A/C Replacement Parts List

[jeff1234]

Thanks 135. I will check it out tommorow am.

[jeff1234]

Hey 135, Wow, checked it out tonight. Looks like it's available a number of places. Thank you very much.

[jeff1234]

I found them online tonight at a number of places. Thank you very much.

[135sohc]

Hose crimping tool showed up today. Got the ends installed, pressure checked, vacuumed down and serviced.

No more bull**** receiver drier leaks will be occurring under my hood anymore. Looks like it belongs there shame on chrysler for such a garbage design, shame on me for putting up with such a POS setup for way too long.

Need to get the bracket design tweaked on CAD, remake it and the proper adel clamps to make it solid.

[cordes]

I'd love some pictures and perhaps some part numbers to look at. This seems like something all of us need to look into.

[135sohc]

The drier is a universal generic unit I got from nostalgic AC it is something from the GPD A/C catalog. The fittings I ended up using were both 45 degree sized to the existing hose, one being standard and one being reduced diameter. They came from coldhose.com (they have both standard and reduced diameter in stock)

Pictures to come.

[cordes]

Sweet. Thanks for the info.

[jeff1234]

I have been working on my system lately and would like to share my experience. What happened initially was the suction end of the compressor blew out the seal. This happened because of high pressure on that side. At that point I had guessed that a hose had blown, this was incorrect. I bought a new discharge side hose installed and pulled a vacuum on the system. Still wouldn't pump down so I thought it must be the suction side. At that point I did what I should have done in the first place, I took the hose to a place called Tubes and Hoses and had it checked. They said it was OK but I had them remake it anyway. So I then reassembled the system, it still wouldn't hold high vacuum. I decided to try and charge it anyway, that is when I discovered the gross leak on the suction side. BUT WAIT, THERES MORE, lol. I ordered a seal kit and replaced the seals in the compressor by following the instructions in the FSM. On the discharge end of the assembly noticed that one of the fingers on the suction reed valve didn't look the same as the other two, part of the end was gone. It looked as though it were made that way at the point of manufacture and didn't seem right but I assembled it anyway. The bottom line was that the pump wouldn't create high pressure. (go figure,duh!). I wasn't able to find a source for the reed valve commercially but I found a parts compressor that yielded two good Reed valves so I have seal kits on order again. I have stumbled and bungled my way through this so I want others to benefit from my mistakes. When this event happened, much material came out of my vents confusing the issue. I first suspected hose problems that's when I should have checked the hoses. You really need a buddy to do this to plug one end of the hose and spray soapy water on the hose ends while injecting high pressure at the other end or have them checked professionally. Besides a hub pulling kit, split ring pliers and a vacuum pump you need to create fixtures to be able to check your condenser, evaporator and compressor separately to isolate the problem. I was able to do the evaporator and condensor but not the pump. That would have speeded up the process. One other item, the clutch cycling switch has a probe that goes into a tube incorporated on the suction side hose. It is important to fill this tube with grease. The grease acts as an interface that transmits heat to the probe which makes the switch disengage. I used a silicone grease but don't know if is correct.
I found In the long run this has been well worth doing even though it has been costly. Education costs money regardless of how you get it.
I hope others in this site will benefit from my experience.

[chromguy]

One other item, the clutch cycling switch has a probe that goes into a tube incorporated on the suction side hose. It is important to fill this tube with grease. The grease acts as an interface that transmits heat to the probe which makes the switch disengage. I used a silicone grease but don't know if is correct.

Last week I had a cranky switch so I upgraded to the later version that screws into the expansion valve block.

[jeff1234]

That's cool, part number? I can still get that and install it. Thanks for the tip Miles!

[135sohc]

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...re+switch,4656

[minigts]

Does anyone have a part number for the low pressure switch that threads onto the outside of the Schrader valve, preferably made of metal? The one I have is plastic and is stripped. The one on Rock Auto is the kind that threads into it, similarly like the oil pressure switch. This is for a 134 system.

[wheming]

Does anyone have a part number for the low pressure switch that threads onto the outside of the Schrader valve, preferably made of metal? The one I have is plastic and is stripped. The one on Rock Auto is the kind that threads into it, similarly like the oil pressure switch. This is for a 134 system.

I may.
I'll have to find it, but I think it is a plastic one also.
It is the large low pressure switch that was on the 89 vans with R12.

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[minigts]

I may.
I'll have to find it, but I think it is a plastic one also.
It is the large low pressure switch that was on the 89 vans with R12.

Sent from my KB2005 using Tapatalk

I found a couple that are metal, but the pressure switch values I wasn't sure we're the same. Guessing it's pretty close or consistent for the application?

https://nostalgicac.com/catalog/prod...s/category/14/

The threads may be wrong, but again not sure if these things are all the same given the application.

[wheming]

I found a couple that are metal, but the pressure switch values I wasn't sure we're the same. Guessing it's pretty close or consistent for the application?

https://nostalgicac.com/catalog/prod...s/category/14/

The threads may be wrong, but again not sure if these things are all the same given the application.

Jon, is this what you're looking for?


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[minigts]

That is the factory one, was hoping to find one in all metal. After our discussion, will probably have to get a new one and just thread on by hand. The oring was on the line, but I thought it needed more tightening than I should have given.

[wheming]

Given the diameter of this, I think it can be fully seated by hand. It should basically bottom out the threads. No reason to need any significant wrenching.

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[Aries_Turbo]

i have the same old school plastic one on my reliant. hand tight. where the o-ring seals is a taper so it doesnt take that much force to seal.

Brian