Fixing the fan switch permanently

[135sohc]

So the dashboard on the Shadow has been removed, wiring repairs made and more junk added to alleviate the trash design of running all the blower motor power right through the ignition switch and the two higher speeds on the fan switch have also been bypassed via relays.

And you wonder why all the gauges and everything twitch anytime there is a change in the electrical load say from the blower motor or turn signals flashing ? Probably has nothing to do with nearly every single ground on the dashboard coming into two splice points which were then linked together and sent via another undersized wire through a crappy connector onto the final termination point on the lower floor pan side inner rocker panel.

Heavy up power coming from the battery (fused of course) to feed the fan system via a bus bar and the ground side of the mess is also getting the same heavy up direct return to the battery post. Other than the airbag control module which does have its own dedicated ground, which I will respect and leave as is. Everything else got gutted and redone.

Rats nest of sticky nasty wiring would be an understatement. All going back together with lacing tape and minimal adhesive tape only where absolutely necessary.

Pictures to come.

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

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also quick question .
is the P body heater-a/c box the same as in the G & J body cars"
if so it might/should have the two little screw mount bungs molded to the bottom of the box , in the center , each side of where the mode cable door cable attaches
if you have that you can do the auto temp control swap with the VARIABLE speed fan switch

those two little screw shaft long bungs mount the mode door motor and cryco started adding them in '87 to all g & j body a/c boxes

with the mother load of electronics that go into that option your rework on the power and grounds would be even a better idea

[135sohc]

The basic 'box' assembly is the same on later years, of course all the ducting and external influences are variable to each car model.

I'll look later, pretty sure those screw mounts are there on mine. Someone here did the ATC conversion on their P body years ago and did a brief breakdown of how it went. One of you Canadian people IIRC, I think his user name was 'Racoon' maybe?

[135sohc]

F*** me

placed an order w/Waytek Wire just before leaving work. Half way home my phone goes off with fraud alert, figured it was the charge from Waytek. Called in and oh hell no, multiple charges at apple.com and one of them got through before the rest got denied.

Waytek order got declined per the email awaiting me at home. So that got delayed and my primary CC got cancelled. Going out of town saturday for a week so no sense in putting that order through because nobody will be here to take the box in. Car is in a 100 pieces and looks like it will be for at least another 2-3 weeks now.

[cordes]

Sorry to hear of the troubles with your card that is a real bummer, I will certainly be following this, as I had a great deal of trouble with my 90 shadow blower motor setup.

I relayed the blower motor and it made all the difference.

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

I ask my C Card company for a new card every year ..since I started shopping online
then at least no one has a current card number

years ago it was the carbon paper you had to collect an keep after every in store purchase
my dad got a bill one day for tickets to Pakistan..someone had scooped the carbon paper slip that had all the card info on it

[135sohc]

What a cluster-phuck every way it could be.

Between weather and availability I just cannot get anything done. I will find the camera and get some progress shots this afternoon. Got another setback yesterday, glad I found the issue though as it would have eventually made for a rust hole. Decided to pull the carpet to redo some of the past wiring I have added, add a couple pre-wire provisions for things like heated mirrors and just check things out.

There was a section of the harness on the drivers side for the front-rear connections that had a damaged spot. The fuel pump power feed wire was partially severed, some of the taillight wires were also partially cut through. Where the OEM wiring mount provisions were done via sheet metal screw to the floor I decided to drill out the holes and put in a riv-nut to have a more sealable pass through point on the floor. Every screw hole location had a bit of rust around it.

With everything pulled up and looking underneath the car I saw daylight coming through a spot... Underneath a corner of the d-side rear seat mounting stud reinforcing bracket spot welded to the floor there is a crack forming. From the inside it it almost completely hidden under the bracket, on the bottom side after scraping away the undercoating and wiping with a solvent rag it pops right out visible. Looked at the inboard stud area and around one of the spot welds it also had a crack forming.

My old riv-nut puller leaked down enough to not work anymore so I got another one to get by and figure out how to refill the old one.

[135sohc]

General tidy up and redo.

The relay and distribution panel. Still need to add a couple fuses to replace the ones no longer in the fuse block due to the terminals used in the fuse block not being available. Terminate the overhead console and figure out the power mirror circuit.

The power feed through for the positive will be just above the go pedal. It will be close but clearance is clearance as anyone in the world of CNC will say. Blue sea systems 2201 is the pass through connector.

The negative/return will be coming through the hole in the toe board. I made a two piece bolt together fitting that will go into there and the pass through connector (blue sea systems 2202) will mount onto that.

[cordes]

Wow. That looks very nice, and very involved. Great work.

[135sohc]

The power feed routed and installed.


On the inside

[cordes]

Is that coming straight off the battery?

[135sohc]

Indirectly yes, I have a bus bar mounted on the strut tower that is fed directly from the battery (no fuse) and that cable is connected to the bus bar with a 60 amp MIDI fuse to provide circuit protection.