SMEC Code 43

[GLHS60]

My Omni has run perfectly since installing the S60 wiring etc back in 1997.

It was nice out day today so I decided to go to the car wash and clean him up.

A few miles from home it bucked a couple of times and stalled out completely.

I hitched a ride back home and grabbed a fuel pressure tester and a spare HEP.

Once back at the car I attached the FP gauge, gave it a try and it fired right up.

Fuel pressure was fine so I started back home and the same thing happened again.

Must be the HEP, so I swapped it out, fired right up and once more I headed home.

Back home I decided to run it down my road a bit and it started acting up again.

This time my eyes were glued to the tach as a falling tach was always my HEP test.

I kept it at 4 K RPM, the tach needle was steady but it bucked again and stalled out.

Almost home, I had to use my old quad to push it inside the shop.

This time I checked codes and got a code 43, never saw that one before??

I researched 43 as best as I could, it seems to be ignition or SMEC related.

The wiring is in excellent condition and the grounds are all in place.

I'm still working with only 1/2 a brain and one hand after my stroke.

So now I'm kindly looking for any advice on tracking down this issue.

Questions:


1: I've never had a SMEC go bad, has anyone else had one go bad like this??

2: I've never had a coil go bad, has anyone had one go bad like this?

(It's the 1990+ style that mounts with the thermostat housing.)

3: One lead should have 12 v, the other flash with the Engine cranking, right?

4: If the coil lead flashes does that eliminate the HEP and SMEC?

Thanks
Randy

[chromguy]

Hi Randy,
the coil + is connected to the ASD so hot when IGN is on. The negative is controlled by the power module and will pulse with every coil firing
It could be bad caps on the power module.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44moXBKf3Yc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmG4CCmV3dI

[GLHS60]

Hey Miles!

So today I have no power at the coil and no test light flashing.

I do have fuel pressure and can hear the fuel pump humming.

Yesterday I thought I had a code 43 but today it looks like 42.

I'm doing the key dance and sometimes get a bit confused.

What next step would you recommend?

Thanks
Randy

[GLHS60]

This evening I changed the SMEC and it started right up.

Ran for a couple of minutes, turned it off, and no restart.

Checked codes and got a 42 and 54 so I swapped the HEP.

Started fine and ran for a while with no issues or codes.

But, being the ADD type I am I had to test the coil for blinks.

It's the newer 1991+ style coil with the small connector.

I might have made a mistake, I probed both sides together.

Only 1 test light lit up and it didn't blink, it just lit up.

They should be checked separately, right??

I'll have to test them both again tomorrow.

Faulty HEP and SMEC together same time!!

Then, I'll chance another test drive.

Still not totally confident.

I'll get him washed yet !!

Thanks
Randy

PS: I still shiver remembering I drove about 300 miles before Christmas.

Had a new 3" exhaust installed by an old exhaust friend who moved about 150 miles away.

If it would have cut out on the highway I might have froze my prunes solid.

[135sohc]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...highlight=coil

Cliff notes: replace the coil and connector with a later one. The terminals lose tension over time and you get an intermittent spark.

[GLHS60]

Lots of good info in that thread, I appreciate the link.

Thanks
Randy

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...highlight=coil

Cliff notes: replace the coil and connector with a later one. The terminals lose tension over time and you get an intermittent spark.

[cordes]

Beware a faulty alternator if you’re getting a cutout and a code 54. I had a horrific time tracking it down in out daytona years ago, and only realized that was the problem when the alt finally died. I replaced it and the problem what gone. I’m told a bad diode was probably allowing the alt to throw out a little ac current and it freaked out the computer causing the cutout. Replaced alt no more problem. I’m not sure if anything other than an oscilloscope would have caught that in the initial stages.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...hlight=Daytona

[GLHS60]

Interesting Brian:

It's running now but the alt. belt is squealing loudly on startup.

I'm not yet sure if it's just the belt or something is up with the alternator??

I thought maybe because there was extra load on the alt. charging up the battery.

The battery never died but it did provide a lot of cranking while working on this issue.

Thanks
Randy

Beware a faulty alternator if you’re getting a cutout and a code 54. I had a horrific time tracking it down in out daytona years ago, and only realized that was the problem when the alt finally died. I replaced it and the problem what gone. I’m told a bad diode was probably allowing the alt to throw out a little ac current and it freaked out the computer causing the cutout. Replaced alt no more problem. I’m not sure if anything other than an oscilloscope would have caught that in the initial stages.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...hlight=Daytona

[jeff1234]

Randy, just a thought. Whe. I was trying to get my smec running Brian helped me to discover a bad asd relay. It wouldnt fire at all but when i installed a new asd it fired right up. Might this be a possible problem?

[GLHS60]

I appreciate the reply Jeff but I had a spare and changed it already.

Once I swapped the SMEC and put the original HEP back in it fired right up.

Next I'll have to look at my alternator and belt for the squealing issue.

Thanks
Randy

Randy, just a thought. Whe. I was trying to get my smec running Brian helped me to discover a bad asd relay. It wouldnt fire at all but when i installed a new asd it fired right up. Might this be a possible problem?

[GLHS60]

Thinking I had my Engine all figured out, I decided to go for a short drive.

I let the car idle for about an hour, then drove it around my yard a bit.

What could go wrong?? I giggled like a school girl, so proud of myself.

Same spot as before, it bucked a bit, and again I coasted to a stop.

Still about 100 ft from my shop, all uphill with a sharp left.

Again, I enlisted my old quad to gently push him inside.

Code 42 !! I thought I went through this already??

Swapped in another AIS relay it fired right up.

BUT, WITH A BIG BONUS THIS TIME !!!!!

My previously inoperable gas gauge is now working ?

It hadn't worked since I got the car running again last fall.

Each time it stalled I maintained proper, steady fuel pressure.

Somehow the AIS is seemingly in control of the L body gas gauge??

The defective AIS keeps the fuel pump pumping but cancelling something.

This may be too complicated for my stroke riddled brain to figure out.

Or, it may be some kind of un-understandable to me, cruel coincidence.

If anyone can explain please do. I'm ecstatic to have a gas gauge.

But will it now drive with out bucking and stalling like before?

Tomorrow I'm putting on my short pants and trying again.

Big boy long pants are too hot for pushing my car around.

Thanks
Randy

[chromguy]

Sounds great Randy that a new ASD relay fixed the issue