The Holset he341 3.0L

[Sundance 6g72]

http://www.youtube.com/user/GreatDep.../0/C7-5IfDfLno

he already got it to work well.. seems like hes just having issues with his regulator but what do i know

[Ondonti]

The regulator made a LOT of power on the Duster even after it was modified to deal with the huge fuel system I installed, but its not working with a stock type fuel system. The Duster was running so rich when it tried to spool that i had to part throttle it to over 3000 rpms otherwise it would bog and stop accellerating. I was also running Meth injection but it was not turning on until around 10psi.

Lower altitude...plus something is obviously wrong.
Great power right now on 3 pounds of boost. I don't think this will work because something is wrong with the regulator and I don't think it can be fixed. The tiny seat on the regulator seems to start damaging the shim right away (making circle indents from the almost sharp edges of the seat. The seat used to have 1/8" of flat surface.
Its possible something is just jacked. If i get it fixed and then it fails again, then it was a waste of money to repair.
None of this is a priority, just a disappointment.

If I had a new regulator there would be no problem. $340 dollars to replace it is a huge chunk of change that could go someplace else.
I am not terribly worried about my injectors because I ran the same injectors in a stock n/a motor and got 30 and 31mpg on two separate 900 mile trips (well 31mpg was my original turbo setup plus 3 broken ringlands).

With a stock ECU, stock cams are the best, but if you MS, then why have stock cams. The reason why I like stock cams in a turbo 3.0 with stock ecu is because you can't rev high enough to enjoy the best parts of a cam upgrade. I am really just looking for the HP gains from the cam and not the drivability until I completely give up. I am very stubborn. I ran 125mph on a stock motor (so stock cams) so I know they can make decent power. Stock cam with a smaller Holset will probably make for ridiculous wheelspin problems and then less top end. I was hoping for a happy medium of power and traction.

[Ondonti]

After looking more at the BEGI site, I am wondering if the 90 dollar upgrade will solve my problems.

Reading again and looking at the pics, this newer MR series does not have shims on the Boost side, and the piston is huge. I am sorta guessing the center allen key area actually pushes against the seat on the regulator. I wonder if this would allow my unit to be saved. I guess I still need to pressure test.

[Ondonti]

Hey hey hey, I am trying to be stubborn here. Thats my M.O. FIC would make it easier to keep the stock tach which is the only real thing that would matter to me. I couldn't get the tach to work on the Duster but I think I just had too much wire and the signal was too weak to feed both devices.

The fact is that I don't really want the MS2 to stay on my Duster forever with only 1 functional injector driver. Looking at 1000cc injectors or larger for it. With these cams, OEM seemed to have all the same problems as MS with very little tuning.

And I just want the stupid RRR to work.
---------
Not sure what just happend but I went outside to start the Duster to see how that MS was doing. First start since March I believe. Fired up instantly but I had to hold the clutch in because something is very wrong in the transmission. When I let the clutch out the car is trying to move forward, and when starting it it sorta acts like the same thing but not good sounding. I wonder if the Synchros are being preloaded into one of the gears. The shifter does NOT want to move into 1st 3rd or 5th but I was able to get it into those gears when I turned the car off.

Ahh MS sure ain't bad.

[RoadWarrior222]

With an MS you go from a 100% working vehicle to a 0% working vehicle and then work your way back up.

LOL yup, that's how it seems to me... and that you get 80% the first month sweating your balls off and 1% a month after that

[Ondonti]

Changed the ignition switch. I really don't like this new one. Feels very sticky like it needs graphite inside or something. Started up a few times and it feels like the switch wants to stay in the start position because its so sticky/rough/frictiony. Going to change the AIS motor with the one I removed from a TB this week and cleaned and moly lubed up.

My real problem with the megasquirt is that the harness is setup for the Duster though I was being super paranoid when I built that so I never cut the harness "short" so I used the full length of every wire. I think I have some complication in the cabin though where I wired in the AFR and maybe the clutch switch for the 2 step. Spirit has no clutch switch so I can't 2 step or flatshift.

[Sundance 6g72]

my car in the winter used to move forward in N.. but it was a slight move nothing insane. it never rolled with the clutch out.. i also never heard any noises. the shifting would be hard at first until i got down my road (40 yeard?) and after the car had sat and warmed up. this is the dead of winter (20f ?) otherwise the same tranny works just fine still with my new clutch

[Sundance 6g72]

i say megasquirt because its a standalone and its not exactly new to brent. if i can do it, he can do it a second time. ITs just a matter of $450 for MS or $300 or so for a new regulator.

[Ondonti]

I would steal the MS from the Duster and put MS3 or maybe maybe AEM in the Duster. Those are big costs and means I can't register or drive the Duster anytime soon. If the transmission is broke then I guess it doesn't matter. I will have to remove the cables from the trans and make sure its not something silly.

I just put a syringe onto the regulator and it seems to be working fine. Also put a vacuum gauge on. I don't know how much pressure I applied with the syringe. Don't have any easy way to check because I have no loose pressure gauges. I might roll my compressor out and try to set that super low and see what it reads. I guess I can hook the compressor blowgun outlet onto the boost sensor signal to the Zeitronix in the Duster and get an exact reading, then apply that to the regulator and see what it does to fuel pressure.

