1. Drivetrain
2. Hybrid Heim Shifter

There are more pictures here, http://minigts.com/car/shifter/ if you are interested to see some other shots. Most are of the connectors and what not.

I also timed myself on this tonight and it took about 1.5 hours to get all the pieces cut off and the new stuff installed. This doesn't count for making the rods, so I would add about another half hour. Also, this is my second set, so prep was quicker as well.

My decision was based on NUMEROUS times of going under the car to replace the starter, fix the oil return line from the turbo or do just about ANYTHING on the back side of the engine and working from the bottom. The idea of the heim-joint setup is rock solid for a shifter that will not disconnect unless of seriously degraded parts, but for me I needed something I could remove and put back without having to worry about wrenches and the lack of space to do anything with them. Therefore, I did some searching and found a thread identifying a company called Midwest Control(s). They offer all types of connectors and rods to create whatever you would like. So after ordering my parts and taking a chance on a specific connector, I was able to put together a full shift kit that replaces the former factory plastic and metal connecting rods and replaces them with quick release connectors.

Here are some pictures of the factory one that is notorious for disintegrating and another comparing it to the new one and the alignment of it.








Here are some pictures of the final parts used minus one of the shifter rods (mainly because I couldn't remember where I placed it before I took the picture) and a close up of one of the connectors.











Here is the parts list. Use the part numbers below to determine which parts you want to use.

• (2) rods, one 8" long and one 12" long
  
• (4) disconnects
  
• (1) spherical rod end
  
• (9) 5/16" washers
  
• (9) Nylon nuts 3/8"-24
  
• (1) 2" 3/8"-16 bolt (Grade 8)
  
• (1) 3/8"-16 nylon nut
  

Midwest Control Parts List

Here are the parts I purchased to put together what I have. This was all ordered from Midwest Control:

• (1) 3/8-16 2" long bolt highest grade
  
• (1) 3/8-16 threaded nut (nylon ends)
  
• (4) SQI375 - Stainless steel quick disconnect (1000lb test rating) I assume this means it takes quite a bit of force or stress to break this unit. It comes with the connector and the ball end.
  
• (1) SSR312-8.00 RH/RH
  
• (1) SSR312-12.00 RH/RH
  
• (9) 3/8-24 threaded nuts (nylon ends) - (4) for the ball end studs, (4) for the connectors (2 x 2) and (1) for the spherical rod end
  
• (1) STM-6 Spherical rod end 3/8-24 thread
  
• (8) 5/16" washers You can use 3/8", but all the 3/8" items will fit through the 5/16" holes, unless I grabbed from the wrong bin. I chose the 5/16" because they were a tighter fit around the studs.
  

McMaster Car Parts List

• (4 )6058K34 Ball Joint Linkage Quick-Disconnect, 3/8"-24 Stud & Shank Thread Size $7.07/ea, Total $28.28
  

Here are those 10mm quick disconnects.

• (4) SQM10 Ball Joint, Quick Disconnect, Metric, Stainless USD $6.87/ea, Total USD $27.48
  

Subtotal USD $27.48
Shipping and Handling USD $14.00
Total USD $41.48




These aren't all the pieces list for McMaster, but it's the thought that counts. If other specific part numbers are available, please send me a PM and I'll add the information to the article.

Please note the information regarding the spherical rod end at the bottom provided by ajakeski.

The end of the shift rod is threaded M10x 1.5.

All you need is to buy a metric heim end. It'll screw right in. No need to tap new threads.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#59935K84

Please note that using the M10x1.5 thread for the heim connector that screws into the rod will not require tapping the end of the shifter. The below was written before this information was discovered.

Tapping the Shifter Rod






My steps were to take the existing arm levers and remove the ball ends with a cut-off wheel, Dremmel or hack saw. Any of these will work fine.






I would use a pilot hole to get a good start with the 3/8" drill bit, otherwise you will have issues with centering the position of the balljoint. The good thing is, if you drill dead on center, it will pretty much just eliminate the original stuff and leave a perfect hole.


Next is to drill out the remaining bits of what's left of the ball ends on the levers. A 3/8" drill bit will do the trick and wollow it out a bit to give that added extra room. This should leave you with 3/8" holes on the two smaller shifter levers, one on the shifter lever connected to the transmission and one on the shift rod connected to the shifter. All of these parts are shown in the picture above.

From here, you take the ball ends that come with the connector pieces (SQI375) and two washers per ball end and simply secure them through the holes in the different levers and the rod.

• One goes into the lever that connects to the transmission.
  
  
• One connects to the lever that has only one.
  
  
• One connects to the other lever that has two, but it goes on the curved arm.
  
  
• The last one goes on the shift rod that connects to the shifter in the car.
  

Make sure to put the ball ends on the CORRECT side. It should FACE the shifter. So the picture is showing it backwards. I found this out before I got everything assembled. Believe me, it won't fit if you do it wrong, so you won't get too far.

The last thing I would do before I re-assemble everything is to spray some rust converter paint on the metal parts (some parts were scarred by the cutting, thereby exposing the bare metal; this should prevent rust in the future). I would also get some lithium grease or some type of grease that is very viscous and apply it in the socket of the connector where the ball end will go. Helps to keep moisture out and also gives it a little lubricant for the rubbing. BTW, I used STAINLESS STEEL parts, so this is just another added precaution.


As far as the rods go, this is a sort of a tough one. You will need to bend the rods to the correct shape. One is pretty easy, as you need only to bend it one time and that on the end. I eyed mine to fit. Not the best way, but it worked. However you do it, it is best to shape the rods AFTER you have the rods off the car. Measurements of both rods from center point connect to the other are as follows:

• One bend rod - 10"
  
  
• Multi bend rod - 10.35" (converts to about 10 5/16")
  

With these rods and connectors you have a little room to play because they are 100% adjustable.

Please give credit to powermaxx for providing the shift rod dimensions!

The OTHER shift rod is a different story. In all honestly, I just used the spare rod I purchased that was the SSR312-8.00. I didn't bend it or anything and it fit find and works fine. Not sure if the rod was for just the TI application or what, but there is absolutely NO clearance problem. IF you want to do it the right way, I have a thread already started on the dimensions:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...421#post193421

Next step is to add a 3/8-24 nut onto the rod with the nylon side away from the connector. This gives a better seat once you tighten things up. Do this for each end of each rod, 4 times total. After each nut is on, connect the rod end connectors. Make sure you have the connectors set for the right direction. This means, make sure the hole or seat where the ball end will sit are aligned correctly. Again, trial by error, but best to do it right on the first try.

Next, re-assemble everything as it was. You can leave the shift rods on or disconnect and attach them after you have everything else secured, doesn't matter.

The last part is to make sure your shifter and settings are all aligned, i.e., the car is in neutral and the shifter is centered in the car. There are guide marks on the shifter underneath the car where it meets the shift rod. As long as your car is in neutral, when you center the marks the shifter should be square inside the car. Again, if you need clarity or help with this, just ask.

The total amount of everything was around $75? From the other who have done this since when I tried it back in 2007?, people have found cheaper alternatives to the ends and rods. The information is provided up top and their comments below.


Information from Chad T regarding other parts that can be used listed at the top.

More information from ajakeski.