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Thread: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

  1. #1
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    finally found the turbo I want , the way I want it with no turbine housing
    (I have a bored out .63 turbine housing for it already)
    https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Cod e=GRT-TBO-316&Category_Code=GTGT3082R


    question is , what do I end up with if I install it without doing anything else ?

    - an EFI TII that never really makes boost ?? .. - this would be fine with me for the time being

    note I don't want to drive it anymore than around the block or up the street as I'm doing suspension chassis work .. but I'd really like to "design" my intercooler intake turbo plumbing install and be done in one
    (have TU manifold too)

    so I don't need it to make lots of power I don't really need it to do much .. except "be there"

    "built" motor / trans upgrade comes after

    I'd also like to do my "tuning" (and learning) on the car's original engine rather than the "built" (cubic dollar) one
    that won't go in until I know the car is ready for it

    I'm about to begin my TII conversion of my charger and I'd like to put it together as "it's going to be"

    I've had the car four years this christmas coming and I haven't even driven it yet so "refined" drivability isn't very important
    like I said it will only need to go around the block and up to the alignment shop..for now

    the TII turbo I have is old and hasn't been used in many years
    I can't justify the cost replacing it or rebuilding it when I don't even want it

  2. #2
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor tryingbe's Avatar
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    Leave the big turbo out, use the TII turbo and old tire engine while you learn how to tune.
    Tailgate at your own risk.

  3. #3
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    this particular effort isn't a "drive it now deal " - this is more a working evolutionary step in my build process so to say

    and ,actually.. it's not so tired
    o-e motor and car have 28 000 MILES

    my TII turbo however looks like it could fill a room with white smoke real quick it's more barnickle than turbo at this time

    I may consider another used short block in the interim AND my trans swap

    I'm debating the idea of dropping the entire 28 000 mile drivetrain and selling it almost complete with the harness and modules
    'cause everything looks like a three year old car
    - even the wires where they are crimped in the terminal connectors

    runs just fine .. no reason to muck about with it really ..
    just no motor mount bracketry...to be included if I do


    so all I really need to know is if I stick the turbo on , do I get a TII that's a complete dog with little or no boost at normal surface street speeds ?

    for now that's all I need it to be... I'm not about to stomp on it and go to the land of the stupid ...

    and with the TU manifold and front mount it would be nice to get things "fitted" properly before my "real" motor goes in

    I'm to old for doin' stuff over .. and over ..

    build the car .. then stuff the motor in works better for me
    Last edited by Dr. Johny Dodge; 08-31-2019 at 01:24 PM.

  4. #4
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    maybe I should ask the additional question of

    GT3082 , or, GT3582..? (isma valve 655 head 314cam , s 60 cam and hopefully an R5 before they run out
    -I only need the R5 to compare all three)
    edit - add a little more RPM with 3.69 first / 408 FD

    application being , "drive around the neighbourhood a little " , and , lap times .. little local track called Mosport

    it's kinda a fast road course so lag .. that's not really going to be an issue with any turbo and I have absolutely zero interest in drag racing

    take a ride ..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LyBLNO_jl3g

    https://www.google.com/search?q=Mosp...ih=391&dpr=1.5
    Last edited by Dr. Johny Dodge; 08-31-2019 at 01:40 PM.

  5. #5
    turbo addict
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    Johny, that turbo supports very close to 600 HP. IMO, WAY, WAY, too big for your 8V application. When you get that 655 head flowing around 300/250 CFM then we'll talk. Why kill half your powerband with a turbo that engine can't spool efficiently? MAYBE, if you had a huge flowing 16V head running high RPM and boost.
    As my mom used to say, your eyes are bigger than your stomach (lol).
    GT3071R is plenty of turbo for a 8V for 99+% of 2.2 enthusiasts.
    Todd

  6. #6
    ...if you know what I mean... Turbo Mopar Contributor csxtra's Avatar
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    Johnny I second Todd's advice.

    I actually have the GT3082R turbo with a .63 (used to have an .82) housing on my 87 CSX, works OK on a 2.5 with Menegon head (+1mm valves) + other mods, but I find myself wanting something more responsive in the low to mid RPM range and I think a GT3076 would be a much better match for up to 500whp, or a GT3071 for quicker spool at the expense of a lower total power potential. I really wish my 3082 was more responsive when accelerating out of a corner.

