help with tu ss header

[turboaddict]

so after sitting way too long ive started working on the shelby again. putting together the head i have run into issues between the header and the 2-piece lower. i had to grind the intake to get it close to fitting , but it still touches in places. now i have to grind the turbo to clear. anyone else had these issues?

[Juggy]

oopps didnt read that properly lol...just assumed


ive had 2 different ss headers and they bolted right on

[Ondonti]

Pictures would help a lot. Otherwise nobody can be sure what you are talking about.

[turboaddict]

bump for pictures!!!

[tryingbe]

You should really contact TU for support for their products.

[Mopar318]

Thats way I built my own.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=36004

[inmyshadow]

Do you have a spare TI manifold to test fit?

I hate to say this, but this is part of the process in using TU products.

From the TU oil pan, TU oil lines, TU coolant lines, TU turbo oil filter, TU T3 turbos, and TU 3in swingvalve all needed extra work for installation.

My last problem was bolting a TU super60 turbo with .63 housing to a TU 3in swingvalve to TU 3in downpipe. It really seems like those three parts were never test fitted together.

[turboaddict]

well the issue is that the turbo was ceramic coated, and to clearance it i will have to grind the coating off. this seems kinda backwards to me.

[Chris W]

My last problem was bolting a TU super60 turbo with .63 housing to a TU 3in swingvalve to TU 3in downpipe. It really seems like those three parts were never tested fitted together.

The tolerances for our SS headers were extremely tight. Each one was hand crafted using a jig. Because of this not everyone was exactly the same. Our main objective was to keep the turbine flange as close as possible to the engine to avoid firewall conflicts with the larger turbos that these headers were designed to fit. In most cases removing some casting was more appealing then denting your firewall in with a sledge hammer.

Flash and core shift is present in ALL casted products including intake and exhaust manifolds. Some factory intakes might have clearance issues while others may not. Because of these core shifts slight clearances may need to be made depending on what the product is bolting up too or next to. We have found that removing a little here and there is not an issue for most enthusiasts and all a part of the installation.

Looking back at the aftermarket headers purchased from companies like Hooker and Headman I remember spending hours and hours first removing the cheap paint they used then port matching everything, going over all the welds and finally applying a quality paint that would last more then 15 minutes. I always looked at those details as part of the hobby and taking the extra steps to port match was what seperated the fast guys from the very fast guys.


In regard to the Super 60, .63 A/R turbine housing, 3 inch swingvalve and downpipe combo. I can only assume you had a problem with installing one of the bolt and spring kit nuts. I agree with you that with certain cast iron turbine housing and SV combinations it can be a little tight. I am the first one to admit that we always overbuild our products for integrity purposes. For example, a factory cast iron exhaust manifold weighs around 8 lbs while our cast iron header weighs over 12 lbs. A factory swingvalve weighs 3lbs 10 ounces while our 3" swingvalve weighs over 5 lbs. We like to make our cast iron products extra beefy to avoid potential failure issues or weak spots. It costs TU 25% to 50% more to cast these products but we feel the extra fees are worth it. Our customers feel the same way because they realize they can now port our swingvalves out much larger then 3". You can also run our header without a turbo support bracket without worrying about issues.

It would be impossible for us to test fit each and every product in every possible combination before it ships out the door. If we did this our costs would go up dramatically.

Chris-TU

[Juggy]

In regard to the Super 60, .63 A/R turbine housing, 3 inch swingvalve and downpipe combo. I can only assume you had a problem with installing one of the bolt and spring kit nuts.

can I ask why you didnt tap the inside hole like the turbonetics 2.5" one?? or would that be some sort of copyright thing? I just welded up some nuts to mine, dont have to worry about trying to hold them in place now

It would be impossible for us to test fit each and every product in every possible combination before it ships out the door. If we did this our costs would go up dramatically.

time is $

[turboaddict]

i am very familiar with the idea of having to clean up a part for final fitment. i just had no idea that the fit would require so much massaging given the description on the tu web page."The TU SS header kit includes all the necessary components and extensions to keep installation simple and hassle free." i didn't know if i had one with stacked tolerances that added up to be more than what was to be expected as far as fit quality goes. hence why i would ask the question in the first place.

[Chris W]

can I ask why you didnt tap the inside hole like the turbonetics 2.5" one?? or would that be some sort of copyright thing?

We could do that. The bad part is that those bolts rust and sheer very easily. That would mean you would have to pull the SV out to drill and repair that tapped hole. If you try to remove the swingvalve instead of the whole turbo you could sheer the turbine bolts also leading to even more of a headache. This is the reason we decided to keep the stock set up.

time is $

As I always say, another day another 1/2 dollar

Chris-TU

[Chris W]

i am very familiar with the idea of having to clean up a part for final fitment. i just had no idea that the fit would require so much massaging given the description on the tu web page."The TU SS header kit includes all the necessary components and extensions to keep installation simple and hassle free." i didn't know if i had one with stacked tolerances that added up to be more than what was to be expected as far as fit quality goes. hence why i would ask the question in the first place.

Rather then grinding off the coated exhaust manifold why aren't you removing the intake casting? This way you don't have to grind off the coating on your exhaust manifold.

Did you purchase this kit directly from TU or through someone else? I never did get your name. Give us a call ......

Chris-TU

Edit: Per your other thread the header was powder coated?? Not sure that will hold up in the exhaust environment.

[GLHNSLHT2]

I just installed heli-coils in my 3" SV, then the bolts screw right in and since they're stainless should never rust to the point of siezing up. If they do I can remove the broken bolt from under the car very easily. It's so nice not to have to deal with that nut and flange setup.

[turboaddict]

also to clarify, header was not powder coated, its just the silver paint that i assume it was painted after manufacture