Is there any way to test the ASD relay on an 86 New Yorker turbo car? From what I have read, I believe that it's part of the PM on this car.
Is there any way to test the ASD relay on an 86 New Yorker turbo car? From what I have read, I believe that it's part of the PM on this car.
You're correct. I assume the car won't start? Will it prime the pump? If it primes the pump, the ASD should not be totally dead.
The car has become hard to start. I replaced the LM with a new one and the PM with a spare I had laying around, because it would just quit like I had shut off the key. Sometimes it would start back up, sometimes it would not. I noticed that when it would quit, there was no spark. It sputters like it's not getting enough fuel, but once it fires, it seems to run okay. Fuel pump maybe?
It could be the fuel pump. I would run a jumper wire from the + battery terminal to the + side of the coil. That will energize the pump. You can also do that with a fuel pressure gauge hooked up and the return line pinched off. It should generate 80-100PSI in the gauge if it's good.
Thanks, I will try that. I do have a new pump, but the weather has been uncooperative, so I haven't been able to swap it.
Next question... Is there a way to bypass the ASD altogether?
Can you? Sure. It's just a relay.
Read the below links and get an understanding how ASD does what it does.
http://www.minimopar.net/ecu/pm-1985-turbo.html
http://www.minimopar.net/ecu/asd_re.html
Forgive my many questions, I'm just trying to understand the systems. Is it conceivable that the PM could still be ok and yet the ASD relay inside it be bad or intermittent? Is it possible to use an ASD relay from a vehicle that has it separate from the PM and wire it into the existing harness or should I just bite the bullet and buy a reman PM? All input and info is greatly appreciated.
The ASD relay could be bad, while the rest of the board is good. I just put in new PMs, but I have a couple spares, so it's not a big deal. Unfortunately, only a couple times has the problem been the PM for me. It's usually some other intermittent problem. That's why I don't go through the trouble of wiring an external relay in.
I have been dealing with the issue of intermittent spark for months now. I installed a new coil, a new LM, I've checked the connections to the LM and PM. I replaced the PM with a spare that I had (not sure that the spare was good). After installing the LM it was very hard to start. It sputtered and tried and eventually started. I drove it around for about 15 minutes and it seemed to run fine. I brought it home and shut it off and when I went to start it 20 minutes later, I got the same hard to start sputtering. I haven't driven or run it enough to know if my stalling condition is gone, I just know that I'm getting fed up with it. When it would die, it had no spark every time. When it ran, it would run beautifully. I have a new fuel pump to install and next week I will order a new PM. If that doesn't fix it, then it's time for a new daily driver.
Last edited by elmor353; 04-25-2020 at 08:11 PM.
I've had ignition switches fail and cause similar problems. Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you flip the key on, but it won't start? Have you tested for power in the bus that shares power when the key is flipped to start or run under the dash? My switch finally died for good the first time I had this issue and it took a while before I traced the problem back to the ign switch.
I haven't checked for power in the bus. It's possible that the fuel pump isn't priming now. I used to hear it very pronounced before, don't remember hearing it the last time I tried to start it. I have a new pump, as well as a new ignition switch, just haven't had mother nature's cooperation so I can install it. Might be able to at least get the new switch in today, seeing as it's not pouring out right now.
I don't sounds like a problem with spark.
What's the fuel pressure when cranking? If you don't know, that is where I would start.
I don't believe it's a fuel issue at this point. I can hear the fuel pump prime and stop when it builds pressure. Every time it shuts down, there is no spark. I've checked it multiple times.
Have you tested the inputs to the coil when this happens? I had a car that had an issue in the wiring harness. I managed to get the car to point where I could gently push on the wiring harness and get the car to run or die at will. Replaced that section of the harness and have not had a problem since...
It's become intermittent as well. Left me sitting on the side of the road again and when I ran a jumper wire from the battery+ to the coil+, the pump would not run.
I really think Todd is on to something with the Z1 circuit since you lose spark and fuel at the same time. The two together are huge in telling you that the problem is most likely under the hood. Unfortunately, the Z1 circuit runs every which way to power all sorts of good stuff. Do you need wiring diagrams at all? Do you have access to the pictures showing the splice locations which are a pain to get to?
Either on to something, or on something (lol)
That Z1 circuit is wired goofy if you ask me (at least on the l-bodies, and probably more). In lieu of a splice, Chrysler doubled up that wire at the bulkhead connector so it can be routed in a different direction in the engine bay. That is just strange to me. Found it several times now to be a problem.
Todd
How many splices are in that circuit? I think there's roughly one by the battery, one at the injectors, and perhaps another one somewhere near the coil? I don't mean to sound like a downer, but there's a lot of chasing down one might theoretically need to do under the hood with that circuit. Fortunately, I think it will probably be at the firewall, or perhaps the connectors behind the battery. Something in a branch that would kill both the coil and fuel pump must be before the smaller splices I would think.