Man I never thought to look for those type of connectors for splicing wires. Nice find!
Man I never thought to look for those type of connectors for splicing wires. Nice find!
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
Those are how the OEM wire splicing is done. Much more compact than the typical butt type splice. They are a carry over from the production side of things because they normally come on a reel and get fed through a pneumatic automated power crimper for volume wire harness production. The Chrysler repair connector kits come with those in a couple different sizes, which is how I learned about them.
1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 400,000 miles. "the science experiment"
1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore ?
Personally, I like using the bare barrel butt connector, crimp the wires, solder and cover with dual walled heat shrink tune. The inside wall melts and seals the goodness inside.
Regards,
Miles
DD '87 Sundance T1, SLH with rear disks
'87 CSX #432 2.5 CB TII, SLH
The issue I found with the closed barrel butt splices was the inevitable scenario trying to join multiple wires together and you run out of room in the splice. Even with stepped versions, seemed like I never had the right one at the time I needed it. For awhile I was using these parallel splice barrels and they worked great as long as you have a crimper with enough size range to handle them. But I still ran into the same issue on occasion. One size was just too big and one size was just too small. The price also quadrupled so I stopped using them after I ran out.
The BL-255 crimper showed up today and it might finally be the one. Should handle the big splice bands with ease.
On the topic of heat shrink.. For the longest time I was using the stuff from Delcity and one time they slipped up and sent the packaging with it. It was made in china and I could tell something was up as it seemed like the glue lining was not melting out and flowing nicely it also did not stick very well to the wire. After that I only bought the 3M stuff from waytek and mcmaster and the difference was night and day.
1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 400,000 miles. "the science experiment"
1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore ?
Just about done with this. Still need to order the ducting for the air intake, SCEET tube with finished ends.
Starter cable was cooked to a crisp on the end. It was already being remade as the current one was too short, cutting the end off to get the piece of ultra high temperature wire loom off (fiberglass with silicone jacket) I noticed how bad it was.
For the new starter lug I used a quick-cable part number 6406 lug, it has a longer reach than the others I have. Used a 1/4" hole lug since it had the narrowest width and took a step drill and opened the hole to 5/16-8mm to fit the starter stud. Still had plenty of material around it. Crimped to the cable, held it in the vise and bent it over with a dead blow. Comparing to past attempts that never really fit well this one came out almost perfect. The black wire cover is tech-flex Insultherm Tru-fit. First time I have used it in any real volume, reasonably priced for the level of protection it offers.
Car started right up, everything works and no smoke or flames came out. As of right now it has been just over 24 hours since the battery got reconnected. This turned into a much more involved project than I thought, which I expected it would anyways.
1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 400,000 miles. "the science experiment"
1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore ?