plastic bumper cover on 87 CSX repair

[chromguy]

I am looking for repair ideas for CSX bumper repair. I tried JB Clear weld and it worked for a few months.

[135sohc]

The plastic used for the bumper covers is TPO. Nothing epoxy wise will stick to it because of the waxy nature of the plastic, you gotta melt it back together.
https://www.polyvance.com/Bumper-Repair-Flow-Chart/
https://www.polyvance.com/step3c.php

I used their plasti-fix material to reconstruct the missing chunk of the CSX grille (ABS).

[chromguy]

The plastic used for the bumper covers is TPO. Nothing epoxy wise will stick to it because of the waxy nature of the plastic, you gotta melt it back together.
https://www.polyvance.com/Bumper-Repair-Flow-Chart/
https://www.polyvance.com/step3c.php

I used their plasti-fix material to reconstruct the missing chunk of the CSX grille (ABS).

Thank you

[chromguy]

Had anyone tried the heated wire staples for mechanical strength?

[ajakeski]

3M Panelbond Adhesive.

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pro...BoCXMgQAvD_BwE

[chromguy]

3M Panelbond Adhesive.

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pro...BoCXMgQAvD_BwE

3M makes great stuff
Thank you

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

if canadian tire still have it

"flexible auto body repair kit"

2 part epoxy intended for repairing split broken or fubar flexible auto body panels

it works..IT STICKS

AND IT STINKS TO HELL WHEN YOU SAND IT

thus wear a mask and do your sanding in the backyard as the garage WILL stink for days .. even weeks if you sand on this stuff inside

it comes with some nylon window screening in the kit for reinforcement but I liked using a second piece of body material or plastic behind the repair better ..with some holes drilled through for epoxy to pass through , over , around..

years back when I had my turismo with the four lamp front end I wanted a shelby charger airdam
,,,which needed to be shortened 3/4 inch at each side to fit and then bonded to each "cheek" panel that went on the fenders

like I said be sure to reinforce things at the back of the piece or your repair might split

.. and NOT KIDDING about the stink from the epoxy when you sand it..

also remember to champher or grind down the front side of your repair area or you'll never hide the repair..

the repair area must be ground down lower than the finished surface then filled back up & sanded - like fixing a hole in a wall .. the paint and surrounding material at the repair must be lower to allow a space for the filler to be applied over the repair

and for the record
THE ONLY WAY to get a front wheel drive dodge to look tuff is to build a charger or turismo with that 4 lamp front end..and the shelby charger airdam

it gains that "don't XXXX with me" look in the eyes that a 57 fury or 71 road runner has...yeah , seriously

seems it's changed since 90-91 ... the kit I had only had the two tubes of epoxy .. none of the other things shown here
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/b...-0475601p.html

one piece of advice .. do the repair and wait to paint it a few weeks .. allow some time for the repair to "prove" it's self first .. then worry about painting it

["Top Fuel" Bender]

Had anyone tried the heated wire staples for mechanical strength?

I bought one off Amazon
works great so far
I fixed the air box in the wife's Jetta (wanted to play with the new toy)
and the plastics on my Banshee
the flushcut off pliers that came in my kit are junk
I found it best to bend the wire back and forth to have it snap right below the surface

I was thinking of trying it on the Charger when I get to that step

[chromguy]

Thanks Guys for the input