are just too basic.
Initially after I got the car running, the turbo was frozen stuck – wouldn’t turn at all, just a huge exhaust and intake blockage. This was originally why it was truly the slowest turbo Lebaron (might as well just say slowest Mopar) ever known to man. It was like driving with a throttle stop at 20% throttle. It’s a good thing Indiana is totally flat – she wouldn’t run over 50 mph in 4th (2500 rpm) – just flat ran out of air. Putting her in 5th and dropping the rpm to 2000 helped a bit – now she had just a bit more headroom before maxing out the airflow and she could eventually hit about 60 mph.
I drove it to work the next day and after lunch forgot that it literally would barely get out of it's own way and pulled out into traffic on US 31. With a semi barreling down on me I kept her in 1st at WOT and prayed she would pull past 3000 rpm. Well, apparently with repeated temp cycling, exhaust heat and oiling, at about 3500 rpm the turbo broke free! I hadn't hooked up all the wastegate and BOV lines since the turbo was frozen, so she pegged the stock 15 psi boost gauge real quick, but the engine didn't ping (with 87 octane gas) and honestly even at 15 psi the power wasn't impressive at all. I did manage to stay ahead of the semi so that was enough.
So the little Mitsubishi turbo is free and spinning now, but after studying the hose diagram under the hood and hooking that plumbing nightmare up with all the T's and check valves, I’m only getting about 5 psi boost and it’s still a dog. I have to say (no flames please), that the plumbing on my turbo Buicks is much simpler! I've seen conflicting posts, but I've read somewhere that this '92 SBEC-II ECM (which I understand may be really rare - thus probably hard to find any programming for unfortunately) does limit boost to 5 psi.
I figured if it didn't ping at 15 psi and 87 octane, the timing must be way retarded, so I’ve advanced the ignition timing a bit and it’s better, but the lower end is still soggy and in no way will it even chirp the tires. The throttle response is much better than before - it doesn't lay down after each shift now, but I still don't think it's where it should be even at 5 psi. Now it’s idling at between 1200 and 1400 so I’m sure the timing is advanced too high, although I don’t understand why the idle air control circuit can’t compensate and bring the idle down. I would think I have a leak and it’s getting excessive air, but the vacuum is good (15 psi or more) and I don’t hear a leak.
One of the things I don’t know is how to actually check the timing. I’ve a friend at work here that’s a Mopar guy currently heavy into the Mitsubishi 3.0L on the TD forums. He’s pointed out that the timing indicator is on the flywheel. I’ve found a small window (had a piece of foam plugged in the hole) in the bellhousing and see the flywheel teeth through it, but I see no markings or a scale. Looking at the flywheel through the timing light, I think I see a timing mark on the flywheel but it’s jumping around – I assume because it’s under ECM control. I was told to unplug the coolant temp sensor to make the ECM go to base timing, but I can’t find the sensor for the ECM (found the one to the dash). So where’s the scale to line the flywheel timing mark up against? It should be at 12 deg BTDC, but I don't know where to line up the marks to read it.
The timing belt tensioner is making quite a bit of racket, and we thought maybe the cam timing is retarded, giving me poor bottom end, so I thought I’d check this when I changed the tensioner. Any hints on changing the tensioner or setting the cam timing?
I’ve got lots more questions, but this post is way too long already. I’ll ask more later! Thanks for any help y’all can give on these 2 immediate issues.
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
First off, Welcome to the forum!
Sounds like your headed in the proper direction by going after the timing.
For ignition timing there is a mark on the flywheel and there should be increments cast into the bellhousing right where you removed that plug from. 0 deg is typically the front edge of the hole in the bellhousing and 14deg is the beck edge of the hole. The coolant temp sensor you need to disconnect is located in the thermostat housing on the drivers side. It should have two wires leading into it. On your car the coil may be in front of it.
The 90-92 cars do have a very complicated vacuum system, so you have every right to be confused about that. Stock boost should be in the 7-10psi range. 5psi is more typical of a car where the wastegate actuator is connected directly to a boost/vacuum source and is not being computer controlled.
I would start with the cam timing and work from there since any changes you make there will probably alter the ignition timing anyhow. Check out the following site for instructions: http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/enginetiming.html
Russ's minimopar site linked above and Gary's www.thedodgegarage.com are both great references.
Once you've got the bugs worked out if the stock boost isn't where you would like it a simple manual boost controller should work for you. Without an intercooler it should still be safe to run about 12psi which shold be enough to have you laying rubber at will.
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
think there are only 3 big vac lines :intake to map,fuel pressure regulator,and waist gate, and then little ones like T into waist gate line for boost controller and gauge and such im shur im missing something though, and someone will correct me. ( get a distrabution block for vac lines and delete others)
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Thanks for the warm welcome to the group, and the links to Russ's site. I did find his site before but somehow my surfing didn't lead me to those timing belt pages.
I did find the coolant temp sensor hidden behind my coil as TurboDave said it would be. My buddy Ed has older cars where apparently the coil is mounted on the fender, so he missed seeing the sensor on mine. I'll unplug it and clean the bellhousing off with some degreaser to find the timing marks and set the timing with a light.
I did not understand what Turzbo meant by a vacuum distribution block, but I looked at Ed's Shadow today and he made one so now I understand. I actually had to use Shoe Goo to repair my factory one as it was torn and not available from the dealer anymore (either that or they wanted an insane amount for it). I see that a distribution block is the way to go.
I'll be checking the timing belt and tensioner this weekend and looking for a air leak - either that or cleaning my IAC and throttle body to try to get my idle back down to normal. Hopefully I'll get these engine things squared away and start tackling all the other things that need repair!
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Welcome, welcome, welcome. I can only guess you work for Delphi. I worked there for 3 years. I spent most of my time in the validation group at Touby Pike and then at Plant 10 (not near enough time at Plant H). I could see that my job was about to go to Mexico (and it did shortly after I quit) and combined with my previous experiences with bad management at Pratt & Whitney, I decided to go back to school for my Ph.D. in business so maybe I can train some of the new people coming out of school how to actually think. I can only hope I'm successful.... less I digress.
Timing belt tensioners tend to make too much noise when over tightened.
