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Thread: Flash rust on cylinder walls

  1. #1
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor Lee'sdaytona's Avatar
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    Flash rust on cylinder walls

    Good evening,
    I am in the middle of a very long head gasket job...actually the gasket was fine, I pulled the head to check the turbo because I thought it was burning oil. Turns out it's probably bad valve seals. Anyway, I pulled the head sometime in August. I have worked on it little by little here and there. Yesterday, I went into the unheated garage to find the two middle cylinder walls (piston 2 and 3 at BDC) have flash rusted. So I put some engine oil on the walls to stop any worse damage. I don't want to use steel wool for fear of some of the steel wool staying in the cylinder and causing more damage. What should I do?
    Lee
    86 Turbo Z 2.2

  2. #2
    Garrett booster
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    Re: Flash rust on cylinder walls

    I would try to hit the walls with a red scotch brite. If that doesn’t do it, then you could (don’t freak out) ball hone the cylinder with the piston on the bottom of the cylinder. This is not ideal at all, but possible.

    When I did it, I covered the top ring with grease to catch the filings.

  3. #3
    turbo addict
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    Re: Flash rust on cylinder walls

    I'm not a fan of using anything abrasive in the cylinders without disassembly. If it's just enough to discolor the walls, see how much you can wipe/scrub off with a towel and a little oil in it.
    “If the people of the nation understood our banking and monetary system, I believe there would be a revolution before tomorrow morning.” -Henry Ford

  4. #4
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor Lee'sdaytona's Avatar
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    Re: Flash rust on cylinder walls

    Ok I was thinking the red scotch brite might be good. I do still have a ball hone, but last time I did that to my caravan engine, the pistons were removed. I'll save that as a last resort.
    Thanks!
    Lee

  5. #5
    turbo addict
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    Re: Flash rust on cylinder walls

    look for a product called rust check

    spray the cylinder walls and let it set a couple of days then wipe . check results
    if clean enough flod the edges of the pistons to flush any crap through the rings and change the oil

    I used rust check to save a seized holley throttle plate .. a few months in a plastic tub soaking in rust check and forgotten all winter under a vehicle in the garage
    works perfectly now and I didn't need to do shaft bushings

    https://www.google.com/search?q=rust...D_enCA728CA728

    yes..it's rust proofing..but it also dissolves and removes rust too
    and it's good for electrical connections and even helps protect the insulation
    one of the most useful products on the market

  6. #6
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor Lee'sdaytona's Avatar
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    Re: Flash rust on cylinder walls

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Johny Dodge View Post
    look for a product called rust check

    spray the cylinder walls and let it set a couple of days then wipe . check results
    if clean enough flod the edges of the pistons to flush any crap through the rings and change the oil

    I used rust check to save a seized holley throttle plate .. a few months in a plastic tub soaking in rust check and forgotten all winter under a vehicle in the garage
    works perfectly now and I didn't need to do shaft bushings

    https://www.google.com/search?q=rust...D_enCA728CA728

    yes..it's rust proofing..but it also dissolves and removes rust too
    and it's good for electrical connections and even helps protect the insulation
    one of the most useful products on the market
    Cool! Thanks I'll give that a try. Well I thought I would make great headway on the engine rebuild today. Hit another road block. The threads that the intake manifold bolts go into are stripped out! I went to torque to 200 ft lbs, and the threads must have stripped. Guess the head is off to a machinist to be helicoiled because I have no luck with that. I just hope they are blind holes so I dont have to worry about the tabs from the helicoil going into the head. Thanks again for the tip!
    Lee

  7. #7
    turbo addict
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    Re: Flash rust on cylinder walls

    the lower row of exhaust manifold studs go into the water jacket
    those need sealer when you put things back together

  8. #8
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor Ondonti's Avatar
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    Re: Flash rust on cylinder walls

    For future reference, all the old high mile motors I have taken apart have always had sticking rings.

    I think cleaning this all up is more important than a perfect cylinder for overall engine health. A worn motor is worn, but piston rings not functioning is solvable.

    A 3.0 has a really annoying series of removals to get the oil pan off, and I still would remove the pan to pop out pistons if I suspected a problem. Assuming no chunky edges, I don't think localized rust removal is a good idea, Id rather have the rings do what they want with whatever is there if nothing was being repaired.
    Brent
    GREAT DEPRESSION RACING
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    - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi

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  9. #9
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Flash rust on cylinder walls

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Johny Dodge View Post
    look for a product called rust check

    spray the cylinder walls and let it set a couple of days then wipe . check results
    if clean enough flod the edges of the pistons to flush any crap through the rings and change the oil

    I used rust check to save a seized holley throttle plate .. a few months in a plastic tub soaking in rust check and forgotten all winter under a vehicle in the garage
    works perfectly now and I didn't need to do shaft bushings

    https://www.google.com/search?q=rust...D_enCA728CA728

    yes..it's rust proofing..but it also dissolves and removes rust too
    and it's good for electrical connections and even helps protect the insulation
    one of the most useful products on the market

    Yup Rustcheck is very good. Ryder truck uses it in electrical connections rather than dielectric grease in Canada
    Regards,
    Miles

    DD '87 Sundance T1, SLH with rear disks
    '87 CSX #432 2.5 CB TII, SLH

  10. #10
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    Re: Flash rust on cylinder walls

    Quote Originally Posted by Lee'sdaytona View Post
    Cool! Thanks I'll give that a try. Well I thought I would make great headway on the engine rebuild today. Hit another road block. The threads that the intake manifold bolts go into are stripped out! I went to torque to 200 ft lbs, and the threads must have stripped. Guess the head is off to a machinist to be helicoiled because I have no luck with that. I just hope they are blind holes so I dont have to worry about the tabs from the helicoil going into the head. Thanks again for the tip!
    Lee
    200 ft./lbs is just a tad to much for a 8 x1.25mm bolt. Try 200 inch pounds next time (lol). Not sure what intake manifold you are using, but the two piece intake manifolds use unique 57-58mm long bolts. Many people use modified 60 mm long socket headed bolts. Using one piece manifolds bolts on a two piece intake and you'll have threads pull out of head like you have. Also note the log manifold bolts are different length as well. Use too long of bolts and four of the intake bolts can bottom out ofn the head bolts. The other four intake holes are blind.

    Red= intersects with oil (should use some sort of thread sealant as oil weeping could occur)
    Black= Coolant (must use thread sealant)
    Blue= oil pressure feed (must use thread sealant)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by 4 l-bodies; 01-10-2023 at 04:31 PM.

  11. #11
    Hybrid booster
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    Re: Flash rust on cylinder walls

    Double check those specs. Lug nuts are in the 100ft lb area, I can't imagine intake bolts would be double that.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lee'sdaytona View Post
    Cool! Thanks I'll give that a try. Well I thought I would make great headway on the engine rebuild today. Hit another road block. The threads that the intake manifold bolts go into are stripped out! I went to torque to 200 ft lbs, and the threads must have stripped. Guess the head is off to a machinist to be helicoiled because I have no luck with that. I just hope they are blind holes so I dont have to worry about the tabs from the helicoil going into the head. Thanks again for the tip!
    Lee

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