On knock control...
...only getting 11psi boost... Now I read on the slip of paper that came with the computer and it said make sure the timing is set at what the manual says( I think 14 degrees) well I bumped mine up ( 16 degrees I believe) I know it was 2 degrees more that it was supposed to. Could this be my problem?
YES.
The stock setting is 12 degrees.
The module monitors knock and will reduce boost if the knock persists. Remember that the knock system, on these vehicles, was primitive. Increased boost (even without spark knock), worn followers, higher lift cam, or an injector body that physically touches the manifold can generate "noise" that can be misinterpreted as knock. The sensor accuracy was not good enough to be able to differentiate between these "noise makers".
Why even bring this up?
Add some boost...
An increase in combustion chamber pressure (higher boost) can produce an increase in audible combustion chamber noise. Simply placing an oscilloscope on a knock sensor circuit or monitoring knock voltage with a scan tool, at two different boost levels, will indicate this.
Add some timing...
As the combustion chamber pressure increases, the desire for higher spark advance decreases. Not until a proper/higher octane fuel is utilized, will the engine benefit from higher spark advance.
BTW: With 100+ octane, it is still possible to knock (detonate). Too much spark advance, via the distributor OR calibration, can result in broken pistons, failed head gaskets, etc..
Consider the computer control...
The boost, spark, and knock are all manipulated (or monitored) by the computer. In this case, 1987 electronics are in use. If knock is detected,
AND timing is retarded (by the module)
AND the timing reduction amount reaches a specific level
AND knock still persists..
THE BOOST WILL BE DE-RATED.
In this case, to a level that is currently being observed. All this CAN occur, without ever hearing audible knock.
Possible fix:
Place the timing at 12 degrees and try another test run.
** Consider resetting the module, at this time. This will reset the learned/stored values, that may have been obtained while the engine was detonating, IF knock was occurring.
Additional thought:
The module pins, in the red and blue connectors, can back out. And the module pins can also corrode and fail, due to condensation build-up. The plastic bag that is supposed to cover the module can fall short, when trying to keep water/moisture out. Many abnormal symptoms can occur, if there is a poor circuit connection. Make sure this is not the issue, by close inspection of the connectors, terminal pins/sockets, and where the wire is crimped to the terminal.