I mostly use Red Locite 262 that is 30 years old that I apply to the seals. I would guess the red Mopar gel would work.
In addition, I place a vacuum on the system afterwards and squeeze a wee bit of the liquid on the edge of the assembles seals. If there is a leak, the vacuum will haul it in. The vacuum will cause the loctite to harden. Wipe up the excess after complete.
Last edited by chromguy; 06-05-2020 at 08:36 AM.
Regards,
Miles
DD '87 Sundance T1, SLH with rear disks
'87 CSX #432 2.5 CB TII, SLH
i used 272 high temp/high strength on mine. i blobbed it on both sides of the gasket for the drier and snugged that side up. then i used a pair of vise grips on the end away from the nuts and crimped it down while i ran the nut on with a small dewalt impact (the drill sized one) till tight then double checked with a wrench. then i blobbed the other drier side gasket and snugged that side up. then i crimped it down while i ran the nut on with the impact.
the gap where the seal sits is nice and even with a thin layer of loctite oozing out.
i used some 272 on the seals for the TXV and the evaporator too. my compressor hoses have orings and my condenser has oring threaded fittings so those just got a little ester oil.
Brian
Originally Posted by turbovanman
Uh, youre not supposed to put anything on flat seals, they're supposed to go on dry. If its not sealing then you have an issue with sealing surface or clamping that needs to be addressed. O rings should be lubed with refrigerant oil and nothing else, you dont want anything in your A/C system except refrigerant and oil. I do a lot of A/C work at the dealership, my a/c work doesnt come back.
i bet if you had to do a bunch of turbo chrysler receiver drier replacements at work you'd have some come back. that design is terrible.
dont care. it works. i dont put enough on to contaminate the system. you arent supposed to use computer duster either. yet ive been using it for years and it works great. overkill for life yo!
Brian
Originally Posted by turbovanman
O.K my turn!!
Is the computer duster similar to Red Tek etc?
I'd never have working A/C on my cars if not for that stuff.
Thanks
Randy
There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.
Randy Hicks
86 GLHS60
86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
89 Turbo Minivan
83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
Edmonton,Alberta,Canada
In theory, you are right and I agree. In practice, on the turbo-mopar AC I agree with Brian. If you have a look at the dryer is is a terrible design from a mechanical engineering standpoint.
Crusty, the loctite polymerizes and forms a hard plastic at the refrigerant interface. This provides the seal and is stable and it does not appear to contaminate the system.
Prior to Loctite, I could not keep a charge in the AC for longer than a week. I feel this is a better solution than the AC stop leak goop.
Regards,
Miles
DD '87 Sundance T1, SLH with rear disks
'87 CSX #432 2.5 CB TII, SLH
Regards,
Miles
DD '87 Sundance T1, SLH with rear disks
'87 CSX #432 2.5 CB TII, SLH
The last kit of seals I got for mine had O-rings and a stamped retainer at the receiver-dryer. The H valve to evaporator and to the line pair seemed to have more ridges than I had seen in the past. Since I installed a complete later system, I have the newer compressor and added a high pressure fan switch from a 1993 Grand Caravan to kick my pusher fan system into high mode if needed.
FWIW, I recently did a major overhaul on a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 with the Cummins turbodiesel. The AC lines on that are Ford style, 3 O-rings and a garter spring retainer, then a safety retainer over the joint, difference is, Ford's is metal, the Dodge ones are plastic.
If my receiver drier connections ever leak, I'll just modify the lines (again lol) and change them over to #6 threaded oring connections and use the universal receiver drier that came with my condenser. It has a sight glass too which would be nice.
Brian
Originally Posted by turbovanman
Well, I used my new JE industries vacuum pump, gauge set, and can adapter today to successfully get my 95 Neon up and running with AC. I didn't have a thermometer, but I put in a little over 2 cans of duster in and the AC blows ice cold. I know this system leaks down over the course of a couple months. With how cheap duster is, I'll just fill it up a couple times a year and call it good. I did hear some pressure released when I removed the cap on the high side connector, so I'm sure a new schrader valve would do wonders. I'm going to assess the minivan AC system after lunch to see where I stand with it. I have all the stuff to do the compressor and drier, so those will go on regardless.
Well, for every bit of success with the Neon, the Minivan seems to be as much of a disaster.
I'll have a video up ASAP of what the compressor sounded like. I thought it may have been the bearing on the tensioner since it hadn't been used in forever. I think it's actually the compressor making a pretty horrific noise.
Things which may help you guys help me in this time of frustration are as follows.
1. I just removed the connections at the expansion valve, receiver/dryer, and the compressor.
2. Some oil leaked out of the hoses, but not much. I only got about 2oz of oil out of the old compressor, but chalked it up to a leak at some point.
3. I drained the supplied 3oz out of the new compressor and put 7oz of ester oil with UV dye in it when I put it on the van.
4. The AC clutch didn't engage at all until I reversed the connection on the pressure switch. I wouldn't have thought the direction would matter on those.
5. As soon as the compressor kicked on it took a can of dustoff in pretty quickly, but on the second can the low pressure side ended up at 80 or 90psi while the high side was over 200psi pretty quickly. I estimate that less than half of the 2nd can actually went into the system.
Any ideas?
ETA: Tried to turn the compressor some when I first got it and it was very difficult to do. I got it all the way around once perhaps. I didn't know how difficult it should be. I put a socket on the front of it and turned it to see how freely it would move after hearing the horrible noise, and it was difficult to move with the ratchet, but there weren't any bad noises or difference in drag as I turned.
Last edited by cordes; 06-07-2020 at 09:06 PM.
The video will be live here in a bit.
https://youtu.be/1l7O1Hz-I1o
ETA: Since this noise is being made while the clutch is disengaged, and the pulley didn't make the noise when I spun it by hand, I'm guessing it probably is the tensioner? I'm learning a lot about AC these days for sure...
Last edited by cordes; 06-08-2020 at 07:37 AM.
Regards,
Miles
DD '87 Sundance T1, SLH with rear disks
'87 CSX #432 2.5 CB TII, SLH
I agree. My Neon was pumping out 40F air and I had around 30PSI on the low side with 180ish on the high side. I'm pretty confused by this whole deal right now. I do think I need to change the pulley first thing and see if that was the noise.