Avoid Button Dodge like the plague. They don't know $hit, won't look anything up, and over charge. Amazing that Kokomo has such a bad Dodge dealer. The dealership in Noblesville was pretty good when I was there. There were guys working the parts counter that would 1) look stuff up, and 2) enjoyed anything with a performance orientation.
High idle can indicate a vacuum leak. Check, check, double check, and recheck your double check to make sure you don't have one.
I've been a Mopar guy all my life... too bad my Mopar friends in Kokomo are all into the old school stuff or I'd have some suggestions on who to talk to.
I don't miss much about Kokomo, but going to Bunker Hill every weekend during the summer is one of those things.
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
idle may be caused by off ignition timing, but ther is a way to set it, ther is a set screw on the tb, but u have to unplug the tps and the master cyl vac line (back of intake on driver side) and ur suposed to do it in a certain order and i think its vac and then tps then set the set screw( ther may be a cover to pry out) and it should be a torx bit this screw is closer to the valve cover side of the tb, You sound smart enough to figer its location out:thumb:
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
thrashercharged
Thanks for the warm welcome to the group, and the links to Russ's site. I did find his site before but somehow my surfing didn't lead me to those timing belt pages.
I did find the coolant temp sensor hidden behind my coil as TurboDave said it would be. My buddy Ed has older cars where apparently the coil is mounted on the fender, so he missed seeing the sensor on mine. I'll unplug it and clean the bellhousing off with some degreaser to find the timing marks and set the timing with a light.
I did not understand what Turzbo meant by a vacuum distribution block, but I looked at Ed's Shadow today and he made one so now I understand. I actually had to use Shoe Goo to repair my factory one as it was torn and not available from the dealer anymore (either that or they wanted an insane amount for it). I see that a distribution block is the way to go.
I'll be checking the timing belt and tensioner this weekend and looking for a air leak - either that or cleaning my IAC and throttle body to try to get my idle back down to normal. Hopefully I'll get these engine things squared away and start tackling all the other things that need repair!
Sounds like your learning quickly - The coil got moved to the thermostat housing in 91, so there aren't to many turbo mopars out there like that. A 92 GTC coupe with a Turbo 5spd is a rare find.
Also, there are some good guys local to you that are into these cars, not sure when their next gathering is, but I'm sure you would be welcomed. May want to introduce yourslef in this thread: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1172
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Some more quick questions - this is a non-interference engine right? The reason I ask - I'm in the process of replacing the timing belt tensioner - removed it, and had a brain fade and tried to turn the crank to check my cam timing. Of course, without the tensioner, the belt slipped and now it's definitely out of time. Did this about an hour ago, decided it was time to quit and get some sleep before I screwed something else up.
I see from the writeup on Russ's site about lining up the marks on the crank sprocket and the sprocket next to it, I guess that's the balance shaft? So can I turn the crank without worrying about smacking the valves? I'm still not quite sure how the cam should be lined up - something about getting 2 holes straight up (to the head, the engine is set at an angle) and they should line up with some casting marks on the valve cover? I suppose this would be a good time to check the flywheel timing marks and see if they line up to TDC and look at where the distributor rotor points to.
I was a bit confused following the directions on Russ's site, those must be from another vehicle family. I thought I was going to have to remove the motor mount, but it turns out to remove the lower cover half I had to unbolt the alt/water pump/AC comp bracket instead.
My timing belt doesn't look bad, but I was wondering if I should change it anyway. What criteria do you look for to determine if the belt needs replacing? This is the rounded tooth belt.
Ed told me to tighten the belt to the point where I can twist it exactly 90 degrees with my fingers -right?
Thanks for the other responses, I'll respond later - too tired now, gotta get some sleep and get up in 2.5 hours to pick up one of my kids from Camp Buffalo and tow the Boy Scout trailer back and then get them all to the Greentown 4H county fair!
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Non interference.
The sprocket next to the crank sprocket is for your intermediate shaft. It drives your distributer and oil pump and must be timed as well. A general rule of thumb for it is to pull the distributer and turn the intermediate shaft until the slot in the distributer drive is parallel with the block.
The balance shafts are driven by a chain from the crankshaft which can't be seen without removing the oil pan and won't be affected by the timing belt.
For lining up the cam, line the two marks on the cam sprocket up with the parting lines between the first cam cap and the head.
I'd go ahead and replace the timing belt while you're that far into it. For no more than they cost, it's cheap insurance against getting stranded along side the road.
There are some pretty good illustrations on Gary's site that should make things a little easier.
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/timing_belt.html
Hope This Helps,
Tony
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Ive found it's much easier to set the cam timing with a drill bit. Find a drill bit that fits in the elongated hole in the cam gear. Then get the cam gear pretty close to straight up. Now set the plastic timing cover back over the cam gear with the little plastic plug pulled out. Install the drill bit in the elongated hole in the cam gear and get the drill bit centered in the hole in the timing cover. Make sure you have the valve cover bolts installed with the top nuts off so the upper timing cover sits at the correct level. This is by far the easiest way I've found to do it and know that its right. You just can't see those parting lines on the head when the engine is in the car. The 1990 up A523 and A568 dont have the timing numbers cast into the bellhousing for some reason, but the 1989 and older cars all do. I think the reason you didn't need to remove the motor mount is that they changed the design in 1990 to a different mount. It seems like most people on this site have 89 and older cars so they don't know all the finer points of working on the newer ones, especially the 91-92 8valve cars since they were so rare. Is your 92 Lebaron coupe a GTC? Any pictures, I was beginning to think that 91-92 Lebaron turbo coupes didn't exsist.
Thanks,
Ben Huebner
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
I would replace the timing belt, they stretch over time and can make getting the tension set correctly a real pain in the butt. When they get stretched out you will run out of adjustment on the tensioner, and the belt will always be loose.
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Thanks for the warm welcome to the group and all the advice. I'm about to head to the shop and finish up, it's hard to get time to work on my stuff with the kids and everything else going on. Sometimes I'm amazed at all the time I had before kids to get my things done, and to think I thought I had no time back then!
