Microsquirt

[cordes]

I'm toying with the idea of putting g mircosquirt in. My omni when I get it running. I don't need anything more than what the factory gave us for the most part. I do want to keep some sort of knock retard feature, which seems li,e an add on for this product.

I know tryingbe has done this conversion, but I'm wondering if there are others out there.

Furthermore, I'm fond of the hep. Is there a proximity sensor option which could work there or perhaps just the option to keep the stock hep I know I'm not the only one to actually have really good luck with them over the years, on average.

Also, is the cost to do this whole thing such that I might as well go full MS3 because the overall percentage increase in price isn't that significant by the time I'm done?

If I could easily do this for under 1k, I'll be kicking myself for not doing it sooner...

[bgbmxer]

Why not just do a crank trigger and get rid of the distributor all together. Thats good enough for wasted spark

[cordes]

Why not just do a crank trigger and get rid of the distributor all together. Thats good enough for wasted spark

I'm a little leery of mounting the sensor down there for a car which will see all weather conditions.

[bgbmxer]

I'm a little leery of mounting the sensor down there for a car which will see all weather conditions.

Hall sensor will not care what so ever.

[cordes]

Hall sensor will not care what so ever.

But the bracket and everything might if I run over something or a rock gets kicked up there. Are they weatherproof?

[bgbmxer]

Odds of a rock getting inbetween are super low. Also yes its all waterproof.

[c2xejk]

I would also say go with a hall-effect sensor on the crank wheel... Generally a trigger on the crank will be more accurate (no belt to stretch or shrink...)

As for the distributor, you could keep it or get rid of it. I would likely get rid of it... A waste spark coil pack will be reliable and eliminates a small amount of drag on the engine.

On Microsquirt vs MS3. Not sure where prices are right now, but since you only need two spark outputs, I would say Microsquirt unless you want to mount the controller underhood (MS3Pro) or you want to go with Coil Per Plug... Or you want logging without a PC.

[tryingbe]

This is my cost from 2017. You'll need to update it and see if you can do it cheaper.

MicroSqurit Total Cost -$1,470

36-1 wheel welded to crank -$100
Balanced crank pulley -$74.31
Microsquirt + 8 ft harness -$369
36-1 wheel -$32.00
crank sensor -$43
QuadSpark -$89.00
MAP sensor connector -$8.50
MAT sensor connector -$10.00
ECT sensor connector -$10.00
TPS sensor connector -$10.00
420A wires -$20
420A coil -$20
Wiring Connector packs -$30
USB to serial -$15
Misc wires -$40
Uninsulated crimp -$20
Crimp tool -$13
Shrink Wrap -$10
Misc bolts -$15
Relay -$15
Fusebox -$25
Fuses -$5
E85 sensor + connector -$80
Injector resistor -$30
Wire loop -$20
On/Off 12v valve for idle control -$30
3m tape -$6
Tuner Studio and Megaviewer -$79.95
lilknockmeter -$119.95
BOSCH knock sensor 0261231038 -$25.00
TPS connector for knock sensor -$11.95
step down stud for knock sensor N90905502 -$2.49

[Ondonti]

This is my cost from 2017. You'll need to update it and see if you can do it cheaper.

MicroSqurit Total Cost -$1,470

36-1 wheel welded to crank -$100
Balanced crank pulley -$74.31
Microsquirt + 8 ft harness -$369
36-1 wheel -$32.00
crank sensor -$43
QuadSpark -$89.00
MAP sensor connector -$8.50
MAT sensor connector -$10.00
ECT sensor connector -$10.00
TPS sensor connector -$10.00
420A wires -$20
420A coil -$20
Wiring Connector packs -$30
USB to serial -$15
Misc wires -$40
Uninsulated crimp -$20
Crimp tool -$13
Shrink Wrap -$10
Misc bolts -$15
Relay -$15
Fusebox -$25
Fuses -$5
E85 sensor + connector -$80
Injector resistor -$30
Wire loop -$20
On/Off 12v valve for idle control -$30
3m tape -$6
Tuner Studio and Megaviewer -$79.95
lilknockmeter -$119.95
BOSCH knock sensor 0261231038 -$25.00
TPS connector for knock sensor -$11.95
step down stud for knock sensor N90905502 -$2.49

I am logging a lilknockmeter and most of what I get out of it is noise. I think my crankcase pressure sees knock more easily than the knock meter.

I also think he could cut out half this cost if he really wanted. He could also spend more depending on the materials chosen.
I would rather have the $1,400 install than a $600 install after all the work gets done if time costs you money.