    From my experience, the GT30 turbine wheel doesn't have the torque to spool the 82 wheel efficiently so while you can get a little boost at low RPM, high boost doesn't come in until almost 4000 RPM or so on my 2.5. And when combined with a .63 housing, the turbine side becomes restrictive at high boost levels. With an .82 housing the turbo works much better overall, but full boost was 400RPM later. On a 2.2 8 valve, expect those full boost RPM levels to be even higher.

    Overall the 3071 or 3076 are better turbos for an 8 valve, especially a 2.2. If you want to go really big, a GT or GTX3582R would be the way to go for ultimate power levels but you will most likely find yourself wishing you had gone smaller when you go to accelerate out of a corner. The GT3082 is not a total disappointment on a 2.5, but for a 2.2 a better-matched smaller turbo is the way to go IMO, or you might find yourself disappointed trying to power out of corners on the road course, especially before you get your final motor done.

    Warren
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    12.749 @ 109.84 - 91 octane + Methanol Injection (Still tuning...)
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  7. #7
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Shadow's Avatar
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Johny Dodge View Post
    maybe I should ask the additional question of

    GT3082 , or, GT3582..? (isma valve 655 head 314cam , s 60 cam and hopefully an R5 before they run out
    -I only need the R5 to compare all three)
    edit - add a little more RPM with 3.69 first / 408 FD

    application being , "drive around the neighbourhood a little " , and , lap times .. little local track called Mosport

    it's kinda a fast road course so lag .. that's not really going to be an issue with any turbo and I have absolutely zero interest in drag racing

    take a ride ..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LyBLNO_jl3g

    https://www.google.com/search?q=Mosp...ih=391&dpr=1.5
    Johny, your getting some really Good advise here, but let me ask You the ultimate Q;

    What are your over-all power goals for your build? What fuel are you comfortable running regularly? In other words, Are you going to Use all of that turbo?

    Biggest eye opener that would turn me away, even If I as looking for 600HP is the lower PR comp wheel. It shows a good map for our mtrs, but I've learned that High PR wheels just work Better in a flow limited environment......

    Robert Mclellan
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wambNdfnu5M
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    Worlds fastest 8v MTX Shelby Charger
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  8. #8
    turbo addict Chris W's Avatar
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    I agree with both Todd and Warren. The 3082 will be way more than you need and will only delay spool up. Our header, R5 camshaft and GT3076 turbo all compliment each other. That exact combination is what helped Wayne Hemingway capture the record for the Chrysler minivan. When you are ready to purchase the turbo give us a call. We are certain we can beat our competitors prices.

    Chris-TU
    Chris Wright www.TurbosUnleashed.com Chris@TurbosUnleashed.com 602-76-BOOST Tech/Sales#: 7 days a week 9AM-7PM MST Proudly Serving the Turbo-Mopar Community since 1997 TU is a performance, not marketing company. We provide accurate performance data on all our performance products. Fabricating data to make us appear better is just not our style. Do the research before you buy. ROCK BOTTOM PRICES WITHOUT THE HIDDEN HANDLING FEES.... -----HOME OF THE 9 SECOND FWD T-M CLUTCH----- CARS FOR SALE 1986 Omni GLHS #299 61k miles Many New Parts including Fresh Engine Build with Wisecos, New Turbo, Clutch, Performance Oil Pan, etc. - $14,000 http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/garage.php?do=user_garage_view&id=12

  9. #9
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    edit - this turned into a composition
    ... you might wanna come back with a fresh coffee ...

    thanks for the input guys .. sorry for the long time getting back to this - "life happens"

    todd - your mom would love me as I hold my plate out for the third serving of thanksgiving or christmas dinner ..