To answer Chilort, the ex-Delphi engineer who wisely bailed just in time before the entire auto industry sank into a tailspin and is now apparently in Atlanta in grad school (at Georgia Tech I presume) - yes, I work at Delphi. I'm from the south actually, lived all my life south of the Mason-Dixon line - it's a different world down there isn't it? Only moved to Indiana about 20 years ago because Delphi, at that time called Delco Electronics and part of GM, was hiring. Those really were the good old days. Sounds like you worked here more recently in the past few years, so you missed the days when we were GM and when the entire auto industry was still doing relatively well, when we had a large motor pool and could check out company cars for weekends, vacations, etc.
I was lucky to work away from management and all the politics for the most part - I worked as a spark and spark control calibration engineer and spent most of my time with a team of GM Powertrain calibrators out of the office in the engineering development vehicles at the proving grounds or on drive trips around the country or on chassis and engine dyno cells doing the calibrations. Had a lot of fun and worked with a lot of really talented guys, had a blast on drive trips especially with the camouflaged cars and trucks. Got a chance to work at some really cool dyno facilities and learned a lot.
Because I've worked on so many GM products and with so many talented GM guys (and gals), I'll apologize in advance if I slip up sometimes and sound too GM biased but I'll try my best not to, I know there's talented engineers at Chrysler, Ford, etc. yes, even at the imports overseas - we have to admit, their stuff is really well engineered for the most part. Actually, the current LS3, LS7 spark calibrator is an ex-Chrysler guy, and one of the old-timers was an ex-AMC guy. These days especially, most automotive engineers have worked for several companies and/or competitors so that's pretty normal.
Thanks for the warning about Button Dodge. I take it you don't know that they were bought out by McGonigal's Buick/GMC, who also bought out Kokomo Chrysler, and they're now located in the old Weise Oldsmobile building? Their prices are still high. I checked into caliper brackets for 11" rotors - $300 each from Button. I've a question about 11" brakes for this car, but I'll put a post in the brake section about that. Also needed grommets for my shift cables, but apparently you have to buy the entire cable - also about $300 each from Button! Looks like I'll be making another trip to Ray's Salvage yard.
I enjoyed going to Bunker Hill Dragstrip back before I had kids too, especially in the days it was a 1/4 mile track instead of the 1/8 mile track it is now.
Here's a pic of one of my shifter cable grommets:
http://thrashercharged.com/images/ca...le-grommet.jpg
and the other that's totally missing:
http://thrashercharged.com/images/ca...e-grommet2.jpg
I didn't want to complain before in fear of sounding biased, but I always thought the shifter was the mushiest and sloppiest I'd ever felt. I just thought it was supposed to be that way, but now I see why! 4th sometimes would grind, and I sometimes have trouble getting 1st. Sometimes I have to shift into 2nd and then push into 1st. So I'm hoping fixing these grommets will fix these issues too, but if not, I suppose my syncros could be going out.
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Chrysler doesn't sell the shifter bushings, but there are other options besides replacing the cables. The first gen neons use similar bushings and there are replacement polyurethane bushings for them that work perfect on the 90-94 fwd mopars. A set of new bushings is usually in the $25 ballpark, and I know fwdperformance.com and turbosunleashed.com usually have them in stock.
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
I already knew you weren't in management at Delphi: you actually know how to work on a car.
Button Dodge is why I quit going to dealerships unless I absolutely had to go. I grew up in a small town along the Ohio river in southern Indiana with a good dealership. I was shocked to find out the people in the parts department didn't have access to the books and always charged full price.
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Sorry, I just reread your post, and you siad in the first sentance that it's a GTC. Anyways, you can ask your brake question here, we don't mind.
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Thanks again for all the help everyone! Got the timing belt tensioner replaced, set cam and ignition timing to spec. Haven't driven her yet (too late) but she idles smoother and at a bit lower RPM - around 1150-1250 - still a bit high it seems. What RPM should the idle be? Checked for vacuum leaks but don't find any, of course with the mile of hoses I may have missed some, but I don't hear one.
The old tensioner didn't really seem all that bad, just a slight amount of slop in the bearing and if you put it to your ear and spin it, it makes a bit of noise, but not enough that I'd think it would cause any problems. But, replaced it and my groaning timing belt noise is gone, so it just goes to show that it doesn't take much wear for something like that to be really bad under load.
I ended up not changing the timing belt because I couldn't get the motor mount off. The old belt is a Goodyear Gatorback and looks to be in good shape anyway. I only used about half the range of the tensioner, actually I'm surprised at how loose the belt is, but I'm able to twist the belt almost exactly 90 degrees with my fingers (on the tensioner, or loose, side) which is what my buddy Ed suggested. He and Chilort both mentioned that if too tight, the belt or tensioner would make noise. I had it bit tighter at first and loosened it a tad and it does seem even quieter, but it sure seems loose. Put it this way, if I hadn't been advised against it, I would have assumed it should be a lot tighter than this (and been wrong!).
Here's a photo of the engine mount that didn't come apart like I'd expect it would when I removed the 3 bolts at the arrows. The bolt connecting the 2 pieces of the mount is mostly removed. The 4th arrow shows the AC/Alt bracket I did have to move to get the lower dust cover off
http://thrashercharged.com/images/ca...otor_mount.jpg
Here's a photo of the AC/alt bracket I did have to move slightly to get the lower dust cover off. I put the engine support on thinking that once I unbolted the motor mount, the 2 pieces would separate and the engine would drop, but they never separated.
http://thrashercharged.com/images/ca...lt_bracket.jpg
The timing belt looked fine so I was too lazy to struggle with figuring out how to remove the motor mount. I figured if I had to pry the thing apart, it'd just be that much harder to put it back together so I just left well enough alone.
Here's another pic of the timing belt installed with new tensioner, and the AC/alt bracket moved out of the way. You can see the bolt immediately to the left of it that it should hang on.
http://thrashercharged.com/images/ca...t_no_cover.jpg
And here's the cover installed and the AC/alt bracket reinstalled. You can see the motor mount directly above the cover didn't need to be removed.
http://thrashercharged.com/images/ca...lt_covered.jpg
Hopefully I'll get the chance to stop by the salvage yard tomorrow to find some shifter bushings. With the cam and ignition timing straightened out and some shifter bushings installed, she should drive like a different car!
