Megasquirt and Variants Running Thread

[cordes]

That looks awesome, Wayne.

Do you have pictures of how the dist was modified to get the cam signal? Do you know what part number you used for the idle valve? Where does the output go?

I can't wait to see it run down the track again.

[wheming]

That looks awesome, Wayne.

Do you have pictures of how the dist was modified to get the cam signal? Do you know what part number you used for the idle valve? Where does the output go?

I can't wait to see it run down the track again.

Sorry Brian, I got busy and forgot I didn't reply.
I don't have pictures of what Brian did with the distributor, but I could try to get some.
I think it gets modified for only one shutter and then a sensor drilled through the side.

The IAC valve I bought from Amazon, here is the one I bought:
A-Premium Fuel Injection Idle Air... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CHJW7MZY...p_mob_ap_share

It requires a PWM output to drive it, and MS3Pro has 3 PWM outputs.

The valve itself is just bypassing some air around the throttle body. Brian fabbed a machined piece to use the stepper AIS location as where the air enters (but you also need to plug the other port from the pre-throttle blade side). What he did can be reverted, and I would like to try to get the factory stepper working, or you can get a controller that can convert PWM signal to stepper driver. This would allow using the working PWM output at least.
Something about the stepper output wasn't working, and even the ECU got sent back to Megasquirt for repair and check.

I'm still working through my tuning courses from HP Academy, but I have been tweaking on it a bit and driving it around. Not ready for a track yet. It's way too rich even at only 9.5psi.

And thank you for the encouragement and vote of confidence!
I might try to get into Hot Rod Drag Week this year. I need to quickly figure that out!

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[cordes]

Very cool. I'm not sure how much idle tuning you've done so far, but in my limited experience, when it gets dialed in, it will idle really well without the valve. I think Joy's Daytona won't get one because we only drive it when it's warm. I'll have to look into doing something for the stock AIC location. That might be a prime place to use some 3D printed nylon.

I'll be firing up the SL again tomorrow and driving it to school, so that should tell the tale of how well this repair has worked.

[wheming]

Very cool. I'm not sure how much idle tuning you've done so far, but in my limited experience, when it gets dialed in, it will idle really well without the valve. I think Joy's Daytona won't get one because we only drive it when it's warm. I'll have to look into doing something for the stock AIC location. That might be a prime place to use some 3D printed nylon.

I'll be firing up the SL again tomorrow and driving it to school, so that should tell the tale of how well this repair has worked.

When I first picked it up from Brian late October, I spent a lot of time trying to get some things figured out which affected the fan stalling the car when it would cycle on.

Oddly enough, the car would start, and cold start fine, warm up and idle ok. As soon as the fan got commanded the engine would nearly immediately stall. I just about exhausted myself before I found things that fixed it, and it was mostly configuration based changes.

I am using the idle control valve because with my under drive pulley, I do get a drop in battery voltage on fan start which does upset things (especially when injector settings aren't correct!). But I do have it idling decent as far as I think. But I'm sure a professional could improve things further.

I really want to get my knock sensor settings enabled, so I can at least have some indication to know if I am picking anything up. I am still just driving around moderately with all the corrections (or at least I think I have all of them) off to try to get the VE table dialed in better.
The steady state Dyno tuning method described in the HP Academy tuning course does look like a great way to get a much closer baseline before doing road tuning corrections. However I wanted to try to get things a bit closer on the road before I decide to try any Dyno tuning.

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[cordes]

I too have been interested in the steady state dyno method. I don't even know if there is a dyno in my area, though I'm sure there must be somewhere.

Keep me abreast of your knock sensor progress. That is one area which I find to be quite lacking in pretty much any aftermarket ECU setup. There's so much variability from engine to engine it seems like there's just not the capability for a feasible solution that's reasonable for a company to produce and make a profit on. Perhaps I'm off base, but I haven't seen anything that can replicate our factory ECU's capabilities yet, even for the Lm cars.

[cordes]

A reminder that the cam tooth can't overlap the missing tooth on the crank trigger when expecting MS to do sequential injection. I had a chunk of ice build up in the crank sprocket area which caused to car to jump the timing. When I put it back together I just lined up the crank and the cam with no regard for the intermediate shaft. The lower probability that the intermediate shaft lines up right to cause a problem is low, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. While my face is red, I learned a few things today.

Time to make a drip tray for the hood so this isn't a problem again...

[wheming]

That looks awesome, Wayne.

Do you have pictures of how the dist was modified to get the cam signal? Do you know what part number you used for the idle valve? Where does the output go?

