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Thread: Hybrid 2.5L TIII build

  1. #21
    Hybrid booster Turbo Mopar Contributor 85lebaront2's Avatar
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    Re: Hybrid 2.5L TIII build

    Ok, so I need to find a 1995-99 Neon 2.0L DOHC in a junkyard, fan will not be an issue, I have a modified Ford Contour fan set (changed to pushers) in front of my condenser and radiator/intercooler to hopefully solve the problem I had with my 1985 when I tried to run R134a in it. The compressor ate belts in our hot humid summer weather, so I went back to R12 and never had a problem.

    The Hybrid is a "down the road" idea that may or may not be feasible.

  2. #22
    boostaholic Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Hybrid 2.5L TIII build

    I have a SBR exhaust manifold I can let go for cheap if you're looking to go with an external wastegate (38mm). I have the wastegate relocation flange on it to turn it 90.
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    Nick G. 1984 Dodge Rampage

  3. #23
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor jonnymopar's Avatar
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    Re: Hybrid 2.5L TIII build

    Quote Originally Posted by Nemesismachine View Post
    I have a SBR exhaust manifold I can let go for cheap if you're looking to go with an external wastegate (38mm). I have the wastegate relocation flange on it to turn it 90.
    Not trying to piss on a potential sale, but I believe he has a stock T2 turbo, which would have the irregular mounting flange.
    Jon J.

    1989 Daytona ES 2.4L DOHC
    2003 Neon SXT - gone but never forgotten

    If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is!

  4. #24
    Hybrid booster Turbo Mopar Contributor 85lebaront2's Avatar
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    Re: Hybrid 2.5L TIII build

    Yes I do, and the SRT4 integrated turbo already checked over. I stuck it on the mocked up 2.5L short block today, as I wanted to make sure the setup will clear the firewall heat shield on the K-car, just barely, from back edge of right mount engine bracket to a straight edge held against the furthest back part of the turbo is 14", same point to the actual firewall is 15". Thankfully, due to Chrysler's mount system design the engine doesn't roll back to much under power, it more seems to squat down some.

  5. #25
    Hybrid booster Turbo Mopar Contributor 85lebaront2's Avatar
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    Re: Hybrid 2.5L TIII build

    The stuff came with a set of ARP studs, hardened washers and 12 point nuts. Studs are M11X1.5 on the block end, and 7/16-20 at the head end and have a 3/16" hex socket in the head end. The center of the studs is smaller diameter than the ends, a tad under 3/8". The block end has a raised ridge just above the threads that is 10.9mm OD, this fits nicely into the small relief on the 2.5L block. This means that any aligning dowel would have to be split so it could go over the threads and ridge then go snugly around the main body of the stud.
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  6. #26
    turbo addict
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    Re: Hybrid 2.5L TIII build

    looking at the deck surface of the head I have to ask why not just drill it for the original alignment pins already in the block now

    no , you don't have to drill as deep as the 2.2 head and yes you could cut some off the top of the pins

    the pins don't need to be much more than 2-3 times the thickness of the gasket and the drill holes in the head don't need to be much more than a sharp sided dimple to ensure a mechanical "fit"

    then you know for sure everything's lined up as you made sure of your hole placement, & the pins and location holes give you a fixed reference to assure you it's fitted right from the get go

    also , I seem to remember something-something posted about necked down arp studs having an issue but I don't remember in what motors

    you might wanna ask at FWD P or TU about that to be safe
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    Last edited by Dr. Johny Dodge; 10-31-2019 at 12:13 AM.

  7. #27
    Hybrid booster Turbo Mopar Contributor 85lebaront2's Avatar
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    Re: Hybrid 2.5L TIII build

    Good point, I had thought about doing that but wasn't sure if it was a good idea or not. On the studs, the tap drill for the M11X1.5 thread is 3/8" and for the 7/16-20 is .3906 so the stud is essentially as big as the root diameter of the block threads and from my experience in materials testing it shouldn't be an issue. I have the ARP head and main cap studs along with the rod bolts in my present T2 engine. Unfortunately there are no numbers on the studs, but they may be the same as the ones I have in the T2 engine, I will compare them with the head bolts I pulled out of the 2.5L engine.

    On the dowel pins, might work, I know from some measurements I made that they will probably go through the deck area and probably into the water jacket. Does anyone have the compressed thickness of the MLS head gasket?

  8. #28
    Boost, it's what's for dinner... Turbo Mopar Staff Aries_Turbo's Avatar
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    Re: Hybrid 2.5L TIII build

    Screw those stupid --- 2.2/2.5 dowels. Those damn things have gouged many a fire ring when taking a head off and putting them on so that the head needed to be decked. They suck.

    Brian
    Last edited by Aries_Turbo; 10-31-2019 at 11:17 PM.

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman
    This one is easy, I have myself to blame, I rush things, don't pay attention to gauges when I should, change to much stuff at once then expect miracles, the list is endless.

  9. #29
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Hybrid 2.5L TIII build

    Quote Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo View Post
    Screw those stupid --- 2.2/2.5 dowels. Those damn things have gouged many a fire ring when taking a head off and putting them on so that the head needed to be decked. They suck. Brian
    Do you have an alternate solution?
    I have engines with both Studs and classic bolts..
    Regards,
    Miles

    DD '87 Sundance T1, SLH with rear disks
    '87 CSX #432 2.5 CB TII, SLH

  10. #30
    Hybrid booster Turbo Mopar Contributor 85lebaront2's Avatar
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    Re: Hybrid 2.5L TIII build

    If I have studs in the block already, then the small dowel pins will only be for final alignment. I have a thought to try, but need to come up with a proper OD piece, then drill though and tap for the 7/16-20 thread and see if the piece will fit closely enough to serve as an alignment bushing.

  11. #31
    Boost, it's what's for dinner... Turbo Mopar Staff Aries_Turbo's Avatar
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    Re: Hybrid 2.5L TIII build

    Quote Originally Posted by chromguy View Post
    Do you have an alternate solution?
    I have engines with both Studs and classic bolts..
    i had a good idea for this thread about the hybrid neon headed motor as described above.

    for the stock 2.2 and 2.5 you just have to be super careful.

    im just saying dont use the 2.2/2.5 dowel pin setup on a hybrid motor and to try something else.

    Brian

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman
    This one is easy, I have myself to blame, I rush things, don't pay attention to gauges when I should, change to much stuff at once then expect miracles, the list is endless.

  12. #32
    turbo addict
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    Re: Hybrid 2.5L TIII build

    could put the pins in the head .. that solves the soft material getting gouged

  13. #33
    Hybrid booster Turbo Mopar Contributor 85lebaront2's Avatar
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    Re: Hybrid 2.5L TIII build

    Damn, were you reading my mind? I thought about the same thing and opening up the block holes slightly. From what I can determine the metal on the DOHC head is pretty thin in that area, so might create a water leak if they aren't sealed into the head.

  14. #34
    Garrett booster
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    Re: Hybrid 2.5L TIII build

    Quote Originally Posted by Nemesismachine View Post
    I have a SBR exhaust manifold I can let go for cheap if you're looking to go with an external wastegate (38mm). I have the wastegate relocation flange on it to turn it 90.
    Not to hijack buy whats the price on that manifold? if you still have it.

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