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Oh - I didn't see the latest response before I posted my latest. Thanks for the tip about the solid poly shifter bushings. Do the solid poly bushings make that much difference over the stock ones with the little holes in them? Guess I'm asking if they're worth changing out to later. I'll see what they have at the salvage yard first rather than order and wait for them to get shipped since I may need to make a trip to the Chicago/Rockford area in the next few days and would rather drive the Lebaron over my diesel truck (sorry - Duramax, not Cummings) for the fuel savings!
Also I need to find a parking brake cable too. Here's what I need:
http://thrashercharged.com/images/ca...rake_cable.jpg
That photo actually makes the paint job look good - amazing how misleading digital photos can be! That cable is the piece in the center console that attaches between the handle and the left and right cable going out under the car. Since it's broken, I guess I'd better check the cables under the car and the parking brakes themselves as something might be frozen. These rear disk brakes are the kind where the parking brake is actually a drum brake inside the hub of the rotor, right?
Topdollar69 - you're correct, my bellhousing timing marks aren't marked - they're just lines cast in, no numbers. I just assumed that they start at 0 and go in 2 deg increments. Actually I had some problem even finding the marks at first, I didn't realize they were deep inside the window.
And you're right, I'm finding out this car really is quite rare. According to this web site:
http://www.pbase.com/rmscott/lebaron_conv
it's one of only 25!
I emailed the guy and he's said he got his info from Chrysler Historical Society or something like that. It's no wonder you haven't seen many 91-92 Lebaron turbo coupes! I'll try to dig up some photos of the whole car, I think I took some awhile back. Just recently I've only taken photos of various parts but not the whole car.
Unfortunately, this one hasn't been taken care of in any stellar way. I don't know much of it's history, but it looks like it's been in Indiana all it's life as it has a Lafayette dealer decal. Original engine ventilated a piston so it has a junkyard engine in it now, I believe from a Daytona, although I do have the original engine on a pallet. Clutch was shot, lining gone and rivets on pressure plate. Throwout bearing noisy. Brake rotors were original with 112K on them. Turbo seized as I'd noted in my first post. Shifter bushings missing. Muffler rusted off some time ago, but the turbo and cat keep it fairly quiet so I won't bother doing anything with that - saving for that 3 inch.
Body wise, it has some rust but I've seen worse. For a midwest car, it's not all that bad, but the drivers side rockers need replaced. If it were a non-turbo car, I wouldn't be messing with it - easier to just find a rustfree one instead. But being a turbo manual, and especially finding out it's 1 of 25, it's worth saving. Here's a photo of the rocker.
http://thrashercharged.com/images/ca...gtc/rocker.jpg
Yes, that's a rust hole at the front. Do 93 and newer rockers interchange with this 92? I can find some of the newer Lebarons in the yard, the ones that don't have the hidden headlights, but I haven't seen any of the older ones. What about rockers from a Daytona? I haven't found any aftermarket body panel manufacturers stamping replacement rockers for these cars. The demand must not be there I suppose.
http://thrashercharged.com/images/ca...arter_trim.jpg
http://thrashercharged.com/images/ca...oor_handle.jpg
I'm also needing the left quarter panel trim and right door handle, and the rear window metal trim. Again, do the 93 - newer pieces fit? Anyone have these parts (preferably in the right color) for sale?
Oh - as for my brake question, I've posted it in the Brake section but this is basically what I said:
The car has 112K miles and still had the original rotors - I know because both sides still had the factory retaining clips and were paper thin and warped like you wouldn't believe. Strangely though, the pads seemed relatively new - why someone would change the pads and not replace the rotors, especially in the shape they were in, I don't know.
Being a GTC with factory 16" rims (205-55-16) and rear disk brakes, every parts store and even the dealer said it should have 11" rotors, but they're only 10.25". So what's the deal? Was 11" rotors a separate option? Apparently there was both a "Sports" and "Performance" suspension option for this model - which was the better one (better meaning more geared for handling) and how can I tell what I have? Is there an RPO code I should look for? Actually, maybe I should ask first, does Chrysler have different codes for various options, and are they printed on a sticker somewhere?
Since I don't have 11" brakes, what's the easiest (and cheapest!) way to put them on? I think it would be minivan brakes, right? Do all minivans have the large brakes (i.e. which ones should I look for in a junkyard?), and what parts doe I need from the donor? I'd guess the minivan would have needed 15" wheels at least. Rotors I'd obviously buy new unless the donor ones look really good. Calipers I could turn in as cores. I know I'd need the caliper brackets. What about the master cylinder? Anything else? Note I already have rear disks.
Thanks again for the advice!
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Sounds like you got the timing belt on just right. With top cover off, the timing belt should ride in center of the cam gear. Or at least that's what I've been told. Mine doesn't walk around while I'm watching it, but sometimes when I'm working on the car I will see that it is closer to one side than the other then it will switch.
You might want to consider http://www.pullapart.com. The nearest location to you is going to be Indy (Lafayette is not the Lafayette you are hoping for). I've had quite a bit of good luck there and they say they can get cars for you (though I've never made a request).
As for the brakes .... too new for me. I'm still running drums on the back of the Daytona. People do the dumbest things thought. I had a wheel cylinder fail on my '68 Sweptline (on the rear, I'd already converted the front to disc). When I pulled the drums the drums were totally shot. Someone had let previous set of shoes wear down to the rivets and let the rivets eat into the drum. They then just replaced the shoes. Of course, the huge groves in the drums ate the new shoes for breakfast. I thought I was in for an inexpensive wheel cylinder replacement ... nope. Though the truck is kind of funny. If the part is at all interchangeable with a muscle car, I can get it with no problem. Otherwise, the parts are even tougher to get then stuff from turbo Mopars.
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
I've seen it where people have replaced the 11 inch rear vented rotors with solid 10 inch units. Since you mentioned the factory clips though, that really throws me off. Could you snap a picture of the front and rear brakes for us? The option tag should be on the radiator suport or around there somewhere. Its about 3 inches by 2 inches and has the vin number along with all the 3 digit option codes.