I can't wait to see it run down the track again.

Looks like Brian modified the distributor like so, a machined piece housing a flying magnet. And the sensor is attached under the front to pick up the revolution.

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[cordes]

Thanks a ton for those pictures. That's not what I did, and looks like a much more elegant solution. That's to be expected from Slowe's work though. Very cool. Makes me think I need to somehow find room for a mill and a lathe.

[wheming]

Thanks a ton for those pictures. That's not what I did, and looks like a much more elegant solution. That's to be expected from Slowe's work though. Very cool. Makes me think I need to somehow find room for a mill and a lathe.

Steven Morris has a nice solution using a modular Ford 36-1 trigger wheel on the adjustable cam gear.
So no additional crank trigger is necessary.

I'm anxious to see how it all works out. It's not a Megasquirt conversion though, I think it was a MaxxEcu.

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[cordes]

I think I saw that. I thought about making up a wheel for the cam, but I thought the sensor mounting would go better for me in the distributor area since it's already setup for it.

I need to 3D print a cover for my distributor now that I'm thinking about it. Perhaps something personalize would be nice.

[cordes]

I think I saw that. I thought about making up a wheel for the cam, but I thought the sensor mounting would go better for me in the distributor area since it's already setup for it.

I need to 3D print a cover for my distributor now that I'm thinking about it. Perhaps something personalized would be nice.

[cordes]

What are you 8v guys doing for timing? I compared the 89 TII timing and the 89 MP TII timing and went between the two, but much closer to the 89 TII timing. I know the engineers were already thinking of aggressive timing due to the ability of the computer to pull timing when it sees knock when the MP stuff was out in 89.

In addition, the car is running really well, and I'm thinking it's time to bring it off of direct line to the WG boost levels. I'm guessing a lot of guys are using a solenoid to control the boost? The idea of PID boost control is intriguing.

[wheming]

What are you 8v guys doing for timing? I compared the 89 TII timing and the 89 MP TII timing and went between the two, but much closer to the 89 TII timing. I know the engineers were already thinking of aggressive timing due to the ability of the computer to pull timing when it sees knock when the MP stuff was out in 89.

In addition, the car is running really well, and I'm thinking it's time to bring it off of direct line to the WG boost levels. I'm guessing a lot of guys are using a solenoid to control the boost? The idea of PID boost control is intriguing.

I'm using what Brian had started me off with. I had tried to compare some points from my last MPTune cal (however that was for C16)
I did make some idle timing change. I need to revisit removing a bit of idle timing. Currently the van idles nicely with 22° at ~1000 RPM.
I'm wondering if my midrange timing, at low boost pressure might be a bit higher than it should be.
But I know Brian has done other conversions, so I bet he used some known good timing table. He did say the timing was set conservative. I just tend to worry anyway.


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[tryingbe]

https://www.msextra.com/forums/viewt...514181#p514181

How I set up my littleknocksensor.

I used the spark table from MPTune, car ran, but not as good as when I used this calculator when I made the ignition table as base. Side note, if your state has emission, you want mild/retard timing.

https://www.useasydocs.com/theory/spktable.htm

[cordes]

https://www.msextra.com/forums/viewt...514181#p514181

How I set up my littleknocksensor.

I used the spark table from MPTune, car ran, but not as good as when I used this calculator when I made the ignition table as base. Side note, if your state has emission, you want mild/retard timing.

https://www.useasydocs.com/theory/spktable.htm

Thanks. I'll do some more reading for sure. I did see your littleknocksensor, but I couldn't find where it's currently in production the last time I looked. It would be great if there was something which can be readily used for our cars out there.

[tryingbe]

I couldn't find where it's currently in production the last time I looked.

His website sucks but get in contact with Leonard.
http://www.insaneimportperformance.com/

[cordes]

Thanks. I appreciate the link.

[cordes]

Well, I got about 2 tanks of gas through it before the cutout this time. It runs really well, and starts well enough with my current tune so if I could get it to be reliable I would be ecstatic. Of course, I was forced to coast into the driveway on Friday with no crank signal after picking up the kids. I did unplug the cam sensor, so it was clearly just a crank trigger problem. I'm still at a loss, as when I attempted to start the car today it fired right up like it should. This thing is a mystery to say the least.

Here are a couple of logs if anyone is interested in looking at everything. Like I said, I super happy with this except for the random problems every 400 or so miles...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12kv...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rgr...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vJv...ew?usp=sharing