    (mine did)

    and yeah , my over the top build plan is a thirty year long research/ design plan - since I had my turbo converted turismo

    I used to think I wanted a super 60 set up ... THEN I got the internet ....LOL

    I bought the car solely for the purpose of building it as a track car.. not driving it around
    the engine in it serves only to move it in & out of the garage and drive it to some shop for .. whatever

    until the "built" motor is done

    but building "the car" means being ready for "the motor" to "fit"
    - thus my original question about big stupid turbo on stock motor and tune
    drivable , rather ""DRIVABLE"" yes / no .. definitely not beatable is a given ...

    ie , if I'm not trying to make boost and power than it doesn't matter what hangs on the back ,

    and I won't buy a stock turbo just to complete my TII smec conversion & manifold / intercooler installation just to replace it with the turbo I want

    same as I'd rather let the car sit with the dead struts shocks and brakes then replace it all then do it again with big brakes and coil overs
    - don't need to drive it around ...have a truck for that ...

    thus I've already now owned the car 4 years without driving it

    power goal - IF , I make 480 out of the proverbial box I'd be somewhat happy

    looking for 480 - 525/530 ish ...- seriously (and probably another rod bearing subscription....)

    with a real operating range of 4000 to 7000 ... with the limiter set a little higher incase wanted

    and an "on it" speed of 40mph and above to 100-125/135 with a pull not unlike our resident 10 second cars .. back when they were still say closer to 11 seconds

    so rolling 40 mph starts to 1/4 , 1/2 & 3/4 mile pulls without

    ..a good steep mile long down hill run locally and a 12# boost 305 , 525...
    I can say the rubber whale tale spoiler stopped the "boat trailer" feeling coming from the back end at anything over 125

    120-125 being the speed already at the top of the hill to start the mile straight downhill - 115 CDN speedo already long ago pegged - followed by a couple of sweepy 60 mph curves
    - I USED to do that EVERY summer night ....at 2-3 am , lack of traffic permitting

    I'm REALLY not looking for quick from a stop performance .. ever or much of a city speed "low end"
    - where in "my case" being a little useless at low speed isn't going to be a bad thing - my turismo habit lacked , um , self discipline...? as you may infer from my 314 cam post to follow next & ^

    I got to the point where I could make my power loss lamp start to glow but not "light up" ..so I "knows where it is just by feel "

    my 688 trans has a 370 first gear and a 408 fd so I might wanna not have much use for first (2-5 = getrag 555)
    but if I do at least I'll have a little more rpm spooled up in any moment

    I'd like to do it with minimal boost needed and thus less heat if I can with a large front mount intercooler
    - a 25 x 16 x3 1/2, downflow, same side 3" i/o seems the best I've found yet

    I have the isma valves / seats & anti drop guides and pt's for the head but I have some different "experimental" ideas towards porting

    and yeah .. I'm not afraid of failure if it doesn't work out so well but I'd hate to say I didn't try what I'm thinking

    so , years of reading posts on heads , intakes and porting I found a couple of things along the way

    looking at Iturbo's hilborn mechanical fuel injection intake I noted a different intake bolt pattern - necessitated by the throttle shaft running through the center of it where our stock intake bolts would be

    simple enough reason ..two bolts at the top , one for each top corner of the port and a third bolt down below the port

    then I found on ebay some fabricated manifolds for a 2.2 with weber side draft carbs
    - possibly something left over from the isma racers or maybe the mexican GP 2.2 cars

    they were really expensive at 300 odd bucks so I saved the pic and moved on

    later I noted these weber intakes had the same three bolt bolt pattern - and a really big round runner section - that looked large enough to bore the manifold 45mm all the way through - pic attached


    then I remembered a vague post "The Pope" had made saying it would be nice if we could make the ports rounder.......

    so my first step is going to be "step porting" a trash G head with a hole saw and some cut off discs in the die grinder to find just how far towards the original bolt holes I can go

    theory being to try to create a port runner that is somewhat funneled to a 3 sided"venturi" like opening to the valve bowl... running from a 40-45mm throttle body on each port to the almost same size valve in the head with a TB to bowl distance of 5-6 inches

    also thinking if the port is wider than the 655 head's port floor will be somewhat proportionally , not so low (?) though the floor will granted , "still suck"

    plan is a very short intake runner with two Jenvey 30mm thick throttle bodies which have built in injector locations

    https://store.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-...tyle-30mm-long

