Seeking Turbo Van Owner Knowledge

[RoadWarrior222]

Pump noise gets higher the more it strains against a dirty filter too.

Yah, I'd love to fit one with a flip up roof too. There was a fullsize van conversion in an old Popular Science I was looking at where they cut a section out of roof, and used some special trim on it, so pop top was original roof panel and sealed... gotta look into that.

[Vigo]

Those 15s would work well and look pretty good too although the bigger the tire the worse the wheels look, generally.


Check out this recent post for an idea of how big you 'can' go and whether you really want to.. heh.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...=1#post1078964

[TopGunRMNP]

Looks like I'll need a 5x114 to 5x100 spacer to make any SRT fitment wheel work? Wouldn't the extra length stress out the suspension, lugs,or tire wear?

[turbovanman²]

I have a set of 15" <http://www.gomiata.com/spedsif215.htm> that I use as winters for my SRT... Looks like they have a 40mm Offset, would these work better? Looks like they stick out a little further than my stock SRT wheels.

Looks like the stock wheels are 35-40mm offset, can't find the exact number. This is a thread on SRT wheel specs.

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f136...-thread-70683/

Looks like I'll need a 5x114 to 5x100 spacer to make any SRT fitment wheel work? Wouldn't the extra length stress out the suspension, lugs,or tire wear?

Why are you talking 5x114? All cars and base vans got the same 5x100 bolt pattern. AWD/factory 15" wheels and 11" brakes got the larger bolt pattern. Some vans snuck out with the larger bolt pattern but its rare.

Spacers are fine when done properly. I have the bolt on type and had zero issues, even drag racing. If you use the loose style, then you need to make sure the studs are long enough.

[TopGunRMNP]

Chatting with another van owner that had to get x114 to x100 spacers he said, to get the srt wheels on. He's a rare example then and I won't need anything special?

[GLHNSLHT2]

if it's a 1990 with 11" fronts you'll need either big bolt pattern (115) wheels or you can get small bolt pattern hubs and bolt those in. Though you'll have big bolt pattern out back and I'm not sure how easy those are to change. 2.216vturbo's (Alan's) van "Whiteout" is a 90 with big bolt pattern.

[Force Fed Mopar]

The factory programming makes it fall on it's face at 4k, not the turbo. All the stock 2.5 boost schedules I've seen drop the boost after 4k.

[TopGunRMNP]

It's a 1989, with I don't know what fronts.

[GLHNSLHT2]

small bolt pattern then.

[TopGunRMNP]

Sweet, i'll be using the winter rims from the SRT then.

New Questions Update:

I do actually like the insta-boost mitsu, but hate that it falls on its face by 4k!
I'm picking up a Garrett T2 + oil/coolant lines & rad /ic from 87 Shelby. The Garrett will go in eventually, but looks like a solid day of work where the head comes off to get back there and replace it all.
1) I'd like to enjoy the max of the mitsu around town until I do so. What should I do, and what is my max with the IC installed?

2) To obtain max from mitsu, then the Garrett... Should I go with a FWDp ECU and which one?

3) If I go with a staged ECU, will I need recalibration when swapping to Garrett eventually?

4) Should I skip ECU and go to G valve and remote fan switch? G valves scare me, seen too many cars die from bad use. How will the van adjust wot fuel if increasing psi via G valve? It will sense via MAP up to 14.xx? Where does a G valveg go anyway?

5) What 3bar sensors do I need?

6) Should I go CAI and point it where in the engine? Should I battery relocate, and how do I do that? I imagine have the CAI face the existing ECU cold hole.

7) When will the 2.5 t1 injectors run out? What to replace with? I can get SRT4 injectors for cheap, I think they are 577cc?

8) What else can you think of to max mitsu, then utilize same hardware for Garrett swap?

9) What are rough power estimates from both turbos and bolt ons?

10) What engine rebuild kit is best, if there is one. Or gasket types and possibly pistons if that day comes?
Thanks everyone, help me make this van a beast!
-Tony
p.s. All I'm looking for is roughly 13.5 1/4 reliably. This van is being converted into a National Park Camper as well.
P.s.s Does anyone have a production number for 89 90 Turbo vans w/ a555? TD.com listing doesn't.

[RoadWarrior222]

Well if there's fuel supply issues, from bad pump or filter, then it will feel more "falling on face"-ey than it should do.

[TopGunRMNP]

Walbro 255 on its way, I hear the whine in the rear and has to be the pump. It's a pita to drop the tank and replace? What's the process / and or / where would I cut a window to access the pump from inside the van? I would just install a door hinge on it and leave it be after. Also, is the walbro a direct replacement?

[RoadWarrior222]

Basically just bolts on the straps and wiggle out the fuel filler, ten to one you need a new sealing donut on fuel filler while you're at it.

How I've done it, is get the van up high, well chocked on good stands, put a block about midway under van, put 2 2x4s resting on it, out the back, put support under the other end. 2x4s, shuld be close under tank ready to catch it, undo rear straps, get it resting on 2x4s with bit of play, wiggle out the filler, disconnect lines... now, get round the back, lower the 2x4s, slide tank out on these rails, tap out lock ring with brass drift, deal with pump, reinstall lock ring, new seal, install new filler donut, slide it back up the 2x4s, get the straps under it jiggle filler back in, reinstall lines, lift 2x4s at rear high again to bring it back to position, should be able to wedge it so the bolts will catch, then just snug it down and that's about it. Unless you wanna spray underseal around up there while it's out or something.

[mopar-tech]

Basically just bolts on the straps and wiggle out the fuel filler, ten to one you need a new sealing donut on fuel filler while you're at it.

Dorman 577-500

[turbovanman²]

Ok, seem to be going around in circles.

