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Thread: PSA: Check your connectors thoroughly

  1. #1
    Super Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff 135sohc's Avatar
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    PSA: Check your connectors thoroughly

    I have been dealing with an intermittent cut out issue for the past several months. A few weeks ago it was so severe as to leave me stuck on the side of the road. The engine backfired so hard as to cause the timing belt to jump.


    I ended up finding a few suspect points of concern and reconfigured the fusible link distribution method to ensure a solid power feed. Replaced the 60 way connector as several of the locking tangs inside were broken away and replaced several wires going into it. Everything was good to go and it ran solid... until this morning. Made it to the end of the street and for a moment I thought I stalled it. Hit the key and it was no-start.


    pop the hood, wiggled some wires and it fired up... drove back to the dry-dock and naturally it was 'fixed' yet again. No amount of jarring the harness could make it break up or cut out.


    Against my better judgement I decided to go to work taking the Shadow and of course it ran just fine the entire way there... Going to leave this afternoon was a trying experience but we made it back to the dry-dock.


    Figuring the coil was the last thing I have not screwed with I got out an OEM original (Denso made in Japan) used coil from my collection-o-junk. Maybe 2-3 years ago I made a short adapter pigtail to retain the original coil connector and use a Deutsche connector to rejoin it to harness or to allow for it to be unplugged and an extension harness be used for reaching the old conventional style oil filled coil mounted on the inner fender. The car as built came with the E-core style coil mounted on the t-stat water box.


    With the coil removed and the short pigtail adapter still with it I decided to scrutinize that connection. With the wires removed from the connector and the pins/wires inserted onto the male terminals inside the coil it became apparent immediately there was a problem. The female terminals were totally sprung and had zero grab onto the matching male terminals on the coil.


    Around the late 90's Chrysler figured out these round style terminals were a problem and rapidly got rid of them. Except for a few legacy applications that would be extremely $$$ to re-do like the solenoid pack connectors on the ultradrive automatics (604/606). The Apex 2.8 series (or others similar to it) in the flat pin/socket design configuration are much more durable and do not have this issue.


    I found some pins/sockets in my collection-o-junk and redid the adapter pigtail as a temporary fix. The aftermarket sockets are no where near the quality of OE, the OE sockets look just like the 60 way ones but are about 50% larger on the ID/OD.


    The upgrade to the 1999+ coil and connector will be coming ASAP. Typing all this out I cannot be certain this was the problem all along but seeing/feeling how loose those terminals were making contact.. it would jive.
    1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 355,000 miles. (In the family since new).
    1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore.

  2. #2
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: PSA: Check you connectors thoroughly

    So, the Deutsche connector failed if I'm reading that correctly?

  3. #3
    Super Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff 135sohc's Avatar
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    Re: PSA: Check you connectors thoroughly

    The oem connector failed.

    Edit: It looks similar to this one. (That is the oil pressure switch)

    http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....WUdXibu%2BAwEN
    1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 355,000 miles. (In the family since new).
    1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore.

  4. #4
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: PSA: Check you connectors thoroughly

    Quote Originally Posted by 135sohc View Post
    The oem connector failed.

    Edit: It looks similar to this one. (That is the oil pressure switch)

    http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....WUdXibu%2BAwEN
    Oh, those are pretty horrible in the long run. I've had several make questionable connections over the years.

  5. #5
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor 85lebaront2's Avatar
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    Re: PSA: Check you connectors thoroughly

    That is another one that there are no aftermarket replacement pins for. I had several salvage ones from various vehicles and finally found two, on for the dual oil pressure sender and one for the later coil on my konvertible. Haven't got it on the road yet, but it starts and runs reliably and I have done the "wiggle test" as Ford calls it, shake and tap all connectors while it's running and had no problems. I used a 1991 harness from a Shadow turbo 2.5L convertible and even used as much of the front engine harness as I could cut out of it so I am using the later engine to chassis weather pack connectors instead of the greased open style of the 1986 models.
    "growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional"
    1986 Lebaron convertible to replace totalled 85
    1986 Ford F350 Crew Cab DRW
    1995 Lincoln Continental (project car)
    2011 Ford Flex Limited (wife's)

  6. #6
    Super Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff 135sohc's Avatar
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    Re: PSA: Check your connectors thoroughly

    Once upon a time you could get those pins in the dorman 'help' packs and they were actually probably OEM sourced. Then they went off shore and the quality was terrible.

    A coil for a 1998+ 3.9/5.2/5.9 or 4.0 is a direct swap and the connector for the later coil is readily available for around $20. Easy upgrade and permanent fix. The TPS and MAP sensor both use them also or something similar and they are next on my replacement list, to use the 1990 and older MAP & TPS that use weatherpack connections.
    1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 355,000 miles. (In the family since new).
    1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore.

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