    I know the isma "cheater" heads are special castings but I'd like to find a way to get the exhaust port close to the isma heads finished size too- such as much as the TU manifold would allow

    thing I wonder about there is the clipped corner on the top of the exhaust port

    the exhaust port floors remind me of my 460 ford ex ports though not nearly as badly formed

    but still I don't like the downwards ramped floor that actually mounts the manifold port window low on the head in relation to the exit from the bowl
    solution on the 460 is to raise the exhaust port 3/8 inch for a HUGE improvement (aka Trick Flow Specialties heads)

    though , whatever I do has to jive with my TU manifold

    (which by the way don't work with the DC/MP weber manifolds- the stepped increase in manifold size prevents the bottom of the weber manifold from fitting except on port #1 - an inch thick spacer at the intake gasket would be needed)

    if I cannot square out that top port corner in a stock head I'd strongly consider reaming an aluminum plus deep enough into that corner to allow the port and plug to be ported as one

    I also noted the isma teams referred to the combustion chambers collapsing into the heads
    noting they were using earlier heads .. and so am I , I noted the small difference in the cheater heads casting
    it's missing the long crescent shaped water passage at the front of the cylinders & has only a small rectangular hole

    K, so they added material to help make it stronger ..thinking, how do I do it with my factory head?

    I figure a couple of aluminum pipe plugs rammed diagonally into the crescent shaped opening and under the combustion chamber , one towards either side should work

    I'm presuming their issue was the thin strip between the chamber and the crescent opening lifted rather than the central chamber roofs themselves

    as I want to beat this thing for one , two or maybe three hours at a time it's worth noting what those who already did say & did too ..

    also the reason I posted the thread asking about harder rod bearings as this was my weak point beating the ABSOLUTE snot outta the turbo turismo , daily

    bearings now I think I'll have to hope to find a "match for by size rather than part number as I was told the harder o-e bearings were the only harder ones

    & yeah , six failed sets of rod bearings / six years.. I'll admit that was all me , really , beating it .. without mercy all day everyday
    though I will add my "seasonal" mileage using up a set of rod bearings was actually really high at 30-40-50K miles

    but I mean to beat this twice as hard
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  10. #10
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor tryingbe's Avatar
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    That's a lot of words, but what I got from is

    looking for 480 - 525/530 ish

    with a real operating range of 4000 to 7000
    Tailgate at your own risk.

  11. #11
    Super Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff contraption22's Avatar
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    I am sure there is some application where a GT3082 works well, but it seems like a pretty big missmatch of a small turbine and a big compressor, which would make it laggy on the bottom and choke the exhaust on the top end.
    Mike Marra
    1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
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  12. #12
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    Quote Originally Posted by contraption22 View Post
    I am sure there is some application where a GT3082 works well, but it seems like a pretty big missmatch of a small turbine and a big compressor, which would make it laggy on the bottom and choke the exhaust on the top end.
    Well Mike, also using a 655 head... some people just march to the beat of a different drummer (lol).
    Todd

  13. #13
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Shadow's Avatar
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    Quote Originally Posted by tryingbe View Post
    That's a lot of words, but what I got from is
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Johny Dodge View Post

    looking for 480 - 525/530 ish

    with a real operating range of 4000 to 7000
    Exactly! Now is that Crank HP or WHP?

    Robert Mclellan
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  14. #14
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow View Post
    Exactly! Now is that Crank HP or WHP?
    with an alleged 19hp loss to drive the trans I'd say aim for at "wheels" and be happy if "at crank"

    and as I said with an operating range of 4K to 7K but with the limiter set around 8K..I'll add

    being able to make the power loss lamp just start to glow deep red without lighting up bright red of making the engine miss, .. I know by feel & sound where 7200 is

    for now I have a .63 cryco turbine housing that's bored for the gt3082's turbine wheel - any upgrade on the turbine housing is for later as I have one of Shadow's swing valves to go on it + the TU manifold
    - so I have what I have on the hot side - for now

    if you all with the voice of experience have a compressor side that will work better I'm all ears

    - gotta be a Garrott DBB - only .. for the familiarity and for the Garrott budget friendly rebuild / exchange of original buyer turbo- center sections and never having had issues I'll gg with some degree of loyalty ..

