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Thread: How to Modify A413 for More Power

  1. #21
    Garrett booster
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    Re: How to Modify A413 for More Power

    What would be the symptoms of a transmission with line pressure set too low?
    just trying to figure out how to calibrate using the butt dyno.

  2. #22
    Boost, it's what's for dinner... Turbo Mopar Staff Aries_Turbo's Avatar
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    Re: How to Modify A413 for More Power

    sloppy shifts that are at a lower RPM than normal.

    Brian

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman
    This one is easy, I have myself to blame, I rush things, don't pay attention to gauges when I should, change to much stuff at once then expect miracles, the list is endless.

  3. #23
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    Re: How to Modify A413 for More Power

    Okay, Part II!!!

    First, let's talk about drill bits. You can't just drill holes with your typical Home Depot drill bit set. Buy yourself a Titanium High Speed Steel NUMBERED Drill Bit Set from HF. You'll be using a #56 which measures .047 as mentioned in BB Mini's thread.


    That #56 bit is too small for a normal drill. So bust out your trustee Dremel with the correct collet.


    Other Tools: Angle grinder, digital caliper, lots and lots of patience, your favorite beverage.
    Supplies: 1/4 steel rod measuring 1.465" long (cut it with patience).


    Step 17: Find the right cavity for the #56 and drill baby drill. Light pressure is the name of the game. You don't want to mar the inside surface of the valve.


    Step 18: Clean and blowout the chips. I used Brakleen and a blow gun. Here is what the hole looks like from the other size.


    Step 19: Now you can take your normal drill bits and drill out these holes on this plate to a bigger size (1/8th in or .30mm for you cool kids). Clean them up and using Brakleen and air gun.



    Step 20: Remove this plate



    Step 21: Remove Shuttle Valve Cap


    Step 22: Remove Shuttle Valve Spring


    Step 23: REPLACE that Shuttle Valve Spring with that spring with 1/4in steel rod measuring 1.475in long. Put cap back on.

    Step 24: Place one of the ball bearings you removed from the valve body inside the Bypass Valve Spring. (Don't freak out about using that ball bearing)


    Step 25: Put that plate back on


    Step 26: Place the valve body on its side again and install the ball bearing. Note that we are leaving one of them out (see I told you not to freak out).



    I didn't read this anywhere, but I did lube those slides valves with ATF using a turkey baster. Maybe it wasn't necessary, but I did anyways.

    Step 27: Put the valve body back together by reversing steps 11-16. BUT DO NOT PUT IT BACK IN THE TRANSMISSION YET.


    We still have to block the accumulator :-)

  4. #24
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    Re: How to Modify A413 for More Power

    Step 28: Let's not forget to replace the rear strut with the beefier piece: https://www.transmissionpartsusa.com...-003271001.htm
    Back off that 13mm slightly and then loosen that bolt with finger. Note the placement of that lock nut before you loosen it.

    Step 29: Here are the two passages Joe Dzwil mentioned to block. Very straightforward. A M10 1.5 Tap works perfectly. I cut down 2 bolts and cut slots on the top to make these bolts flush.

    Joe's Guide

  5. #25
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    Re: How to Modify A413 for More Power

    does anyone have a good picture of a homemade version of that Miller tool used to compress the direct clutch return spring?



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