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Thread: L body rear bar question

  1. #21
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: L body rear bar question

    How much are you shooting for?

  2. #22
    Garrett booster
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    Re: L body rear bar question

    Quote Originally Posted by cordes View Post
    How much are you shooting for?
    Not to be flip, anything I can get. With spindles off a spirit r/t, the coil overs and slotted top strut towers we were at 0 camber. Iíve slotted the upper bolt hole in the bracket on the coilovers to allow the bolt to slide further towards the tube. I could shave the back side of the spindle some that slides into the bracket of the coil over also.

  3. #23
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor GLHS60's Avatar
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    Re: L body rear bar question

    I've been meaning to get a pic of the control arms but the K is too heavy for me to tip over.

    The next time someone comes over I'll try and get some help.

    An interesting thing PB Johnny did was tie his LCA's together.

    Kind of like a strut tower brace on the bottom.

    Thanks
    Randy


    There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.

    Randy Hicks
    86 GLHS60
    86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
    89 Turbo Minivan
    83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
    Edmonton,Alberta,Canada

  4. #24
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor GLHS60's Avatar
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    Re: L body rear bar question

    Another thing that intrigues me is a homemade, adjustable, rear anti roil bar.

    Some use a length of unequal Tee bar steel beam across the rear twist beam.

    It attaches using muffler style clamps through holes in the flat side.

    Clamping the Tee closer towards each wheel firms up the bar.

    Thanks
    Randy


    There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.

    Randy Hicks
    86 GLHS60
    86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
    89 Turbo Minivan
    83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
    Edmonton,Alberta,Canada

  5. #25
    turbo addict
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    Re: L body rear bar question

    Quote Originally Posted by GLHS60 View Post
    Another thing that intrigues me is a homemade, adjustable, rear anti roil bar.

    Some use a length of unequal Tee bar steel beam across the rear twist beam.

    It attaches using muffler style clamps through holes in the flat side.

    Clamping the Tee closer towards each wheel firms up the bar.

    Thanks
    Randy
    Hey Randy,
    I had a rear anti-roll plate attached on my GLHT as you described almost back when it was new. I took it off as it creaked and cracked all the time. It was very annoying. I even tried insulating the bar from the twist axle. I'm glad I removed it as Harry had some eye opening stress fractures in the subframe where his rear axle attaches. I wouldn't doubt if he replies to this thread showing the damage done to his car.
    I also added plenty of material to my front crossmember to stiffen it up, sort along the lines that Johnny S. did. I remember seeing someone that also tied up the REAR strut towers. I would think that would be helpful too to a car that was road raced or autocrossed heavily. I also boxed up the forth side on the crossmember attachment perches. I could see those twisting some when torquing up the four crossmember bolts and nuts. Much like the right front engine mount. That can stand some gusseting too. Looked for pics up that but apparently didn't shoot any. I remember Rob (Shadow) saw his front strut towers separating. I've seen this on both drag cars and heavily autocrossed L-bodies. Tranny tunnels too will get stress fractures in sheet metal. I think front strut tower brace as almost mandatory for any aggressively raced L-body. Real fix is a cage for the car.
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  6. #26
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor GLHS60's Avatar
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    Re: L body rear bar question

    Hi Todd:

    Harry welded his bar to the twist beam, inviting the cracks he experienced.

    Ken, 5 Digits "complimented" him on welding the bar rather than clamping.

    My thoughts were a race car could tolerate some creaking for the adjustability.

    Everything else I agree with!

    Thanks
    Randy


    There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.

    Randy Hicks
    86 GLHS60
    86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
    89 Turbo Minivan
    83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
    Edmonton,Alberta,Canada

  7. #27
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor minigts's Avatar
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    Re: L body rear bar question

