Now I run the 2.4 block, I thought I read it needed very little clearance on the case.
Now I run the 2.4 block, I thought I read it needed very little clearance on the case.
That may be true. I think there is more clearance for the 2.4.
I talked to Gary at Peloquin he’s on board for me sending diff in to make it direct swap for 3 speed. I just wish ptu ratio was a more common ratio.
Having a KL Cherokee 4x4 now, I wondered how well that could swap into one of the car bodystyles. With the 3.2 v6 being like 271hp, I wondered how the driveline would handle about 350hp, and in a lighter body. Or, swap the 3.6 in it's place and get better torque.
I've only got like 3500 miles on mine, so I haven't really even got on it hard yet. But it moves pretty good in normal mode. I bet sport mode is punchier.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6000 using Tapatalk
Wayne H.
'91 Dodge Spirit ES 2.5L turbo 5spd
'05 PT GT 2.4T HO autostick (RIP)
'89 Plymouth Acclaim 2.5L turbo auto, "Slugmobile" yes, THE Slugmobile!
'89 Dodge Caravan SE 2.5L turbo auto, "Mean Mini" yes, Gus' Mean Mini! (Current best 11.699 @ 114.43 mph! - Oct 15th, 2022 Cecil County Dragway, MD)
MeanMini dragracing videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...URZLB1RxGYF6vw
and other cars, trucks and motorcycles
https://www.youtube.com/user/SlugmobileMeanMini
I don't follow? Why would he make OBX/Quaife parts? He will make anything if the money is right. If I have him make the AWD diff for the 3-speed auto, I will be putting $6000 up. Hes not going to do everything and sit on 10 units.
The only difference between the regular diff and the AWD diff is that the case on the right side has the drive splines for the PTU and the larger bearing/seal surfaces. I have looked at it over and over and there's no way to simply "add" that on. So, if just that side of the thing was made and could accommodate the already existing guts, I would think that would cut down on cost and labor.
If that's all that is needed, then that's the route gary will go. He just wanted a sample piece in his hand. But the 41TE is taller end to end when compared to the 3 speed correct? Does the large bearing/adapter fit into the 3 speed passenger case bore?
I believe the 41TE is taller due to a thicker FD ring gear. It's been a while since I've read up on this. There was a thread about adapting the OBX to the 413 a long time ago.
I honestly don't know if it is the same bore size. I *think* so, because it fits the 5-speed cases without modification from what I remember. You just have to drill/tap 1 or 2 holes for the bolts. Crap...I gotta go read that thread again! LOL Maybe Brent and I can much with it some. He has at least 1 A670 and a number of 5-speeds.
I need to get my hands on an adapter and do some fitting. More than likely will have to reproduce them so I’m not searching junk yards.
OK, so Friday afternoon I went and re-read a bunch of the AWD threads. Carlos bored out the bearing retainer, but I think that's because he used a 5-speed one instead of the AWD one for some reason. I am still a little lost on that. The bolt holes on the retainer/adapter don't line up to the case, so those need drilled, but that's not a big deal.
Seems like the 3.0 V6 works with the van PTU with a little interference, but not bad. The 2.4 needed some clearancing, but also not bad. It seems the 2.2/2.5 is the "problem child". If the weather ever frigging breaks, I'll give it a go. I am SO done with the d@mn rain!
Yea my understanding was he bored the driver side retain due to the larger bearing. Nothing stated about pass side for the awd adapter.
Apparently it depends on the year or some other difference. My 93 AWD diff worked with out modifying the transmission case beyond drilling the new holes for the PTU mount/bearing housing.
Here's a pic of how much I had to relieve the block for the lump on the back of the caravan PTU to clear.
Thanks for sharing that! I was always curious how much grinding had to be done. That honestly doesn't scare me all that bad. I am really curious about the 2.2/2.5 block. If the weather stays clear this weekend I might actually try it. I have a junk block specifically for doing mock-up stuff I can use and grind on with no fear.
I know that Carlos said the 2.2 block was a no go but I never tried it, my plan was to go 2.4 all along. Hopefully I get some things sorted out this year and can get this project rolling again.
I'm trying to get my shop built at my house this year, then plan to focus on making a awd setup for the car. I just don't think I can make both happen. I'll at least get the LSD figured out for the 3 speed auto.
Should have said this thread was going
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
Keep the info going. I have no plans of using the rear OEM rear end. I plan to make a custom 300m shaft for the pass-axle, so that its a two design that the cv bolts to.