-head bolts- from 10mm to 11mm

[PentastarTurbo]

I'm looking at some 11mm ARP studs from TU for my 85 block (built) but as I was torquing the 10mm head bolts, 2 of the 10 didn't quite grab tension so I figured I'd order up a new headgasket and drill/tap the block for 11mm's..

I also noticed in the FAQ that turbovanman stated I could torque up to 80ft lbs on ARP's for a high boost application, would that help to hold up longer if its not a race vehicle that see's about 12 - 14psi tops?

Any tips or pointers?

thanks everyone

[tryingbe]

In my GLH-T, I had to install the head FIRST than put the studs on.

Or else you have take the front and rear mount mounts off and rotate the engine in order to put the stud in first.

[cordes]

In my GLH-T, I had to install the head FIRST than put the studs on.

Or else you have take the front and rear mount mounts off and rotate the engine in order to put the stud in first.

Yeah, really no different than normal though. Just use a couple of studs made from shortened head bolts and then put the ARP studs in.

[PentastarTurbo]

In my GLH-T, I had to install the head FIRST than put the studs on.

Or else you have take the front and rear mount mounts off and rotate the engine in order to put the stud in first.

Yup.. Thats a given, trying to balance the weight of all that to line it up to guide the head around the bolts is a PITA..

I tried to do this to a bmw E30 with the studs first.
Wasn't much fun..

[Tony Fields]

I'm looking at some 11mm ARP studs from TU for my 85 block (built) but as I was torquing the 10mm head bolts, 2 of the 10 didn't quite grab tension so I figured I'd order up a new headgasket and drill/tap the block for 11mm's..

I also noticed in the FAQ that turbovanman stated I could torque up to 80ft lbs on ARP's for a high boost application, would that help to hold up longer if its not a race vehicle that see's about 12 - 14psi tops?

Any tips or pointers?

thanks everyone

Don't forget to drill out your cyl. head clearance holes for the 11 mm studs.

[tryingbe]

It's not so much to balance the cylinder head. The head with both mainfolds + turbo will not clear the firewall if you try to install the stud first.

[turbovanman²]

Depends on the car, I did a Shadow and could leave the studs in place, my van, I lower the head on then install one stud to locate the head then install the others.

You can torque the studs to 80ft/lbs NOT BOLTS.

[1985ShlbyChrger]

Simon, what is the most you would torque head studs down to with a Cometic HG?

[turbovanman²]

Simon, what is the most you would torque head studs down to with a Cometic HG?

Honestly, not sure, I think some of the higher boost guys have gone to 100 ft/lbs. My own personal experience is 80 ft/lbs to 30 psi and no issues so far.

[PentastarTurbo]

Honestly, not sure, I think some of the higher boost guys have gone to 100 ft/lbs. My own personal experience is 80 ft/lbs to 30 psi and no issues so far.

thats good enought for me

[1985ShlbyChrger]

I torqued mine to 85 ft'lbs so I guess I'll be ok. I just wanted to make sure I didn't overdo it. Thanks Simon.

Nate

[GLHNSLHT2]

I run mine at 85 with a MP gasket, just make sure to retorque after one heat cycle and no boost on that heat cycle. I lifted the head and sprayed antifreeze out the side of the head on the 1st time around. Retorqued it after putting in a new gasket and all has been fine since.