87 Shelby Lancer ...Im out of ideas.

[Hemicat]

Here's the story: Bought this car not running about 1 year ago. Had it shipped from East LA to Vermont.
87 Shelby Lancer has not been running since 2002. I had to replace the whole fuel system except for the injectors.
All of the cooling hoses and pump.
The car has been running great in and out of my garage. I took it for its first run 2 weeks ago.
Took it slow for about 2 miles then I pressed down on the pedal and went into boost, then I heard a boom
under the hood sounded like an intercooler hose coming off. I backed off the throttle and limped it home about 1/2 a mile.
When I got it home it was running rich and blowing black smoke out of the tailpipe.
The pcv valve popped out and the hose to intake manifold also was out. restarted the car and it ran like crap still blowing black smoke.
Now it won't run. I decided to replace the injectors first. still no change. I replaced the cap, rotor, wires and pick up plate,
power module, LM, coil, Map sensor and timing belt. Took off valve cover and everything looked good. Compression test was 120-
140-140-120.
The only codes I found was 12 and 37. The only Mods on the car are 2 Grainger Valves.
My question is what sensors are in effect during closed loop, on a cold start up?
Does anyone have any ideas?

[Hemicat]

I forgot to add that I have 56 psi fuel pressure, and I also removed the exhaust if it was a bad cat.

[cordes]

It won't start at all, or it won't stay running?

If it won't start, I would begin by checking the cam timing since you recently replaced the belt. I've been guilty of installing the rotor out of phase by having it rotated the wrong way. I've also lined up the arrows on the cam sprocket with the split in the cam cap, only to forget that the little hole needs to be pointing up, and not down.

Regardless of whether or not that fixes it, I'm concerned about the code 37 which is an open or shorted baro solenoid. Do you have it hooked up? You'll need to make sure it's plugged in, or you have a resistor in line to satisfy the computer. It's more than acceptable to bypass the solenoid when it comes to vacuum, but if the computer doesn't see it, then it won't be happy.

ETA: Here are some resources for the timing:

[Hemicat]

I replaced the timing belt after the trouble. Its dead on.
The baro solenoid is still unplugged.
It will not stay running, sounds like its running on 2 clylinders.

[cordes]

I replaced the timing belt after the trouble. Its dead on.
The baro solenoid is still unplugged.
It will not stay running, sounds like its running on 2 clylinders.

Can you check to see if you're getting spark to all 4 cyls? I hate to say it, but the loud bang coupled with blowing off PCV hoses and the low cyl pressure in two holes doesn't sound the best when you say that it sounds like it's running on 2 cyls.

What did the plugs look like when you swapped them out? What do they look like now? If it were running on two cylinders, I would think there would just be gas on two of them, or perhaps they would be extremely fouled. Have you tried pulling the spark plug boots to see if there is a difference in sound when you do so?

[Hemicat]

#2 plug looks too clean. I dont think its firing. The others have a black color to them.

[cordes]

Interesting. It theoretically should throw a code if there's something wrong in the injector harness. I would probably inspect all of that to see if it's looking OK. They're all pretty crusty by now. I only have one or two cars with the original at this point.

[Hemicat]

The boots on the injectors are all cracked, and # 3 injector connector was all green. I cleaned it up as good as I could.
Does anyone make a replacement harness? I cant keep it running long enough maybe to throw a code and my DRB2 just wont
talk to the LM. I plug it in and it just starts to operate the fuel pump and I can hear other relays clicking, it tells me to cycle the key or crank and
then nothing happens.

[135sohc]

All the piece parts to make a new injector harness minus the factory matched plug (switch to a modern sealed connector of your choice) can be obtained from any of the big electronic supply houses. Bosch EV-1 is the industry designation.

[cordes]

All the piece parts to make a new injector harness minus the factory matched plug (switch to a modern sealed connector of your choice) can be obtained from any of the big electronic supply houses. Bosch EV-1 is the industry designation.

I was able to source Bosh EV1 connectors with the stock style boot a couple years ago from Amazon. Though I've used many types and they all work well. For the connector from the main harness to the injector sub harness, I use the deutsch style connectors available from JRready on Amazon. I hate to say it, but I can't justify the cost difference for the real deal.

[Hemicat]

Thanks for the info. I might try to save the big connector. GM and Ford makes a lot of wire terminals but mopar wants big money for their connector kits.

[cordes]

Thanks for the info. I might try to save the big connector. GM and Ford makes a lot of wire terminals but mopar wants big money for their connector kits.

And a lot of the terminals are getting hard to find to boot. I wish the smaller bulkhead connectors were still available.

[135sohc]

Unless there is a secret concours d'elegance for 2.2 Mopars. Get out the wire cutters and go for it. Leave no old crusty connections behind

[cordes]

Unless there is a secret concours d'elegance for 2.2 Mopars. Get out the wire cutters and go for it. Leave no old crusty connections behind

I concur. I have a drawer I open which allegedly holds cutting, stripping, and crimping tools. All I see is several stacks of $100 bills that have been used to turn even more money in consumables into quality electrical connections. The peace of mind is worth it for me. It could be done significantly cheaper, with nearly the same results.

JRready and Iwiss have been good off brand ways to save while getting very professional results.

[Hemicat]

I have a spare t2 2-piece injector harness that I am going to rebuild. I checked my harness with a Noid Light and it checked out good. I have been swapping in used t2 injectors.
It now runs but sounds like its running on 3 cylinders. #1 and #2 plugs are still a little black and #3 and #4 are clean. None of the plugs are wet after running the car for a few minutes. I have spark on all 4 plugs.
Any other ideas?

[cordes]

If you can't hear a difference when pulling the plug wire, then I would guess it's not an ignition issue. I would think that it could be an injector issue, but you've replaced those. I might be tempted to swap them around to see if that makes a difference. The low compression on 1 and 4 still bothers me, but I don't think that's what's causing it since it's not those two with the abnormal plugs. This is a tough one.