Things are coming along nicely. Having access to CNC sheet metal cutting and press brake capability really makes things like this possible. For the circuit layout/distribution I just sat down with the Eaton technical drawing and the chrysler service manual and figured out where to route things. For fuse sizing I did a few things of which all I fully disclaim:
-Proceed at your risk-
The J body (and G body) cars on the last few years of their production came with a PDC. Circuitry wise there really is not much difference between a G/J body and something like the P body (or the A body) for the basic circuits. The P body is probably the most simplified of the later K based cars because we have no BCM or BUS system to contend with. Everything is more or less 'point to point' on where it goes.
Study the service manual and see the breakdown of how Chrysler did it with fusible links (P body) or with real fuses (J body). For the most part those were almost a one to one conversion. Where it got a little more involved is not every circuit has the same distribution branch out. For those I did some rough load calculations and swayed to the side of caution. My particular P body is rather plain on the options so that also was factored in.
As a secondary check I also have a 2002 Ram 1500. The PDC on that truck is super detailed and very broken down. The a/c clutch is called out @ 10 amps, a/c condenser fan (similar fan motor as the shadow) is 20 amps, the fuel pump is 15 amps ect. The estimates I came up with were more or less the same as those so I went with them
It also helps for comparison that it uses the same mini style fuses as the Eaton unit I am using. One factor that I am keeping in mind is the amperage limitation of any one circuit is 30 amps because of the metri-pack 280 terminals. On a few circuits I will be running them at 30 amps... a little uncertain but they do rate it for that.
For the alternator feed I am using a 100 amp MIDI fuse and the battery + feed going into the PDC will also have a 100 amp MIDI fuse inline somewhere.
As a final closing note on the PDC I am using. It switches on the negative/return side of the relay coil, the positive side of the coil is powered off of the same fused portion of the circuit that is the incoming power. For the OEM circuits that are controlled that way it (should) work seamlessly. For the circuits that are switching via a power + signal like the starter relay and in my case the low and high headlight circuits that are using the original power feed as the signal for switching the relay that becomes a problem. I am keeping the add on fuse block I did earlier this year for the headlights and putting the starter relay into that.
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