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
After looking your pictures over again I can see the fender tag on the RH side of the radiator suport. If your timing belt is a goodyear, it has been replaced so no need to worry about that. The poly shifter bushings are much much better than the mushy factory ones. I tried several times to remove the factoy ones, and you just can't do it without wrecking them. Here is a link to the ones you need. It takes about 20 minutes to install them on the engine side, but i would do both ends for a nice firm feeling shifter.
http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/prod...roducts_id=275
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
>I've seen it where people have replaced the 11 inch rear vented rotors with solid 10 inch units.
Why would anyone want to do that? Shouldn't it be the other way around?
>Could you snap a picture of the front and rear brakes for us?
Sure, no problem. I forgot to snap a pic of the options tag though, I'll get one later. It's really rusty for some reason and hard to read though.
Here's the fronts, note the rotor and calipers are new (calipers were frozen - they wouldn't press in to accommodate the thicker new rotors)
http://thrashercharged.com/images/ca...kes_front1.jpg
http://thrashercharged.com/images/ca...kes_front3.jpg
And here's one taken farther back for scale - you can see these are the smaller 10.25".
http://thrashercharged.com/images/ca...kes_front2.jpg
Here's the rears, with one taken farther back too. The rotors and calipers were not changed on the rear - they seem to be working.
http://thrashercharged.com/images/ca...akes_rear1.jpg
http://thrashercharged.com/images/ca...akes_rear2.jpg
http://thrashercharged.com/images/ca...akes_rear3.jpg
You can see the missing muffler in the last photo.
Just curious, why exactly do you want photos of the brakes? Is there something in particular you're looking for?
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
WELCOME TO THE CLAN This maybe your chance to defect!!!
The best shifter bushings are homemade. 5/16 stainless washers, teflon, or delrin faucet washers from Home Depot.Sandwich the teflon with the stainless. Standard 1/4 in, "E clip".:D
Try www.Rockautoparts.com, or Raybestos website for the brakes. Lots of different brake combos to choose from on these cars.:confused:
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
thrashercharged
.,.. being a GM engineer for 18 years you buy what you design and work on what you know, and having access to all the factory service manuals and tools keeps one from straying too far....
My only real disappointment with all my blown GM cars is that they’re all automatics, and I really missed driving a stick, so this Lebaron should be fun, and the fuel economy of the 4 cylinder is a plus these days. But, it’s got to be the slowest turbo J car ever known to man!
So the little Mitsubishi turbo is free and spinning now, but after studying the hose diagram under the hood and hooking that plumbing nightmare up with all the T's and check valves, I’m only getting about 5 psi boost and it’s still a dog. I have to say (no flames please), that the plumbing on my turbo Buicks is much simpler! I've seen conflicting posts, but I've read somewhere that this '92 SBEC-II ECM (which I understand may be really rare - thus probably hard to find any programming for unfortunately) does limit boost to 5 psi.
I figured if it didn't ping at 15 psi and 87 octane, the timing must be way retarded, so I’ve advanced the ignition timing a bit and it’s better, but the lower end is still soggy and in no way will it even chirp the tires. The throttle response is much better than before - it doesn't lay down after each shift now, but I still don't think it's where it should be even at 5 psi. Now it’s idling at between 1200 and 1400 so I’m sure the timing is advanced too high, although I don’t understand why the idle air control circuit can’t compensate and bring the idle down. I would think I have a leak and it’s getting excessive air, but the vacuum is good (15 psi or more) and I don’t hear a leak.
One of the things I don’t know is how to actually check the timing. I’ve a friend at work here that’s a Mopar guy currently heavy into the Mitsubishi 3.0L on the TD forums. He’s pointed out that the timing indicator is on the flywheel. I’ve found a small window (had a piece of foam plugged in the hole) in the bellhousing and see the flywheel teeth through it, but I see no markings or a scale. Looking at the flywheel through the timing light, I think I see a timing mark on the flywheel but it’s jumping around – I assume because it’s under ECM control. I was told to unplug the coolant temp sensor to make the ECM go to base timing, but I can’t find the sensor for the ECM (found the one to the dash). So where’s the scale to line the flywheel timing mark up against? It should be at 12 deg BTDC, but I don't know where to line up the marks to read it.
I’ve got lots more questions, but this post is way too long already. I’ll ask more later! Thanks for any help y’all can give on these 2 immediate issues.
WOO-HOO another GM man. These guys are a tough lot here... They drink at MaMopar's nipple and absolutely detest anything but ChryCo's. I see you are in Kokomo. I am in Westfield so a trip up there might be in order. However, be warned, while I do know quite a bit about TD's, everybody that even comes close to me has their TD die rather quickly. I am the TD virus...
Now, with that being said and out of the way, I would recommend talking to a guy of the forums here named "Fleck." He's a die hard Mopar man, so you have to watch your tongue, but, he definitely knows his way around a TD. I would start there and see if he could swing by one day. Again, I'm not opposed to coming out and helping too, but the real secret is do you want me too? ;)
Now after reading the post and hearing your credentials, you can surely follow along fairly easily. If the turbo "broke free" it likely has rust issues and it will be very difficult to release any real potential with it "binding" at all. Secondly, unlike a TB(Turbo Buick) the Map sensor totally rules this car and everything runs off of set tables. On a GM we know that the MAF is king. These cars are easily reworked and the process to do any engine management changes is all very simple compared to a GM, IMO. A pinhole vacuum leak on these cars can be a nightmare as it it will almost ruin any driveability/reliability. Also, unlike a GM you have to quadruple check all your grounds 150,000 times. For some reason(cost probably), Chryco liked to use TONS of splices for their circuits. I will say one thing, There are very few wires to trace in a TD, BUT, it you have a short or ground, you better take the week off work to chase them down. A short in the turn signal might make your AC "blow up." :D(j/k)
There are a ton of things you learn as you go, but obviously you know this can be a "reasonably quick" car, but I would definitely not put it in the same playing field as even a stock GN. Your car is very very rare and given that it is all original(still had the original foam in bellhousing). I would make any changes easily reversible. Now, with that being said, I would say you can make it a mid 14's car with some work. It is probably stockish around the low to mid 15's. Anyway... feel freee to PM me for more info and a contact number and I'll do my best to at least get it close to "stock." Any performance mods typically add a new "twist of events," but before you do anything, we have to get it dialed in right... ;) :nod:
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Welcome to the board!
I have a modded 92 gtc convertible 5spd. I believe the engine you have is the high torque 2.5. With the ABS option, the brakes were the 10 inch- anyway this is th case with mine. I replaced the rotors and brakes with some bendix platinums(maybe) and the brake pads came with the clips and shims to adjust clearance between the brackets and pads.
Definetly look into the poly shifter bushings. Good luck on your project, you picked a good car to save and enjoy. :thumb:
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
The fact that the car has ABS might be the clue as to why it has the smaller disk brakes. My friend Paul has a 92 GTC turbo A568 convertible without ABS, and I'm not 100% sure but I think it has the larger 11 inch rotors.
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Yes, welcome! And once you get it running good, you need to put an intercooler in there!
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Yep - I've been a faithful GM man but coming to the dark side (being pushed and dragged by $4.20 gas!) Thanks for the heads-up concerning the electrical and the sensitivity of this speed density system to vacuum leaks 88_pacifica. Could this be why my windshield wipers will swipe a few times almost every time I start the car? At first I thought this was a feature - just to clean your windshield of rain, dew, or whatever, but sometimes it doesn't do it, and sometimes it'll swipe several times before stopping so I figured it wasn't a feature after all.
The ABS light sometimes will come on, sometimes not, but the airbag light is always on so it must be in-op. Same thing with the Driver Information Center (DIC) (don't know what Mopar calls it, at GM we call it a DIC, pronounced the way it's spelled - it's the computer below the radio that gives fuel economy, miles driven, miles left, temperature, etc.) Mine comes on when it wants to but mostly stays off, but always tells me the temp is -30 degs and need calibrating. Any idea how to calibrate it?
So 88_pacifica - why exactly do you have a GN with the words Turbo Mopar in your sig? That's funny (well - at least I think so, don't know how anyone else here feels about that!) So do you have a GN or turbo Mopar, or better yet both? We'll have to get together sometime.
My goal with this car is to take care of the rust and get it painted (same color) stock wheels, leave it stock interior and exterior, and use it as a DD except for winter - I don't intend on anymore salt or snow/ice - I've enough winter beaters to drive. I'll get it running right first and probably leave it alone for awhile (too many other projects) and start modding it slowly as I've a lot to learn and more research to do. I tend to like to leave things stock for the most part for durability and upgrade to the best the factory had to offer (11" brakes, Shelby suspension parts, etc.) I'm thinking a Garrett turbo of some sort and a front mount someday. Nothing too radical, I want to maintain good driveability, reliability and fuel economy!
The ECMS are old enough that they must use EPROMs don't they? Have people mostly figured out the cal tables and have them floating around on the internet, or are they still a mystery? I've been told my ECM is especially rare so there may be nothing figured out for mine?
I do have the ABS option, so maybe that's why I have 10.25 rotors? The 2.5L I have is the high torque (and low HP) one.
I ordered some poly shifter bushings, just waiting for them to come in. I haven't driven her since I set the cam/ignition timing because of that - too lazy to put the air box back in and connect all the hoses and BOV just to have to take it off again to do the shifter bushing!
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
If you examine your under motor/timing belt pics closely.You'll see the big rusty 18 mm nut that holds the 2 piece motor mount together.:o Be sure to support the engine when removing that mount, to get belt access.:amen:
I see you already have the fancy-shmancy ,blue Fel-Pro $40 oilpan gasket.Apparently the previous owner had the pan off already:nod:
These cars run well all things considered.Just be thorough and patient when repairing or modifying them.
Take Nate,(88pacifica) with agrain of salt.;) He sees the world thru "Buirck goggles":D.
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
:wave1::welcome:
If you'r in Kokomo, our own Fleckster lives there too - He's an engineer for Chrysler, he knows EVERYTHING!!! :D
And has a bunch of these turbo cars.... :nod:
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
thrashercharged
Yep - I've been a faithful GM man but coming to the dark side (being pushed and dragged by $4.20 gas!) Thanks for the heads-up concerning the electrical and the sensitivity of this speed density system to vacuum leaks 88_pacifica. Could this be why my windshield wipers will swipe a few times almost every time I start the car? At first I thought this was a feature - just to clean your windshield of rain, dew, or whatever, but sometimes it doesn't do it, and sometimes it'll swipe several times before stopping so I figured it wasn't a feature after all.
The ABS light sometimes will come on, sometimes not, but the airbag light is always on so it must be in-op. Same thing with the Driver Information Center (DIC) (don't know what Mopar calls it, at GM we call it a DIC, pronounced the way it's spelled - it's the computer below the radio that gives fuel economy, miles driven, miles left, temperature, etc.) Mine comes on when it wants to but mostly stays off, but always tells me the temp is -30 degs and need calibrating. Any idea how to calibrate it?
That's the optional Dodge-Dash-Demon that hides in electrical connections. He's a real biotch to flush out of hiding, but usually when he does it's when you are not even thinking about him or you really DON'T need that to happen at that point in time. ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
thrashercharged
So 88_pacifica - why exactly do you have a GN with the words Turbo Mopar in your sig? That's funny (well - at least I think so, don't know how anyone else here feels about that!) So do you have a GN or turbo Mopar, or better yet both? We'll have to get together sometime.
I have an '87 GN that I drive on occasion. I also have an '88 Pacifica too, but I am not going to be utilizing it anytime soon unfortunately(bad motor- windowed block). It has been a financial drain on me at this point, but some of the issues are not necessarily to be wholly attributed to Ma Mopar... :nod:
Quote:
Originally Posted by
thrashercharged
My goal with this car is to take care of the rust and get it painted (same color) stock wheels, leave it stock interior and exterior, and use it as a DD except for winter - I don't intend on anymore salt or snow/ice - I've enough winter beaters to drive. I'll get it running right first and probably leave it alone for awhile (too many other projects) and start modding it slowly as I've a lot to learn and more research to do. I tend to like to leave things stock for the most part for durability and upgrade to the best the factory had to offer (11" brakes, Shelby suspension parts, etc.) I'm thinking a Garrett turbo of some sort and a front mount someday. Nothing too radical, I want to maintain good driveability, reliability and fuel economy!
