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Thread: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

  1. #1

    Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    I'm looking now and sure enough when I get done writing this post I'll find something. Has anyone done a swap from the stock fuse block to an aftermarket one? Preferably one that has crimp style terminals and not the screw down or ring terminals. Seems cheap and they are selling those for $130, was expecting something like that with terminals you crimp. There was a kit I found on Facebook, but don't remember the brand or how to find it. I'll post up if I do, but any suggestions or anything anyone has seen out they think looks decent?
    [SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]

  2. #2
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    There isn't much I've seen for the roll your own type guy. It's a disappointment that nobody makes a modular system for under hood and under dash installations. Well, one which takes known types of terminals and will have any support 5 min after the Chinese children are done cobbling them.

  3. #3
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    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)


  4. #4
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    https://www.wiringproducts.com/4-cir...use-block.html

    granted you would need a few .. but maybe that would work - for some

    https://www.google.com/search?q=auto...0ahUKEwiB4MiJl


    this link v shows some promise

    https://www.ozautoelectrics.com/circ...use-boxes.html


    maybe like ..https://www.ozautoelectrics.com/buss...on-relays.html
    this appears to have "push in" connections like a light switch for a house
    simple strip , twist , "tin" & push in ... nice , no crimps or terminals..
    Last edited by Dr. Johny Dodge; 09-15-2019 at 12:02 PM.

  5. #5

    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    Thank you for the input and links, still looking around. I found one that had plenty of fuses, but didn't have anything for the horn or flashers. I think I can get around that makeshift, so that isn't critical. And I want to get something I can crimp terminals onto like the Bussman one, so if I want to add fuses in the future I can. I'm still sifting through the pics, got side tracked and haven't had the time to really focus on what I want to go with, but the links help in my searching.

    Will post back up when I have a better idea of what I want to ultimately use, but any and all ideas are appreciated!
    [SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]

  6. #6
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    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    I can't stress this enough: Bussman, etc. publish engineering drawings of the parts. Make sure it fits where you want. Some of the RTMR products are DEEP once you add relays, etc. The engineering drawings do not take fuse and relay height and room for back feeding wires into consideration. Also the RTMR has bussed grounds / powers. Be mindful of it because you'll have to get creative if you buy one and don't plan for it. I have two RTMR's here. One with a bus ground I abandoned, and one that is just open pin holes. I tried it for the engine bay PDC. It works, but it's a little large and doesn't fit as nice as the OE one. There are a ton of options available to replace just about anything, but they are targeted towards heavy truck, ag, and equipment, where space is not a necessary consideration.

    Depending on number of circuits you need, there is also PDM60. http://pdm60.com
    Never played with one, but it looks neat.

    If you have a lot of room where you put it, there is the SSVEC from Eaton, which doesn't rear feed pins, and is slick. Freightliner uses them on their trucks.

  7. #7

    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    Quote Originally Posted by krut View Post
    I can't stress this enough: Bussman, etc. publish engineering drawings of the parts. Make sure it fits where you want. Some of the RTMR products are DEEP once you add relays, etc. The engineering drawings do not take fuse and relay height and room for back feeding wires into consideration. Also the RTMR has bussed grounds / powers. Be mindful of it because you'll have to get creative if you buy one and don't plan for it. I have two RTMR's here. One with a bus ground I abandoned, and one that is just open pin holes. I tried it for the engine bay PDC. It works, but it's a little large and doesn't fit as nice as the OE one. There are a ton of options available to replace just about anything, but they are targeted towards heavy truck, ag, and equipment, where space is not a necessary consideration.

    Depending on number of circuits you need, there is also PDM60. http://pdm60.com
    Never played with one, but it looks neat.

    If you have a lot of room where you put it, there is the SSVEC from Eaton, which doesn't rear feed pins, and is slick. Freightliner uses them on their trucks.
    That was my pain with one I saw. It was 9" long and while it wasn't tall, the fuse panel would HIT the firewall and I have no confidence the dash wouldn't somehow obscure it or be directly in the way once mounted. I also noticed a number of fuse blocks have a primary pole for power, but not every fuse in the fuse panel uses that, i.e., hazards and flashers and wipers. I found a few very simple fuse blocks that will more than likely work for what I need and I'll just have to rig up the flashers and hazards to work. My primary goal is to get something that allows expansion and overall number of available fuses. The factory count ins't bad (16 total, probably 12-14 actually in use), but in the event I want to break stuff out that is not dependent on other fuses I would like that ability to go beyond this number. 20 seems good and will more than likely suffice for the long haul, but depending on where I go with this car I don't want to have to do this again or if I do have a kit that offers 20 or 25 or 30 using the same pins so I can just lift and shift.
    [SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]

  8. #8

    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    I'm leaning towards this, https://www.waytekwire.com/item/4634...1-2-RTMR-Fuse/

    May just do remote hazard/flasher fuses and not worry about those being integrated into the fuse block like before.
    [SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]

  9. #9
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    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    I have one of those RTMR's actually. It's the one I used to replace the PDC up front. It takes up about the same space as that once it's all done. It may be a bit taller. If you're interested in trying it out let me know. I may be willing to let it go. I think it has one broken tang on it. With the non bussed unit, you can place it all in there. I don't know of a Metri-Pack flasher off hand, but I'm sure it exists. It does get tedious making loops for switched powers and grounds.


    What I did is relay off the main feed with a relay to a small blue sea fuse box for low amperage stuff. (All the gauges, boost controller, etc.) and have it hidden behind the center console. I can reach it somewhat easily.