[cordes]

I am logging a lilknockmeter and most of what I get out of it is noise. I think my crankcase pressure sees knock more easily than the knock meter.

I also think he could cut out half this cost if he really wanted. He could also spend more depending on the materials chosen.
I would rather have the $1,400 install than a $600 install after all the work gets done if time costs you money.

You're suggesting that the Lilknockmeter doesn't work well for you? I'm amazed that there aren't more widely available, affordable solutions for knock given how well our stuff from the last millennium accurately detects and handles it.

[Ondonti]

You're suggesting that the Lilknockmeter doesn't work well for you? I'm amazed that there aren't more widely available, affordable solutions for knock given how well our stuff from the last millennium accurately detects and handles it.

It would probably be better if the creator was more interested in it. I think he is a very bright person who understands his product too well and uses it with an exact setup of his own vehicle.

Chatting with him on email is difficult. Communicating with the device requires lots of USB driver headaches, which weren't compatible with the drivers I had to use on the AEM piggyback I was messing with. I have an audio jack too. 91m bore Mitsubishi knock sensor screwed into a nut/bolt adapter that can screw into the rear facing side of the Chrysler 3.0 block. My 1992 Diamante 3.0 blocks have a proper central knock boss in the block valley.

I originally wanted to use it to have a voltage output that could be used by the older Megasquirt knock inputs. I think that expectation isn't really its strength.
MSpro can look at knock signal directly and I believe in a specific window of crank rotation for each cylinder.

My Fueltech can't do anything with knock so I just log the voltage and crankcase pressures (2 separate sensors) and look for overlaps. I think I wasted too much of my life worrying about knock detection without spending enough of my life creating knock.
Buying both a flex fuel sensor and knock sensor setup is "extra" as E85 sorta negates knock sensor noise. Flex Fuel is also a massive hassle. If you can run all E85, do it. Pull 30-40% fuel if you have an emergency. You can do that by changing required fuel Stoich settings in Megasquirt using your phone and MS droid app. E10 is 14.2 E85 is like 9.7. Change nothing else. Pull global timing if you plan on seeing boost.
A professional Flex Fuel tune can double tune costs. Nobody likes doing it. I will probably start using my Flex Fuel sensor for Flex tune when I install the "built" motor my Spirit has had on the shelf for 3 years. Pretty risky on a weak piston motor unless I spend a lot of time I don't have.

[cordes]

Thanks a ton for that cost breakdown. I doubt much could be shaved off of that, so it's a very good baseline. I tend to go crazy when it comes to spending money on wiring, so that won't help things.

[cordes]

Picked up a microsquirt. It looks like I can use the hep, so that's what I will try first. If anyone has first hand experience with this, I would love some input.

[bgbmxer]

Picked up a microsquirt. It looks like I can use the hep, so that's what I will try first. If anyone has first hand experience with this, I would love some input.

I have heard that it works but then heard multiple times it doesn't. I think you could make it into a trigger wheel tho

[cordes]

I have heard that it works but then heard multiple times it doesn't. I think you could make it into a trigger wheel tho

I guess we'll see. I would think it should work just fine as chrysler used the stock hep to do sequential and were just asking for the same old batch fire injection from the mid 80s.

[Pat]

I'm using Microsquirt with a hall effect crank trigger on my T3 Shadow. So far, I've really liked it. The car makes more power and is more consistent than I was ever able to get it on factory electronics. There are trade offs...cold start, cold drivability etc. is very difficult to achieve at the same quality level you get from the factory ECU. If you try, doing it all for under $1k is definitely doable.

If you want to use the distributor/HEP, you should consider talking to Reeves. He may have some insight to share that could help you.

[cordes]

Thanks Pat. Il contact Reeves and see what he has to say. I didn't realize he was using the hep.

[tryingbe]

There are trade offs...cold start, cold drivability etc. is very difficult to achieve at the same quality level you get from the factory ECU.

Add more fuel to Priming Pulse, Cranking Pulse, AfterStart Enrichment, Warmup Enrichment.

https://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=46234

[LaserDad]

I'm just starting to install a Microsquirt on my 2.2L T2 setup, but had to buy a wideband converter kit, because Micro doesn't support wideband. That raises the price even closer to Mega, which does support wideband.

[cordes]

I'm just starting to install a Microsquirt on my 2.2L T2 setup, but had to buy a wideband converter kit, because Micro doesn't support wideband. That raises the price even closer to Mega, which does support wideband.

I have a couple of the controllers lying around or in cars already, so that wasn't a huge deal for me. While I can't imagine it with a boosted application, a one wire nb sensor would be more than fine for a lot of builds.