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Thread: Camber Adjustment

  1. #1

    Camber Adjustment

    Good Morning,

    I have an 88 Shelby Daytona this an 91 IROC front end on it with the Koni struts. I have also cut the shocks to lower the car and have the strut cambered out as far as it can go. With this i am still running positive camber and was going to see if anyone knew or had any shock/strut tower brackets that have camber adjusters on them? This car is a road race car and would help a lot to be able to have neutral or negative camber.

    thanks,
    Adam

  2. #2
    turbo addict Chris W's Avatar
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    Re: Camber Adjustment

    Quote Originally Posted by Koenig View Post
    Good Morning,

    I have an 88 Shelby Daytona this an 91 IROC front end on it with the Koni struts. I have also cut the shocks to lower the car and have the strut cambered out as far as it can go. With this i am still running positive camber and was going to see if anyone knew or had any shock/strut tower brackets that have camber adjusters on them? This car is a road race car and would help a lot to be able to have neutral or negative camber.

    thanks,
    Adam
    Rich might be able to hook you up with something.


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  3. #3
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Camber Adjustment

    Either the BCs, some custom work to do something similar with the stock hats and bolt holes, or you can grind the knuckles and slot the struts more to get more camber. I have a couple sets of Rich's BC kits and they're pretty great.

  4. #4
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor ajakeski's Avatar
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    Re: Camber Adjustment

    There are “camber kits”. Thinner knuckle bolts that allow for more movement. They used to be commonly used in the front end shops about 20 years ago.
    https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K100132-...28647753&psc=1

  5. #5
    turbo addict
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    Re: Camber Adjustment

    https://www.amazon.com/s?k=camber+bo...f=nb_sb_noss_2

    Cambers bolts seem to be the cheapest and easiest way to go.

  6. #6
    turbo addict
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    Re: Camber Adjustment

    You cut the *struts* or the *springs*?

    If you've lowered the car, and adjusted the camber bolts to maximum and STILL have positive camber, there's something else going on. ALL of that adds to negative camber. Even a bone stock car can get about -1* or slightly more camber.

    I've seen several different methods of gaining more. Being as you have used the complete '91 suspension (including the control arms if I'm not mistaken), you should see an increase in caster, and possibly have an interference of the tire and the front of the wheel well. The ball joint position on the cast control arms is moved forward roughly 3/4" and it's been proven over time that the machining tolerances of the ball joint hole are...loose.

  7. #7
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: Camber Adjustment

    A stock setup can get a lot of negative camber. I think it's closer to -3*. It's enough to look goofy. I don't know what you mean by having the strut cambered out but the bottom of the strut actually goes inward toward the center of the car to get negative camber.

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