Turbo Cooling Line to block broken!

[Lee'sdaytona]

Good afternoon,
So one of the previous owners of my 86 Daytona Turbo Z added this 10" or so long extension off the back of the block for the coolant line to the turbo. I never gave it much thought because it worked. Well, I had a new exhaust system welded in and either they bumped it or something in the road kicked up and hit the pipe and cracked it where the pipe meets the block. I noticed a pretty fast coolant leak about a week after the exhaust work.
I tried to heat the pipe before putting a pipe wrench to it, but to no avail, it broke clean off at the block. I thought it wouldn't be such a big deal still because the pipe is brass and the block is cast iron. Well, most of the fittings are brass, and of course the pipe that broke off in the block is steel

So now the question, what is the best way to attempt to remove this successfully? My guess is a couple weeks of treating it with PB blaster, then try a traditional easy out? Maybe there is a better option?
Does anyone have a picture of what the stock setup is supposed to look like so I can set it up back the way it should be?
Thanks,
Lee

[james]

Get a lil heat into it with like a map gas torch, then use an ease out on it.

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[4 l-bodies]

With all that weight on it, if that pipe would have been brass, it would have broken off a long time ago. That is WAY too much leverage working on those thin threads.
Well silver lining, it is reasonably accessible, could have been much worse. BTW, it is 1/4" NPT tapered threads you're dealing with.
Todd
Added a couple pics of what it looks like. There is a fitting on the block, a fitting on the turbo, the actual steel line with silicone hose with inverted tube fittings on each end, and a small bracket that is used for support. Many times that bracket is missing. Gonna be very tough to find NOS, but you should find someone has a good used one they are willing to part with. Alternatives are from vendors, and making one with AN fittings and hose. I probably have a few good used ones OEM ones if you can't find anyone to sell you one.

[cordes]

I would recommend heat and an easy out also. Hopefully the fitting isn't totally seized in there.

As for the line, I would certainly make my own. As stated in the video, I'd definitely do -6AN on the back side of the block. The -8AN was too large in my opinion to clear the starter well. I just wrestled with that again last weekend, and it was not fun at all.

[Lee'sdaytona]

With all that weight on it, if that pipe would have been brass, it would have broken off a long time ago. That is WAY too much leverage working on those thin threads.
Well silver lining, it is reasonably accessible, could have been much worse. BTW, it is 1/4" NPT tapered threads you're dealing with.
Todd
Added a couple pics of what it looks like. There is a fitting on the block, a fitting on the turbo, the actual steel line with silicone hose with inverted tube fittings on each end, and a small bracket that is used for support. Many times that bracket is missing. Gonna be very tough to find NOS, but you should find someone has a good used one they are willing to part with. Alternatives are from vendors, and making one with AN fittings and hose. I probably have a few good used ones OEM ones if you can't find anyone to sell you one.

Oh! I remember those hoses! No, mine have long ago been replaced by the aftermarket braided steel lines, and this past summer I replaced them again with new braided steel lines.
As you can see in the picture, there is red paint on the block, and some built up grease/oil, though I did clean most of it away. I'm just a little terrified I'll set the whole car on fire. Considering its oil, would a garden hose be a bad choice to use first if things go awry or should I have the ABC fire extinguisher close by?
Lee

[cordes]

Oh! I remember those hoses! No, mine have long ago been replaced by the aftermarket braided steel lines, and this past summer I replaced them again with new braided steel lines.
As you can see in the picture, there is red paint on the block, and some built up grease/oil, though I did clean most of it away. I'm just a little terrified I'll set the whole car on fire. Considering its oil, would a garden hose be a bad choice to use first if things go awry or should I have the ABC fire extinguisher close by?
Lee

While I recommend having an extinguisher handy, I've found that the old grease and oil doesn't burn all that well for fire starting purposes. You can generally blow it out like a candle. Now, a puddle of oil on the intake manifold on the other hand...

[4 l-bodies]

Picture of all parts for coolant feed. This will fit all 84-87 TI & all TII applications. Will NOT fit 88+ T1 2.2/2.5 Mitsubishi turbo applications. Those used different fitting, and tube assembly. I have four sets of these low mile used, so PM me if you want to go this OEM route.
If you go AN fitting route, I would use the PTFE hose and not the rubber membrane, as it doesn't degrade like the rubber will over time. IMO, don't buy the cheap fittings if using the PTFE, as they are very difficult to assemble. I bought some off brand fittings from Silicone Intakes and they were very terrible to assemble. They looked great, and will work good, but boy, never again...
Todd

[cordes]

I agree with Todd in regard to the fittings. I would also add that Jegs has their own brand, which are pretty nice. That's what I use. Since I generally use PTFE hose these days, I did splurge for the tools to open up the braid, and they're nice to have around if you'll be making a lot of lines over time.

