I think Joy's Daytona is going under the knife very soon. I'll probably start an injector harness tonight. I think I have enough info to be dangerous now.
I think Joy's Daytona is going under the knife very soon. I'll probably start an injector harness tonight. I think I have enough info to be dangerous now.
I have the wiring harness layered the way I want, and I have my first strip of DR-25 on there to go from the connector to a little past where it comes out of the firewall. I removed the stock harness today and took off the fire wall connector. That was a bit of a doozy, as they really glued the wires in there from the factory. None the less, it slides over the wires which are remaining after I took out the ones I don't believe I'll need.
I'll attempt to strip out everything I don't need from the stock harness and get that all squared away next. This is going to be a lot of work, but it should be worth it in the end.
glad to hear you got it to fit in the stock grommet , should make for a cleaner installOriginally Posted by cordes
I worked more on the harness today, and I'm beginning to see the work paying off. It looks great and seems like everything will be where it should go. I'll try to get some pics up. The DR-25 is expensive, but it's well worth it.
Whoop, little knot here! Now the real work begins. I'll be savagely ridding the stock harness of all unnecessary weight.
I would also add that whomever designed the 1st gen daytona headlights and hid them in front of a core support should be summarily executed. I need to find out how those are supposed to be serviced and design something better.
The start to the harness looks a little bit better.
DR-25 ?? Is that the heat shrink you're using ?
Maybe when I do the D50 I'll look into it
I bought a HUGE roll at a yard sale for $10 of whatever brand heat shrink. I've been using it for 20+years now 😆
Though I did buy these mesh split loom wraps and Tesa Tape for the Cummins & Charger
Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
Yes, Raychem DR-25 heat shrink. It's what they use on top tier motorsport wiring harnesses. I believe it's used for some space travel as well. I bought it for the heat resistance. With Tefzel wire and DR-25 heat shrink, heat is not a problem within reason. With most commercially available wire loom and certainly with parts store jacketed wire, you're operating at, or above the max temp for them in places around the engine. I want to do this harness once and have it last for many years. Frankly, I feel like I'm going cheap with the TTL wire that comes in the harness from DIY Autotune, but it's nice to have the wires printed with what they're for.
I have the injectors, map, and iat wired in. Most of everything in front of the engine is done. I just need to supply power, wire the relays, and get the starter section in the car. Probably a couple more Saturdays at this rate, but I'm making progress.
Fantastic
Regards,
Miles
DD '87 Sundance T1, SLH with rear disks
'87 CSX #432 2.5 CB TII, SLH
I have had very little time to work on the car since the school year started. I did get the wiring all done and have attempted to start the car. It doesn't start. For some reason if I spin the distributor by hand, the RPM signal and everything comes through fine. When I crank the engine, there's nothing. I'll have to do some more digging.
just make sure where ever you pull power from has power while cranking , Mopar likes to kill half the circuits while cranking
Now, that's a thought that might save me a ton of time. I used the wire that was in the car from the previous WBO2, but at the same time, the MS does lose power if I keep it cranking... That could compound the issue to say the least.
I think I'm having the issue regardless though, as with the key flipped forward I have triggered the starter by jumping the terminals on the connector are the relay. Still no crank signal.
I have swapped the power feed to the J2 circuit and that took care of the signal loss during cranking. I'm seeing 160-180rpm during cranking with a 10k resistor installed between the power feed and signal wires to the black connector of the hep.
The car doesn't want to do anything other than crank.
do you have spark? (even at the wrong time) or fuel injector pulse?
Brian
I'll check for spark today. Is there a way I can see if the injectors are firing without dragging out the oscilloscope?
12v rated LED. (LED with a resistor to make it able to handle 12v)
Brian
or a cheap 12v LED light bulb.
youll have to make sure the polarity is correct.
Brian
Holymoley, this thing has a test mode! I hope I'm about to fall in love with this, as it hasn't been super impressive thus far. I feel like there must be at least 75 tables I can't find.
OK. The test mode works really well. I've known that the fuel pump works, as it primes like it should. However, I used the test mode to ensure that the injectors fire, and they do. Spark is another matter entirely. I get no spark, and I don't know why.
I get 12v at the connector, and the voltage seems to fluctuate when I engage the spark test mode, so I'm guessing it's switching the ground on and off. However, I don't get any spark coming off of the later style coil I have in the car, nor the oil filled type coil that I ran 12V off of the battery to and tried to use a jumper to the IGNOUT wire on the connector. That's probably not the greatest test, but since neither work, I'm a bit stumped.
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