https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Free-Shippin....c100008.m2219
maybe it fits .. maybe not .. we'll find out in a week or so -ish when it gets here...
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Free-Shippin....c100008.m2219
maybe it fits .. maybe not .. we'll find out in a week or so -ish when it gets here...
let us know
Regards,
Miles
DD '87 Sundance T1, SLH with rear disks
'87 CSX #432 2.5 CB TII, SLH
well do
thinkin ..in the daylight (cough) the gap between the hex and the thread might be an issue even if it fits
I was looking for the butterfly / thumbscrew I saw in a video on an '83 Perkins 2.2 diesel ford ranger ..but "no joy"
and...it's smaller than the plug at the t-stat
however I suppose if you can't get that plug out you could drill the center out of the plug & tap it for this to fit...then
so kinda useless .. nice they sent two for some reason
Well if its a 3/8ths" NPT, it will fit. Been using one like it for 30 years in my cars. That steel plug in an aluminum head is icky. Stainless plug works too, at least you can get them out. Best best to remove them is get the car up to operating temp and try to remove them. They drill out easy enough. Done that many times without damaging threads. 1/4" NTP thumb screws are very common, its the 3/8" NPT ones that are tougher to find. Air compressor drains sometimes come with 3/8" thumbscrews. That is what is installed on this engine attached below.
thanks Todd
I've seen the pet---- used before .. was kinda trying to avoid it ..
the plug is stuck in my cylinder head but I don't want to try to hard to remove it .. I'd rather just drill the thing out , or most of it
not a great loss I can use these for my water cooled computer .. it still needs a drain of some sort
the head's not on a motor and is waiting to be built with my parts so sticking it under my little drill press is easy enough
the front of my cylinder head looks like new so I don't wanna mess with it to much
I've resisted the brass wool and aluminum polish .. for now..the "SOS" pad left it looking almost polished
I use these and they work great. Hardest part is removing the crap steel pipe plug. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Last edited by gkcooper; 04-05-2021 at 07:09 PM. Reason: add picture
i used to use a right angle flare fitting with a small valve hooked to a hose that went back into the oveflow so i could periodically burp off air during initial fill/startup.
since I now have a stuck steel plug of death and dont want to bother with it, i use this:
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-8700...dp/B01A2CQSU6/
i let it fan cycle many times and squeeze the upper hose and rev the engine some here and there. no issues getting the air out.
then i put the plug in and pull it off and drain the excess into the overflow.
Brian
Originally Posted by turbovanman
wait.. I think I figured a much better plan..
https://www.socalnorthwest.com/store...-1-2-62658-3-8
so , back to needing a spacer for the T-stat and housing so the temp probe can thread in and clear the T-stat