The only way you get better is by time under the hood unfortunately. If I had to give advice I'd say to cold and too slow. What cfh is your gas flow. Will hold just fineOriginally Posted by cordes
The only way you get better is by time under the hood unfortunately. If I had to give advice I'd say to cold and too slow. What cfh is your gas flow. Will hold just fine
Thanks for the tips. I was using a number 5 cup with close to 15cfh of gas.
I discovered that the vert motor mount drops the support for the strut right behind, and above the trigger wheel. This scrap I had lying around should work if I can get the hole in just the right spot. I was using quite a few more amps on this and could tell I was actually getting good penetration.
Practice Practice Practice... also try a #8 cup. 5 is great for aluminum tho so hang onto that.Thanks for the tips. I was using a number 5 cup with close to 15cfh of gas.
I discovered that the vert motor mount drops the support for the strut right behind, and above the trigger wheel. This scrap I had lying around should work if I can get the hole in just the right spot. I was using quite a few more amps on this and could tell I was actually getting good penetration.
I'll give that #8 cup a go. Do you recommend it for the added stick out or just the added gas coverage? Thanks again for the tips.
Both but mainly gas coverage. You running a gas lense or just a collet body?
Just the collet body today. I do have a super cheap gas lens with the stubby cups I picked up off of Amazon. It's a noticeable difference when I'm doing stainless.
With the right coverage your regular steel welds will also have colors like stainless does
I've experienced that before, and it's certainly something to think about. I should probably work on holding the post flow on the weld just for good practice.
Holding for post flow is mandatory. If the tungsten is hot and glowing still and you pull away unshielding it the contamination goes right into your next weld when you light up
Last edited by bgbmxer; 07-04-2024 at 02:57 PM.
Well, back to the drawing board. I didn't like the lateral movement in the bracket when I got everything together. It was fairly stable, but I wanted something more robust. I could have added a cross brace from the back of the block and used one of the oil pan bolts. I didn't like that either.
I'm now working on placing a bracket on the front side of the pulley in the void between the AC and water pump/alt belts. If I didn't have AC, it would be much simpler. As is, it seems like it won't be too bad. I have put some accessories on a block I have in the garage so I can test it on there. It will bolt on where the brace is on the front of the motor mount. Those two 10mm dia. bolts should do the job nicely.
Well, that worked like a charm. I'm thrilled with my results. I'll try to get a picture of the bracket and sensor mounted up in the car. It's perfectly situated between all of the different belts and service won't be too bad either. I'll definitely do it a little differently next time, as the sensor is at the maximum amount of travel. Nonetheless, it is working very well, and fired up on the first try.
Now the question becomes, how do I set this thing up in Tuner Studio? I couldn't have any less idea what I'm doing, and I'm not seeing a really good guide for how everything in there works. Any help on that front would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks to all for their help in this matter, as I could have never done this without the help of all of you.
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