If you're taking the head off, braided coolant and oil lines.
3" turbo back exhaust
Stronger clutch and moly plate
Recalibrated computer and I prefer an MBC or EBC. Turbosmart MBC's are good and avoiding boost creep. Cindy sells the 3 bar otherwise any GM type 3 bar works.
Stock injectors are good for around 16 psi with a TII turbo.
If your camperizing it, then a TII turbo probably won't get you in the mid 13's.
Put the CAI in the cold air stream, simple,
Rebuild get, get quality parts, you'll probably have to source each one by themselves-Mopar or Cometic gasket, Hastings/Perfect Circle/Sealed Power rings, Clevite bearings and name brand gaskets. Take apart the stock oil pump and if good, reuse, they are the best pumps out there. I put an MP spring in it to raise oil pressure at higher rpm.
Poly or MP mounts.
Your changing the fuel pump.
If you're taking the head off, get it ported, +1mm valves and I'd get a new intake manifold, port the exhaust manifold and a better cam based on your goals, IE S60 or a TU cam.
+40 injectors, don't mess with other brands, just buy the right ones, they will get you to 350-400 whp safely.
GAUGES-boost, wideband for sure, maybe an EGT.

if it's a 1990 with 11" fronts you'll need either big bolt pattern (115) wheels or you can get small bolt pattern hubs and bolt those in. Though you'll have big bolt pattern out back and I'm not sure how easy those are to change. 2.216vturbo's (Alan's) van "Whiteout" is a 90 with big bolt pattern.

Just swap the drums, I have a set, lol. I parted out a 5 speed 90 Mini and it had the big bolt pattern.

Walbro 255 on its way, I hear the whine in the rear and has to be the pump. It's a pita to drop the tank and replace? What's the process / and or / where would I cut a window to access the pump from inside the van? I would just install a door hinge on it and leave it be after. Also, is the walbro a direct replacement?

You can do the door thing, dropping the tank on our vans is a royal PITA.

The pump is a drop in, if you have a damper-its a device between the pump and sender, delete it. Also, go buy the proper rated intanke hose, the supplied stuff with the Walbro is junk.
Napa carries it, SAE 30R10 is the rating.

[TopGunRMNP]

Thank you good sir! I suppose in circles isn't the way to put it, but realizing I want to do it right when I get to building the van, so for right now I'd like the safest fun possible on the mitsu.

ie: 3" TBE (anyone have a preference of type, are there types with resonators etc, or just custom one and it sounds good when raw), then G valve or get an ECU now while mitsu, then would I have to get a new cal when Garrett, or just have it retuned?, stock injectors good okay, IC will be going on, and i'll take the stock bov and place in pipe post or pre IC? I imagine i'd have plenty of fun that way for a while, i'll do 3bar's as soon as I can afford (but I should get them before the ECU since it needs to know I have 3bars right?)

Also main leak I see is distributor base, what needs replaced is it an oring?

Thanks again!

[turbovanman²]

Thank you good sir! I suppose in circles isn't the way to put it, but realizing I want to do it right when I get to building the van, so for right now I'd like the safest fun possible on the mitsu.

ie: 3" TBE (anyone have a preference of type, are there types with resonators etc, or just custom one and it sounds good when raw), then G valve or get an ECU now while mitsu, then would I have to get a new cal when Garrett, or just have it retuned?, stock injectors good okay, IC will be going on, and i'll take the stock bov and place in pipe post or pre IC? I imagine i'd have plenty of fun that way for a while, i'll do 3bar's as soon as I can afford (but I should get them before the ECU since it needs to know I have 3bars right?)

Also main leak I see is distributor base, what needs replaced is it an oring?

Thanks again!

If you're planning on rebuilding the engine, install the garrett.

You can buy an FWD or Shelgame computer for the mitsu then have a new chip made when you change things.

I would start with a see thru muffler, then if that's too much, add a resonator. Mufflers are in the 1st or 2nd page IIRC. I think only TU makes minivan kits.

Do don't need a 3 bar computer unless you're going to boost over 15 psi, which the mitsu is only good for a few more psi above that.

[GLHNSLHT2]

3" on a mitsu won't work, the boost will become uncontrollable. 3" on a stock 89 T2 garrett works ok most of the time. Once you drop the ATP SV on one though it'll boost creep till cutout even with the flapper flapping in the breeze even with porting the WG hole.

If you get an ECU and plan on changing your setup around get a flashable setup from Shel-game, learn to do it yourself and go. Messing around with someone guessing at your stuff get's old fast.

[RoadWarrior222]

Also, go buy the proper rated intanke hose, the supplied stuff with the Walbro is junk.
Napa carries it, SAE 30R10 is the rating.

+999 "Immersion rated" if the counter guy needs a prod. Then eyeball it yourself for the SAE 30R10 rating printed on it.

___ ___ ___

Then this might be of interest for figuring a fliptop roof... https://books.google.ca/books?id=Dcn...amping&f=false

cut and paste if forum mangles link

https://books.google.ca/books?id=Dcn...amping&f=false

edit: dafuq? code box doesn't work right, link did though.

[turbovanman²]

Oh, for the dizzy oil leak, it has an o-ring that needs replacing.

3" on a mitsu won't work, the boost will become uncontrollable. 3" on a stock 89 T2 garrett works ok most of the time. Once you drop the ATP SV on one though it'll boost creep till cutout even with the flapper flapping in the breeze even with porting the WG hole.

If you get an ECU and plan on changing your setup around get a flashable setup from Shel-game, learn to do it yourself and go. Messing around with someone guessing at your stuff get's old fast.

Yes it does, I've done it. Customer brought me the brass check ball style, wouldn't hold, it would creep badly. Used the Turbosmart and it held it within 2 psi.