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Thread: Error bit mask in MPTune

  1. #1
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor jonnymopar's Avatar
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    Error bit mask in MPTune

    Sorry if I missed this somewhere. I believe our check engine codes are in octal, not decimal. When I'm using the error masking in MPTune, do I set it to an equivalent decimal value?

    For example, I'm trying to get rid of a code 26. 26 octal = 22 decimal. Do I set the slider to 26 or 22?
    Jon J.

    1989 Daytona ES 2.4L DOHC
    2003 Neon SXT - gone but never forgotten

    If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is!

  2. #2
    Garrett booster
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    Re: Error bit mask in MPTune

    What year and which ECU?

    For example: "T-SMEC_25_MTX_B151_Stock.tpl" in T-SMEC 19.6
    Code:
    ; ***********************************************************************
    ; ERROR CODE MASKS
    ; ***********************************************************************
    ; Error code "masking" is implemented differently in the '89 T1 than in the earlier code.
    ; Instead of masking bits for the individual codes, an internal code is used to mask up to
    ; 7 different code bytes. The code bytes are as follows:
    ...

  3. #3
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor jonnymopar's Avatar
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    Re: Error bit mask in MPTune

    I'm using T-SMEC T1/T3 MTX. Aries_Turbo did some updates to my cal for me and I'm just trying to learn MPTune. I had a persistent code 26 since I'm using SRT-4 injectors (high-impedance). The code he sent me did the trick as for getting rid of it. The way the cal is set up now, ErrorBitsMask1 through 6 are set to 19 through 24, respectively. ErrorBitsMask7 is set to 0. I'm just trying to wrap my head around how that was able to get rid of code 26.
    Jon J.

    1989 Daytona ES 2.4L DOHC
    2003 Neon SXT - gone but never forgotten

    If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is!

  4. #4
    Boost, it's what's for dinner... Turbo Mopar Staff Aries_Turbo's Avatar
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    Re: Error bit mask in MPTune

    http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...=1#post1138484

    ; 26 Injector Current Limit Not Achieved 16,17,18
    ; 27 Injector Driver interface 13,14,15

    Hex - Dec
    13 - 19
    14 - 20
    15 - 21
    16 - 22
    17 - 23
    18 - 24

    Thanks,

    Brian

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman
    This one is easy, I have myself to blame, I rush things, don't pay attention to gauges when I should, change to much stuff at once then expect miracles, the list is endless.

  5. #5
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor jonnymopar's Avatar
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    Re: Error bit mask in MPTune

    Thanks Brian. I didn't want to bug you directly since you've already been a huge help. I made those posts in 2018 before I discovered that my cal had the wrong template version, preventing it from loading properly, so I gave up.

    Eliminating the code 26, enabling the 2-step limiter, and the flash-on-knock features all work perfectly on the cal you sent me! The flash on knock feature has been uh... particularly enlightening. I should probably wire in an SRT knock sensor instead of relying on my 30+ year old 2.5 sensor. With plenty of fuel and relatively conservative timing, that light comes on more than I expected.
    Jon J.

    1989 Daytona ES 2.4L DOHC
    2003 Neon SXT - gone but never forgotten

    If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is!

  6. #6
    Boost, it's what's for dinner... Turbo Mopar Staff Aries_Turbo's Avatar
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    Re: Error bit mask in MPTune

    no worries. if you need some help, you need some help.

    the SRT sensor is incompatible with our electronics. its a wide range sensor, like a microphone with no frequency filter. the stock sensor is physically mechanically tuned to resonate at around 6300hz which the ECU expects.

    the closest one that I have seen that might work is a 2000 neon sensor but it interfered with the fuel rail or my manifold or something like that when I tried to use it on a 8v. It appeared to be a tuned sensor like our stockers (same bore size on the neon), but had a nice 2 wire connector.... but it didnt fit my setup. It may fit the SRT-4 motor just fine. one side will need to go to the fuel rail bolt ground and the other side to the ECU.

    if you change anything too much sensor wise, youll have to retune the knockvsrpms table. when you use a different motor, you will probably need to tune the table. when you make way more power than stock, you will probably need to retune the table.

    log RPM and knock volts and put in race gas so that it doesnt knock, lower the boost a little, use a listening device on the block to make sure you dont have knock, and then hammer the car around some while logging knock volts and RPM. use the brakes to hold the car loaded at various RPM points so you can get a baseline engine noise level for each RPM so you can redefine the table.

    Brian

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman
    This one is easy, I have myself to blame, I rush things, don't pay attention to gauges when I should, change to much stuff at once then expect miracles, the list is endless.

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