    (if you bought it new from them the rebuilt rate on it is MUCH less than a new center section assembly , retail)

    head is 655 , yep .. with 314 or S60 cam , PT's , LS comp bee hives and Isma valves

    and I have a scrap G head to use to figure out how round the ports can get if you don't have a bolt on each side to deal with

    I'm going to cut the entire intake port out of the head with a drill press , a hole saw and a dremel with a cut off wheel to free the piece at the back - to see how round , how far in , I can go

    then short fabbed intake , very short intake , just enough to clear the thickness of the TU manifold as mounted , so 2-3 inch flange to flange

    + a 30mm thick throttle body on rach runner and then a very large plenum

    over all it would be a much shorter and lower final arrangement with a short straight run at the port coming from a plenum mounted down lower behind the port in the head rather than up above it with the long curved runners
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  15. #15
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Shadow's Avatar
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Johny Dodge View Post
    with an alleged 19hp loss to drive the trans I'd say aim for at "wheels" and be happy if "at crank"

    and as I said with an operating range of 4K to 7K but with the limiter set around 8K..I'll add

    being able to make the power loss lamp just start to glow deep red without lighting up bright red of making the engine miss, .. I know by feel & sound where 7200 is

    for now I have a .63 cryco turbine housing that's bored for the gt3082's turbine wheel - any upgrade on the turbine housing is for later as I have one of Shadow's swing valves to go on it + the TU manifold
    - so I have what I have on the hot side - for now

    if you all with the voice of experience have a compressor side that will work better I'm all ears

    - gotta be a Garrott DBB - only .. for the familiarity and for the Garrott budget friendly rebuild / exchange of original buyer turbo- center sections and never having had issues I'll gg with some degree of loyalty ..

    (if you bought it new from them the rebuilt rate on it is MUCH less than a new center section assembly , retail)

    head is 655 , yep .. with 314 or S60 cam , PT's , LS comp bee hives and Isma valves

    and I have a scrap G head to use to figure out how round the ports can get if you don't have a bolt on each side to deal with

    I'm going to cut the entire intake port out of the head with a drill press , a hole saw and a dremel with a cut off wheel to free the piece at the back - to see how round , how far in , I can go

    then short fabbed intake , very short intake , just enough to clear the thickness of the TU manifold as mounted , so 2-3 inch flange to flange

    + a 30mm thick throttle body on rach runner and then a very large plenum

    over all it would be a much shorter and lower final arrangement with a short straight run at the port coming from a plenum mounted down lower behind the port in the head rather than up above it with the long curved runners
    Your power goals and operating range, whether you realize it or not are almost spot on the Charger's. Albeit, the Charger is making a lot more WHP but I don't run 39psi and 600WHP on the street lol

    Charger runs about 21 psi on 94 octane with zero knock and around 425WHP, which is all I would ever run, as any more and your just spinning your wheels through all gears.

    So last Q;

    What octane fuel and/or meth combo are you going to run All the time to support your HP goals? This is arguably the most Important part of the equation. Having a set-up that can make 500WHP on race gas vs a set-up that can make 500WHP all day long on pump or pump + meth as no one I know runs on race gas all the time.

    It sounds like you want a summer driver that's 480-500WHP all the time, which I think is prob unrealistic. Now you said you'd be happy with crank HP, which is a huge difference. Now you're only talking 400-425WHP which is much more realistic, because you can do it on a reasonable fuel supply.

    Listening to everything you're saying, and knowing you want a Garrett DBB turbo, my gut says GTX3076R with .82 turbine housing, but .63 A/R could work as well.

    I know you have the .63 A/R housing already machined for the GT3082R, but as others have mentioned, the .63 will effect the efficiency of that turbo, plus you're dealing with a large compressor wheel with a mediocre pr ratio.

    I would rather see you use that .63 A/R on a turbo that can use it more effectively without giving up too much all around.

    When Garrett came out with the GTX series turbo's, it really did our community a big favour, as our 8v mtrs suffer from gobs of flow and need higher pr comp wheels to overcome that inefficiency.