That's why I originally migrated over from GM products and went to TD's. I was just not able to effectively "collect" on my investment and the ROI was just pitiful. I have seen it many times. People are either one extreme or the other. Some dump thousands to get a good TD and make it the best they can(me) and others buy a $500 beater and it lasts for literally thousands and thousands of miles. It is truly hit or miss with these cars. I missed.... :( :yuck:
Quote:
Originally Posted by
thrashercharged
The ECMS are old enough that they must use EPROMs don't they? Have people mostly figured out the cal tables and have them floating around on the internet, or are they still a mystery? I've been told my ECM is especially rare so there may be nothing figured out for mine?
They do have EPROMS and most of these cals are socketed and reprogrammed. There is not an aftermarket "chip" per-se, but the tables can be manipulated fairly easily. The vendors and a few select other members are very knowledgeable in this area and offer many options.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
BIGBRUDDA
These cars run well all things considered.Just be thorough and patient when repairing or modifying them.
Take Nate,(88pacifica) with agrain of salt.;) He sees the world thru "Buirck goggles":D.
Very true, but I have had a myriad of issues with TD's which is why I'm a bit jaded... ;) :thumb:
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
>I would recommend talking to a guy of the forums here named "Fleck."
>If you'r in Kokomo, our own Fleckster lives there too - He's an engineer for >Chrysler, he knows EVERYTHING!!! And has a bunch of these turbo cars....
How do I contact Fleck? Sounds like he's a great resource for these cars. I just figured out the guy (I forget his login name here) with the long lost Lebaron Indy Pace Car lives 5 miles from me, and I plan on meeting with him soon.
There's a Mopar event at the Belvadiere Assembly Plant this weekend isn't there? I've some business to take care of in Chicago/Rockford, so I might be there. Is there a place you guys are meeting up there?
>If you examine your under motor/timing belt pics closely.You'll see the big >rusty 18 mm nut that holds the 2 piece motor mount together. Be sure to >support the engine when removing that mount, to get belt access.
>I see you already have the fancy-shmancy ,blue Fel-Pro $40 oilpan >gasket.Apparently the previous owner had the pan off already
Aah - I must have missed that bolt. The engine in the car is a junkyard engine, I think from a T1 Daytona. The oil pan was removed to check the bearings before the engine was installed.
>That's the optional Dodge-Dash-Demon that hides in electrical connections. >He's a real biotch to flush out of hiding
So I take it the advice is to live with my weird wiper swipes every so often when I start the car, and be happy that they'll eventually stop and it's not worse?
>I have an '87 GN that I drive on occasion. I also have an '88 Pacifica too
Ok, this will show my ignorance with Mopar, but I wasn't aware of a Pacifica in 1988. I thought the only minivans were the Caravan and Voyager in those days? I've always thought the turbo minivans were cool, the ultimate sleepers. I've never seen a 80's Pacifica advertised on eBay, ever. Was that Chrysler's version, where Dodge had the Caravan and Plymouth had the Voyager?
>They do have EPROMS and most of these cals are socketed and >reprogrammed. There is not an aftermarket "chip" per-se, but the tables can >be manipulated fairly easily. The vendors and a few select other members >are very knowledgeable in this area and offer many options.
Is there a site on the web where people have dumped the EPROMS and have the binarys available? I guess I'm asking if there's an active group of people exchanging info and figuring out everything about the calibrations for these cars like there is for the turbo Buicks. I know I won't be able to keep my hands off the calibrations for too much longer!
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Ha ... in '88 the Pacifica was not a "mini van" like it "is" today. It was a version of the Daytona. It basically had some different options a body kit. They looked good though.
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
thrashercharged
There's a Mopar event at the Belvadiere Assembly Plant this weekend isn't there? I've some business to take care of in Chicago/Rockford, so I might be there. Is there a place you guys are meeting up there?
Yep there is a Mopar show this weekend and a bunch of us will be there. It's not at the Chrysler plant any longer, but it's not far from there at the Boone county Fairgrounds in Belvidere. Hwy76 just north of Buuisness 20 (State St). I'll be at the show on Saturday and Sunday, with the red 89 Shadow in my sig pic. Saturday evening we'll be hanging out at the Motel 6 in Rockford, look for the goofballs sitting in the parking lot drinking. If you have any other questions there is info about the show on www.chicagolandmopar.com, or you can send me a PM. It would be great to meet you, even if you pull up in a GM product ;)
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
thrashercharged
How do I contact Fleck? Sounds like he's a great resource for these cars. I just figured out the guy (I forget his login name here) with the long lost Lebaron Indy Pace Car lives 5 miles from me, and I plan on meeting with him soon.
Send him a private message and reference this thread. He's an admin/staff on here...
Fleck
Quote:
Originally Posted by
thrashercharged
The engine in the car is a junkyard engine, I think from a T1 Daytona. The oil pan was removed to check the bearings before the engine was installed.
Oh man that sucks. The internals may be different depending on the specifics of the year it's from...
Quote:
Originally Posted by
thrashercharged
So I take it the advice is to live with my weird wiper swipes every so often when I start the car, and be happy that they'll eventually stop and it's not worse?
Electrical demons are always the last thing to chase down if they are not contributing to the motor issues and it's ancillary...
Quote:
Originally Posted by
thrashercharged
Is there a site on the web where people have dumped the EPROMS and have the binarys available? I guess I'm asking if there's an active group of people exchanging info and figuring out everything about the calibrations for these cars like there is for the turbo Buicks. I know I won't be able to keep my hands off the calibrations for too much longer!
Our knowledge base here has some good tables and R&D, You can also talk to Rob Lloyd(ShelGame) as he is always trying to massage the electronics and has contributed heavily to these tables and the database.
Knowledge Center
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Judging by the engine Pics I would say that is definitly a 89-92 2.5L TI. All of the internals were the same throughout the 2.5L TI engine run. One thing you can do to confirm the year of the engine is to check the date cast into the rear of the block near the oil pan on the drivers side. One other thing, the EPROMs in these computers are not socketed like GM computers. The chip is soldered into the board and has a thick layer of potting material over it. As far as I know, no one has pulled a 92 2.5L TI chip and downloaded the binary file from it yet. Check out moparchem.net and the yahoo group D Cal for more info on the computers.