    Quote Originally Posted by 4 l-bodies View Post
    Hey Randy,
    I had a rear anti-roll plate attached on my GLHT as you described almost back when it was new. I took it off as it creaked and cracked all the time. It was very annoying. I even tried insulating the bar from the twist axle. I'm glad I removed it as Harry had some eye opening stress fractures in the subframe where his rear axle attaches. I wouldn't doubt if he replies to this thread showing the damage done to his car.
    I also added plenty of material to my front crossmember to stiffen it up, sort along the lines that Johnny S. did. I remember seeing someone that also tied up the REAR strut towers. I would think that would be helpful too to a car that was road raced or autocrossed heavily. I also boxed up the forth side on the crossmember attachment perches. I could see those twisting some when torquing up the four crossmember bolts and nuts. Much like the right front engine mount. That can stand some gusseting too. Looked for pics up that but apparently didn't shoot any. I remember Rob (Shadow) saw his front strut towers separating. I've seen this on both drag cars and heavily autocrossed L-bodies. Tranny tunnels too will get stress fractures in sheet metal. I think front strut tower brace as almost mandatory for any aggressively raced L-body. Real fix is a cage for the car.
    That mod alone on my GLHS made all the difference. Changing lanes my car would flex , you could feel the roll. Now it shifts from side to side. The half cage that tied into the front a pillar doesn't hurt either.
    Last edited by minigts; 05-16-2022 at 11:45 PM.


    Jon Trotter

    1985 Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned
    1987 Shelby GLHS, #937
    1987 Shelby Lancer, #628

    Quote Originally Posted by Reeves View Post
    I can be ready. Please send pics of wife.
    _____DodgeZ add comments here______

  8. #28
    Garrett booster
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    Re: L body rear bar question

    Quote Originally Posted by GLHS60 View Post
    Another thing that intrigues me is a homemade, adjustable, rear anti roil bar.

    Some use a length of unequal Tee bar steel beam across the rear twist beam.

    It attaches using muffler style clamps through holes in the flat side.

    Clamping the Tee closer towards each wheel firms up the bar.

    Thanks
    Randy
    So you lay the T part against the top of the twist axle and then clamp against l part?

  9. #29
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    Re: L body rear bar question

    Just as a FYI my race car has a professionally installed roll cage with big spreader plates on the bottom of each tube. The body of the car is super stiff. You can Jack just in front of the rear wheel and lift the front one as well. that being said I could definitely see how there could be shock and strut tower flex

  10. #30
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor GLHS60's Avatar
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    Re: L body rear bar question

    The flat part of the T against the bottom of the twist axle and clamped from the top down.

    Maybe minigts above has a picture of how he made his??

    Thanks
    Randy

    Quote Originally Posted by Barraguy View Post
    So you lay the T part against the top of the twist axle and then clamp against l part?


    There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.

    Randy Hicks
    86 GLHS60
    86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
    89 Turbo Minivan
    83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
    Edmonton,Alberta,Canada

  11. #31
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor minigts's Avatar
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    Re: L body rear bar question

    I can get a picture of the rear strut tower brace this afternoon. I do not have any sway bars installed underneath the vehicle. Tried a bar plate years ago and the welds didn't hold and came loose. A nice endlink style sway bar underneath would be a good addition.


    Jon Trotter

    1985 Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned
    1987 Shelby GLHS, #937
    1987 Shelby Lancer, #628

    Quote Originally Posted by Reeves View Post
    I can be ready. Please send pics of wife.
    _____DodgeZ add comments here______

  12. #32
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor GLHS60's Avatar
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    Re: L body rear bar question

    As previously mentioned DO NOT WELD !!!

    Clamp only as welding tends to cause cracking.

    Thanks
    Randy

    "Harry welded his bar to the twist beam, inviting the cracks he experienced.

    Ken, 5 Digits "complimented" him on welding the bar rather than clamping.

    My thoughts were a race car could tolerate some creaking for the adjustability.
    "


    Quote Originally Posted by GLHS60 View Post
    The flat part of the T against the bottom of the twist axle and clamped from the top down.

    Maybe minigts above has a picture of how he made his??

    Thanks
    Randy


    There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.

    Randy Hicks
    86 GLHS60
    86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
    89 Turbo Minivan
    83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
    Edmonton,Alberta,Canada

  13. #33
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor minigts's Avatar
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    Re: L body rear bar question

    This is the rear strut tower bar welded in place by Slowe Speed. The covers don't show how it is attached, it looks similar to 4 l-bodies, just used round tube vs. square bar. Slowe's welding skills are pretty nice, I don't think I would ever trust my work to curve welds.

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    Jon Trotter

    1985 Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned
    1987 Shelby GLHS, #937
    1987 Shelby Lancer, #628

    Quote Originally Posted by Reeves View Post
    I can be ready. Please send pics of wife.
    _____DodgeZ add comments here______

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