[Ondonti]

Nailed it!

Apparently I have been setting the pressure wrong all this time, Or I just forgot how to set things properly since its probably been 4 years since I actually adjusted the base or onset pressures.

When i have no lines attached, the base pressure seems like it can be controlled by both settings. In reality it can't. Once you apply vacuum to the RR section, the additional fuel pressure the spring add's gets dropped back to ZERO.
So hotwired the fuel pump relay, then I put the vacuum gauge back onto the RR side. I then jacked up the fuel pressure with the adjustment. When I put 15" of vacuum on the gauge, the pressure drops back down to base pressure

Going to tool around with it now and maybe go for a drive. I think I will pop in the other AIS motor so I don't forget.

Corky Bell pretty much states that cars will tend to run lean from 4" of vac to 3psi boost when turbo'd like this and since I am running 3psi, I don't think the regulator is doing enough. Thats what the purpose of the onset of boost is. I remember running 9 pounds of boost when I first started the car and it boost creeped and it certainly did not pull like it was super lean.

I can basically mechanically set the fuel pressure to anything I want before any actual boost pressure starts pushing on the diaphram to create MORE pressure. Remember I tried cheating before and upping the base pressure but then my starting issue popped up. Ends up that was just the ignition switch but running 40psi base on 30# injectors is dumb.

I just set the base pressure to 20psi (confirmed by putting 15" of vac on the RR side) and the RR side is at 45psi when out of vacuum. I had both set at 26 after "rebuilding" it so this should make a huge difference. The RR gain valve is completely closed so it should be on MAX rate.

Hope this is the gem that makes me smile.

Going to try 40psi RR side first and go for a drive with G valve in the passenger seat

[Sundance 6g72]

nice! better than buying megasquirt

[Ondonti]

Woo!

New problem. Too much fuel
Replacing the AIS solved my problems too RPMs drop when I let the clutch out so shifting is no longer annoying. RPMs also drop when I push the clutch in with throttle closed.

Transmission lash is bothering me and I don't know if the new ignition switch is happy. I don't want to look at it right now to see if I am still dropping spark after I start cranking. Otherwise I am pretty happy.

I had the RR bleed valve completely closed at first. Ran 10's AFR. I could feel that the car was much slower at mid 10s AFR on 3psi then mid 12's. I then put the Gus valve on and got about 5-6 pounds of boost with how I had it adjusted. Felt very nice. mid/high 10 AFR and then low 11 near redline. I then tried a few times to decrease the rate of gain (bleed) and that did not accomplish much.
Turned the g valve a little more and I guess its 6+ psi boost. Still high 10 AFR and low 11 at redline. I sorta gave up at that point. I had to drive a lot to find places to make any pulls.

I would consider the project a success now, finally.

With the too much fuel issue. I am thinking I need to back off the point of onset. I think 40psi at 0psi is too much. I would just back it off a little, maybe 38psi, then bleed the RR a little more. I am afraid to turn the Onset farther down because I don't know how much 2psi will change things at this point.

[Ondonti]

The idle racket sorta ruins the vid. I should have sat in the car and held in the clutch. Did not take the camera on my drive because I couldn't find my stand.

[shayne]

thats awesome man, im glad your stubborn and persevered through this setup you have. now i can copy it, haha.

[Sundance 6g72]

nice!

[bakes]

try running a MSD with boost retard module

[Ondonti]

Modifying the map a LOT is a wreck. Thats why the people who are good with it run well and everyone else copying them tends to fail. RRR is actually quite a good solution if you change the VE map and rev limiter on the base cal. With a stock cam it would be much better then what I have going on.

[Sundance 6g72]

^ ^ speaking of rev limiter

how happy are these cams being limited to 6000- 6200 rpms? Ed's cams right now seem to love 5000-6500rpms and taper off toward 7000... but i think yours might be a littler more aggressive than his.

to bad the stock limiter is fuel cut, ign cut would be easy to get around you would think.

[Ondonti]

I am just happy to be making use of parts that are worthless from 2005 I honestly would not bother with a cal at this point because I can't stand the runaround, I like being able to rely on something happening.

Dying off near 7000 is what Sunmind said about the similar RPW cams.
These cams Pull just as hard at 7000 at 6000 on stock heads. They are definitely not maximizing my powerband but probably help traction. I do think that since this turbo spools sooner (before the cam gets hot) that it probably hooks up better then the 67mm turbo because it doesn't boost and get hot on the cam at the exact same time (duster has huge torque gain in a small rpm window).
I almost wonder if I should try to just use them again in my Duster but I want another set of cams that are a little better suited for the solid rockers (smaller base circle).

That said, the Spirit needs OBX. I was thinking about putting the Duster's trans in the Spirit but now that it might be broken.....grr.
No 2nd gear traction now. The moment the cam gets hot it revs all the way up. I have only gotten through 3rd a very view times. No chances to have fun.

I can understand now why a lot of people here think their car is fast cause it spins 3rd, then I realize they are peg legging. I never spent much time with an open diff and horsepower combined. I do know that I don't want to lose my diff pin.

[Aries_Turbo]

i moved the AEM FIC discussion over here.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...FIC-Discussion