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
The electrical problems your having could be from moisture entering your BCM. It is located in the passenger side kick panel. If you pull it out, open the plastic case and look for signs of water dripping on the PC board.
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Well, thanks to all the help from you guys and those of you I met in person at the Belvidiere Mopar show, I no longer have the slowest turbo Lebaron around! She's running quite nicely now that the cam and ignition timing are set correctly, and she idles just fine now thanks to the guys at the show! I haven't received the shifter bushings yet so the shifts are still a bit sloppy, but she drives quite nicely. She's not a tire-shredding machine by any means, and I haven't driven her all out doing power shifts at redline yet, but I've been pushing her a bit and she's peppy, has good throttle response, handles well and feels really nimble - I haven't enjoyed driving a car like this for a long time. The little Mitsu turbo spools instantly and I've never had a BOV before (turbo Buicks don't have one) - they sound cool.
Now for the bad news. I got waxed - I mean toasted - slammed by an older 4-door Nissan Maxima. Yes, I hang my head in shame. And to top it off, it was right by the Chrysler Transmission Plant too. I typically don't mind getting passed - cars pass me all the time and I don't care when I'm driving my beater, my wife's minivan, etc. The older I get, the more I drive like my dad, especially with fuel prices these days. But, I hate to admit, this kid in the Maxima got to me. Especially when his passenger waved as he went by. Let me tell you, this would never happen in - well, let's just say I'm not used to it (and hope I never do!)
I was tooling around in the country on the county roads, actually coming back from a salvage yard picking up more parts for the Lebaron and having fun and driving a bit aggressively. Not really hard, just spirited driving - going about 75% throttle and shifting at about 4500 or so. For some of you this might be considered your usual I suppose.
I turned right at a stop sign and noticed this kid in a 4 door white and flat black 2-toned import (with the 2-tone running at a racy looking diagonal) with lightweight rims coming to the intersection. I had the right of way so I turned in front of him and continued my "spirited" driving. I notice he's gaining quickly on me in the mirror, and as I slow down for a Durango in front of me, he passes us. Sounded like he was WOT and shifting at redline. I didn't hear a turbo, I believe he was naturally aspirated. Noticed it was a Maxima, I don't know what year but an older one, probably about the same age as the Lebarron. I know he was faster - I don't think the Lebaron had much more to give even if I were pushing her harder, I think the power curve starts leveling off.
He continued speeding along - I didn't really chase, just continued driving the way I was. He passed a few more cars, I didn't, but managed to keep him in my sight, and eventually caught him at a red light after a few miles on the other side of town. I know he was purposely trying to put distance between us, and probably wondering why I was following him but it was pure coincidence that I was going his way as I live on that side (west) of town. I did catch him at the light where I turned and continued west while he continued south.
Anyway, just as I was thinking I was pretty satisfied with the power level for a daily driver, now I need more power 'cause this ain't happening again! I'll keep with the original plan of fine-tuning the stock combo that I have and continue to work on the rest of the car, but I'm going to have to start investigating the EPROM and calibrations and start tinkering with them. Thanks for the info about some possible contacts for people interested in this programming stuff - I didn't realize the knowledge bases on this site had such info!
Again, thanks for everyone's help and it was a pleasure meeting those of you at Belvidere!
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Very true, but I have had a myriad of issues with TD's which is why I'm a bit jaded... ;) :thumb:[/QUOTE]
Yeah! Next time you're around ......please maintain a 10 ft "safety margin" around my car please. Nate:clap:
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
thrashercharged
Now for the bad news. I got waxed - I mean toasted - slammed by an older 4-door Nissan Maxima. Yes, I hang my head in shame. And to top it off, it was right by the Chrysler Transmission Plant too. I typically don't mind getting passed - cars pass me all the time and I don't care when I'm driving my beater, my wife's minivan, etc. The older I get, the more I drive like my dad, especially with fuel prices these days. But, I hate to admit, this kid in the Maxima got to me. Especially when his passenger waved as he went by. Let me tell you, this would never happen in - well, let's just say I'm not used to it (and hope I never do!)
Yep, that is frustrating and those are the times you want the "Corvette Killer..." ;) :thumb:
Quote:
Originally Posted by
thrashercharged
I know he was faster - I don't think the Lebaron had much more to give even if I were pushing her harder, I think the power curve starts leveling off.
I'm sure he had a V6 and while these turbo's have a lot to give and can simulate a 6 banger, the Lebaron is no featherweight to be sure. I would bet that Maxima weighs in almost as much as your Lebaron. Once you get that a little more "performance, you should walk him fairly easily...
Quote:
Originally Posted by
BIGBRUDDA
Yeah! Next time you're around ......please maintain a 10 ft "safety margin" around my car please. Nate:clap:
Actually, I hear that quite a bit. I wish I knew what causes that leperacy... :nod:
-
Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!
Sorry for may late response to this thread but I have been out of town on vacation for a while. (Down weeks at the Plant) I'd be happy to help out with anything I can and get your LeBaron running right. (vacuum line set up, installing the shifter bushings, etc.)
I sounds like (judging by your user name) that you picked up the red '92 LeBaron GTC Coupe that was setting over at Thrasher. I heard about that car setting over at their shop for quite a while. I was told that it was an original '92 Turbo I/5 speed car and that the original engine was toast and it was brought their to have a replacement motor from a junkyard put it. They specialize in the 3800 Supercharged engines and didn't really know or want to work on it so it sat and they were wanting to get rid of it. I never got around to checking up on it and I sure didn't/don't need any more projects of my own!
I hope to have a casual Turbo Mopar gathering at my place in a few weeks to part out a couple GLH Turbo Omnis, maybe install the new transmission in my LeBaron, and anything else we or someone else needs done. I'd be happy to have you and anyone else over. I live just about 2 miles east of Delphi off of Boulevard (100S) so I'm not far away. Let me know how I can help you out and congrats on the purchase and welcome to the Forum and the Community!!!