[Lee'sdaytona]

Picture of all parts for coolant feed. This will fit all 84-87 TI & all TII applications. Will NOT fit 88+ T1 2.2/2.5 Mitsubishi turbo applications. Those used different fitting, and tube assembly. I have four sets of these low mile used, so PM me if you want to go this OEM route.
If you go AN fitting route, I would use the PTFE hose and not the rubber membrane, as it doesn't degrade like the rubber will over time. IMO, don't buy the cheap fittings if using the PTFE, as they are very difficult to assemble. I bought some off brand fittings from Silicone Intakes and they were very terrible to assemble. They looked great, and will work good, but boy, never again...
Todd

Todd,
Thanks for the offer. The factory lines are tempting, as I tend to like keeping things original. However, that rubber hose and crimp are very old, and I don't trust it frankly. Great news is I got the broken pipe out with the help of an excellent quality MAC brand screw extractor set. Came out in less than 2 minutes.
Now, the problem is the braided steel aftermarket line wont reach the block. Can you guys explain what PTFE hose is? I got my lines from Turbos Unleashed so I'm surprised the one line isn't long enough. Can anyone confirm which side of the turbo this line is supposed to connect to? Firewall side or engine side of the turbo goes to the back of the block?
Where can I get a new line that will reach? Any links?
Thanks for all your help, I'm thrilled and relieved that I got that stupid broken pipe out!

[Tonatom2]

My lines From TU although snug in length fit 100%. Wheres the photos.?

[4 l-bodies]

Todd,
Thanks for the offer. The factory lines are tempting, as I tend to like keeping things original. However, that rubber hose and crimp are very old, and I don't trust it frankly. ...Can anyone confirm which side of the turbo this line is supposed to connect to? Firewall side or engine side of the turbo goes to the back of the block?
Where can I get a new line that will reach? Any links?
Thanks for all your help, I'm thrilled and relieved that I got that stupid broken pipe out!

Glad you had success getting the broken fitting out. FYI- The factory line isn't rubber, but silicone. It's as pliable today as it was when it was new. To answer your question, the back side of the turbo is the feed side. That would be the side going to the fitting you just extracted. The firewall side is the return which leads to the thermostat waterbox. PFTE is basically a Telfon inner liner. Teflon is a trademark name so they use PTFE instead. It is used in lieu of rubber. It is still covered, usually in stainless, but can be covered in other materials. If your line doesn't fit, I'd be calling the vendor.
You can try Summit or Speedway. They both have pre-made lines.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Goodr...ine,44564.html
Since Tonatom2 likes pics :-) here is one I recently made for a GTX turbo install. IIRC, instead of 90° fittings I chose one side 45° and the other 60°. The GTX exhaust scroll and CHRA is is a bit different, so I had to get the line away from the hot exhaust scroll ASAP. The factory lines were all brass and steel at the back of the turbo so that was their solution.
Todd

[cordes]

I thought I posted my video earlier in the thread. PTFE is teflon and it works great. The fact that it doesn't degrade is ideal. Jegs now sells a wide variety of fittings and line for it. Many years ago, the options were few and far between unless you wanted to drop big money on it. There are some things to look out for, such as the fact that a lot of the fittings don't swivel, so you would need to get your angles right if you don't have at least one straight end on the hose. They do make swivel ends now, but it's something to be on the lookout for.

Here is a link to my video. You can see me fumbling with the PTFE line starting at about 14:50


- - - Updated - - -

ETA: Here is a link to the Jegs brand stuff. I should also mention that one does sacrifice bend radius vs. traditional hose, though that has gotten significantly better than it used to be also.

[Lee'sdaytona]

Attachment 66563

Sorry for the delayed response. I think my lines are backwards. The line which is on the firewall side of the turbo goes to the back of the block where the pipe broke off. The line that comes out of the turbo on the engine side goes to the thermostat.

I suppose I'll mess around with switching the lines to their correct location and then if they still don't fit, I may be interested in buying that factory line, or otherwise I'll figure out which line I need to order.

[Tonatom2]

Those are right.

[4 l-bodies]

Those are right.

Huh? righteously reversed.

[Tonatom2]

Big line from thermostat housing goes to back side of turbo. (firewall side.)

[james]

You are correct, but op are backwards

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[Tonatom2]

You are correct, but op are backwards

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Ah okay, see that. However as long as the coolant is flowing I doubt it's an issue.