hard to do on an 86 lancer es? How exactly does it come out? anything special or tricky to watch out for?
hard to do on an 86 lancer es? How exactly does it come out? anything special or tricky to watch out for?
bumpity
It should not be too bad. I have done a couple fuel pumps and the worst part I have experienced is the bolts that hold the straps up break when you try to remove them.
hmm,gota get it on stands and take a better look,are the straps inside of the tank?
Probably the straps that hold the tank up. I was just underneath my 600 the other day and noticed that mine don't look too bad. They are exposed to the elements pretty good. Another guess would be any of the bolts / straps holding the filter on ( if yours is back near the tank ).Originally Posted by 86lance
I'd spray them down REALLY good with either TriFLow or PB Blaster. Both of those work REALLY good. Spray them down good and then let them sit for an hour or so, depending on how corrorded the bolts / straps are.
+1 on PB Blasting the strap bolts...
Steps to do it;
1 - make sure gas tank is not full, close to empty is best
2 - make sure fuel system is de-pressurized (disconect power wires at pump then cycle key or de-pressurise at fuel rail)
3 - put car safely up on jackstands
4 - PB blast or other penetrating oil on strap bolts
5 - disconnect wires going to tank sending unit / pump
6 - disconnect hoses at pump (may be easier when lowered)
7 - place floor jack with board across it under tank
8 - jack it up till it touches tank
9 - after setting, loosen and remove strap bolts
10 - gently lower jack under gas tank to lower tank
11 - turn pump lock ring counter-clockwise using punch (or screwdriver) and hammer
12 - remove locing ring ensuring no crap gets into tank
13 - gently remove the pump / sending until assembly making sure not to lose o-ring gasket in tank
14 - swap out pump in assembly harness if you dont have a whole new assebly
15 - install in reverse order
JT
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weird i always thought u didnt need to remove the gas tank to switch out a fuel pump. Isnt that why the rear of the tank is curved with the wires coming out of it?
Nope.Originally Posted by 86lance
besides, if your locking rings are rusty, they're a pita to hammer off when its on the floor in front of you, much less up in the air. Make sure you take off your filter bolt (should be replaced anyway) and the exhaust shields may get in the way.
hehe funny what exhaust shields? Those were prolly moved long ago to accomodate for a 2.5 inch mandrel bend exhaust system,now theres a 3 inch side exit! lol Guess im towin the car to school to get the tank out of her. Or completely rule out the fuel pump being fried out
Have you just hotwired the pump? that will rule out any sort of asd/logic module issues
Mike,
you can try running a temp feed to the pump. Make a positive and negative jumper, then jump from a battery directly to the pump. If the pump whirrs to life and doesn't sound like it does when you where performing your other tests (kinda weak and sputtery if I remember) and sounds normal, then it's probably time to look elsewhere . You could put a 10amp fuse inline on the positive jumper to see if the pump is drawing to much. Have you tested the coil like we talked about? If you've got no +12v at the coil, and no power at the pump....well....time to work back through Z1 me thinks.
hehe, what he said.Originally Posted by J&H Ryan
well if i hot wire the pump wouldnt that mean asd relay,related circuitry and what not? Ill try hotwiring the fuel pump and check for 12v at the coil tomorrow night,had no time tonight,stupid mazda
Could be ASD, could be Z1. TEST FOR VOLTAGE AT + COIL FEED! Need to know if there is voltage there.Originally Posted by 86lance
Is a '91 Shadow a similar procedure?
Yep. They are all pretty much the same. The pump location for the L bodys is different I believe, but I have hardly looked at that on mine, as I have not really made it out of the engine bay yet.Originally Posted by John B
If you really like puzzles you can do it that way.Originally Posted by 86lance
JT
SDAC Director
SDAC-Chicago President
JOIN SDAC and your local Chapter TODAY! - SUPPORT the CLUB that supports YOUR HOBBY!
87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
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Even moreso!Originally Posted by John B
To answer the question about being able to do this while the tank is still in the car, yes, it CAN be done....on pre-'91 cars. And truth be told, it isn't that difficult because the pump assembly is quite a bit smaller than the opening it has to come out of, and it is also somewhat flexible. Doing it that way though requires extra vigilance to avoid any O-ring issues.
On a '91-up car (may be '90-up, but I know for sure it is '91+), the pump assembly is almost the exact size of the hole you are pulling it out of, so it HAS be dropped. If the tank is empty, or almost empty and you feel like wrestling for a half an hour or so trying to get just the right angle, you can still leave it partially in the car.
Oh, and the "official recommendation" is to use a copper punch to loosen the lock ring, because it won't spark. Though on every one I've done, I've used a screwdriver....call me lucky I guess.
alright i checked for voltage at the coil and im getting 11.56,which is all the battery has to put out since ive been testing it and what not.
so what does that mean? good or bad?