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Thread: PT Rear hub conversion

  1. #1
    Super Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff 135sohc's Avatar
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    PT Rear hub conversion

    Yesterday I did the annual rear wheel bearings clean out and repack. For reasons I still dont know why the P-S hub was full of rust and the D-S was slightly better but still not really great. I always expect the grease to get a little nasty on the back side next to the seal but not totally watered out. Between the chinese made 'dust cap' on the front side that is complete crap and does not seal like OE and the rear wheel seal that does not seal well it is a losing battle.

    In 300,000 miles I have changed the rear (sealed) hubs on my 2003 Concorde once. And in all reality they were probably still fine. The old school design and mentality of being able to service everything has its place but sealed hubs also have their place. My existing hubs having been serviced before are not the most pristine condition from having the races knocked out and replaced a few times already.

    Checking things out the rear drum on the PT cruiser is the same one used on our old school stuff. Which I already knew the Neon rear drum was the same as the P body rear drum.

    The PT spindle is a bolt on deal like our old stuff.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Mop...oAAOSw9nVffMuT

    Seriously tempted to hit the bone yard and start looking further. Anyone ever looked into this ?
    1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 400,000 miles. "the science experiment"
    1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore ?

  2. #2
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: PT Rear hub conversion

    I know people have looked into it. I believe some have used the 1st Gen Neon rear brakes, but I don't know if anyone has tried to use the hub.

  3. #3
    turbo addict
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    Re: PT Rear hub conversion

    Interested to see where this might go...

  4. #4

    Re: PT Rear hub conversion

    Quote Originally Posted by 135sohc View Post
    Yesterday I did the annual rear wheel bearings clean out and repack. For reasons I still dont know why the P-S hub was full of rust and the D-S was slightly better but still not really great. I always expect the grease to get a little nasty on the back side next to the seal but not totally watered out. Between the chinese made 'dust cap' on the front side that is complete crap and does not seal like OE and the rear wheel seal that does not seal well it is a losing battle.

    In 300,000 miles I have changed the rear (sealed) hubs on my 2003 Concorde once. And in all reality they were probably still fine. The old school design and mentality of being able to service everything has its place but sealed hubs also have their place. My existing hubs having been serviced before are not the most pristine condition from having the races knocked out and replaced a few times already.

    Checking things out the rear drum on the PT cruiser is the same one used on our old school stuff. Which I already knew the Neon rear drum was the same as the P body rear drum.

    The PT spindle is a bolt on deal like our old stuff.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Mop...oAAOSw9nVffMuT

    Seriously tempted to hit the bone yard and start looking further. Anyone ever looked into this ?
    It looks the same. What I found on the Concorde LHS swap I did was that the bolt pattern for the spindle is larger tham ours. But that is a larger car and probably the reason because it is also 5x4.5/114.3. The Stratus seemed to be the same as well, but I never tested it.
    [SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]

  5. #5
    Garrett booster
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    Re: PT Rear hub conversion

    For what it's worth, I have SRT-4 brakes all around on my LeBaron. It's using the SRT-4 spindle, but the spindle was ground a little and modified to fit, but the bolt pattern is the same. It was great when I had a bearing go bad, grabbed an SRT-4 one, bolted it on, tightened it down, ready for 100K miles again.

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