    If size is a problem, it looks like GEP Products makes things like this: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/3855...ompact-24-Way/
    They go smaller, of course.

    There's a lot of neat stuff out there to look into. I think I've spent way too much time at work and home looking in product catalogs on PDMs, lol.

  10. #10

    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    I'm spending more time that I would like, but I also don't want to spend money on the wrong thing or regret any purchase for this, since I only want to have to do it once.

    I also thought about adding a smaller fuse area in the center console section, mounted somehow so I can get to it so I can add things in the future, which I know I will do. Probably wouldn't be hard to rig up a bracket that would hold the fuse block and like you say, it will be easier to get to than by the driver's kick panel. But I have wired gauges and the wideband up and this would make it easy to do the same for future gauges or any ancillary lighting I'd like to add. The link you posted is the kit I saw on Facebook, but wasn't sure the brand or name. If it isn't the modular one, there is a modular fuse and relay box that allows for growth by connecting additional fuse panels to it. Really cool stuff.
    [SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]

  11. #11

    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    This is another I just found that has relays as well as plenty of fuses.

    https://www.peerlesselectronics.com/...xm-fuse-holder
    [SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]

  12. #12
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    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    That's the HWB series. They also make smaller ones than the one you listed. So say you have like HWB16, which is a 16 pin box, etc. Some are made specifically for say 4 fuses.

    I haven't played with one, but it looks like a nice option where you have a space restriction and/or you can plan accordingly to what you want to add. It uses metripack configuration, which allows you to use the mating relays in the same box.

    The issue with any of these is the product minimum on pins / seals will nickel and dime you too death. The price quoted is usually just the plastic housing. Also, there is amperage restrictions on the circuit slot. So say, ~30a.
    You can offset this with high amperage relay housings if necessary. If it's for interior wiring, I doubt that will be an issue.

    Also: Things that are advertised online, eBay, etc. are usually the same products, but with the pins / seals needed to make the box work at a handsome markup.

  13. #13

    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    Well for the interior, the max currently in use is a 30 amp and since a good number of the wires are fused in line instead of a main feed that breaks out to each fuse, I don't anticipate I would need anything greater than that. But I did see the smaller ones that have house the larger amp fuses, so always an option to expand. I will also keep an eye on what comes with it, but thankfully it uses a common terminal. Hopefully I will make a decision this week so I can start messing with it and get the interior done, well part of it anyway.
    [SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]

  14. #14
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    DILL BLOX
    MODULAR POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS

    Allows for custom panel assembly. You order what you need. Can be expanded at any time.

    www.dillblox.com/
    Last edited by karlak; 09-23-2019 at 02:47 PM.

  15. #15

    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    Quote Originally Posted by karlak View Post
    DILL BLOX
    MODULAR POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS

    Allows for custom panel assembly. You order what you need. Can be expanded at any time.

    www.dillblox.com/
    THIS is the one I was thinking of. This has the flasher module and a micro relay module as well. Yeah, this one was really cool and expandable, very nice. Now I just need to see if it's going to price me out of the other one I posted but missing the flashers. That may make the difference just so I don't to have it all rigged up to work with the flasher relay.

    Thanks!!
    [SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]

  16. #16
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    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    That's really cool. I was thinking about how these are used on IH's. The fuse panel clips all together like relay holders. You can pop off / pop on pieces as needed. I always wondered if someone took the idea and ran with it.

  17. #17

    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    This is what I got quoted for everything I want. This does not include the terminals, but I think I can get a source for these for a decent price. Not horrible, but for having teh ability to migrate and keep all the module, minus the key in buzzer, I'd say it's the best option. Sorry for the formatting, total is on the last line.

    Item Quantity MFR MFG P/N Description / Comments Price /pc. Min. Mult. Delivery Stock NCNR ECCN HTS Code COO "Lead
    Free" RoHS
    1 10 FAR PT-059011-B DILL BLOX WEDGE RED 0.9 9 1 1 Stock 5160 Y EAR99 8536698000 Y Y
    2 2 FAR PT-059027-B DILL BLOX, FLASHER 3.8 7.6 1 1 Stock 1676 Y EAR99 8538908180 Y Y
    3 4 FAR PT-059224-B 8W MINI FUSE MOD 7.7 30.8 1 1 Stock 597 Y EAR99 8536698000 Y Y
    4 4 FAR PT-059239-B 2" MOUNTING LEG 3 12 1 1 Stock 421 Y EAR99 8538908180 Y Y
    5 1 FAR PT-059189-B DILL BLOX, 3X MICRO RELAY 4.9 4.9 1 1 Stock 167 Y EAR99 8538906000 Y Y
    6 1 FAR PT-059215-B DILL BLOX, BLANK 3.6 3.6 1 1 Stock 369 Y EAR99 8536698000 Y Y
    $67.90



    Btw, they only do singles with the part numbers above, but any of the part numbers listed are the ones in the catalog with PT and B appended to the beginning and end of the number.
    [SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]

  18. #18
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    That's not bad. It will be a lot better than trying to mix and match pre configured panels.

  19. #19

    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    Quote Originally Posted by krut View Post
    If you have a lot of room where you put it, there is the SSVEC from Eaton, which doesn't rear feed pins, and is slick. Freightliner uses them on their trucks.
    Does anybody make a pigtail wiring harness for this?

  20. #20
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: Interior Fuse Block Replacement (Aftermarket preferred)

    looking at the link I have to like the light bulb module..

    a light on the panel so you can see .. and visually check the fuse for being burnt

    ..."add to cart" lol

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