    What many don't consider is what a high pr comp wheel can do in a restrictive environment, basically everything Better than it's lower pr alternative.

    Better boost threshold and transient response with faster spool.

    Greatly reduced surge window

    Cooler charge air from compressor

    There just is no down side.
    Last edited by Shadow; 10-11-2019 at 12:33 PM.

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  16. #16
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    not "summer driver" but purpose built road track car

    from past experience my inner carnal lunatic and a turbo L body belongs on the track not the street ..trust me ...and the more I think of this the more I DON'T want to be driving it around
    ( Q Hulk green driving suit..)
    my lowered f150 turns left at 60kph without breaking a sweat so I have the sporty 'roundabout town thing well covered...

    track is 45 min from home and I have a pick up truck to drag things around with .. so I'm good when in ontario 50kph over the posted limit = automatic 7 day impound fee + whatever you get busted for

    granted I want to do laps , lap after lap maybe an hour or so at a time so a reasonably priced fuel would be ideal though I'm not a fan of add on "make it work" deals like the Meth kits or say oldsmobile "rocket fuel"

    yeah .. I'd rather pass and have it "right" to begin with

    I'd like to have boost in the mid 20's , say upper mid 20's..25-27/8 with a quality stand alone boost controller - later as things evolve - I'm planning on a wideband and boost controller as a single same time buy when the project point justifies the need..ie - startable..

    with the gt3082 I was thinking of volume vs it's smaller drive side thus the bigger compressor but that's just the "lay man's" starting point of thought I suppose
    - short intake and somewhat larger plenum than my Lengal one + 3 inch i/o , 25 x 16 x 3.5 dn flow front mount and through (flat) hood cold air intake with my baby mopar pro stock scoop on it - air box & filter in the factory "location"

    which brings me to a wastegate question
    having the mopar style swing valve , and the cast in provision on my TU manifold would it be an idea to rig a simple mechanical operated wastegate in one place or the other .. incase the "controlled" wastegate fails ...?

    say controlled is set to 25-27 but the mechanical or manually set one is set to 30,31,32.. ???

    the difference between wishing I had and being glad I did might be significant ..

  17. #17
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    maybe I can attach multiple pics ..?
    (first try)
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  18. #18
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    I don't have an issue with the .82ar turbine housing as a later upgrade but I don't need to upgrade something that doesn't run ..yet
    buying the turbo now without a turbine housing saves hundreds especially with a 35% exchange
    -with the same sized turbine wheel on the GTX3076 I'll note it as the first bigger do over on the list lol

    at that point I'd look for a V band style one to boot and maybe larger too as the exhaust is only going to be two sections of pipe and a muffler in the middle

    but to add , when you see my bored out , smoothed out .63 sandwiched between the VERY LARGE TU manifold and your VERY LARGE 3 inch swing valve I have to think the .63 might respond better than it would usually
    though yeah it might be limited at high flow ..though the hole in the center .. and the turbine wheel are SO much larger..

    bigger enough I'm willing to go with it as is for now

    power goal is .."evolutionary" , maybe ??
    screw together the parts for 525 and hope you're in the proverbial ballpark when it actually runs

    480 would be standing at the turnstiles ticket in hand ... with hopeful expectations..
    I really don't think I can be more realistic in noting it takes lots more effort to hit the actual goal and nothing is fully "sorted" out of the box for the first time

  19. #19
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Shadow's Avatar
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Johny Dodge View Post
    I don't have an issue with the .82ar turbine housing as a later upgrade but I don't need to upgrade something that doesn't run ..yet
    buying the turbo now without a turbine housing saves hundreds especially with a 35% exchange
    -with the same sized turbine wheel on the GTX3076 I'll note it as the first bigger do over on the list lol

    at that point I'd look for a V band style one to boot and maybe larger too as the exhaust is only going to be two sections of pipe and a muffler in the middle

    but to add , when you see my bored out , smoothed out .63 sandwiched between the VERY LARGE TU manifold and your VERY LARGE 3 inch swing valve I have to think the .63 might respond better than it would usually
    though yeah it might be limited at high flow ..though the hole in the center .. and the turbine wheel are SO much larger..

    bigger enough I'm willing to go with it as is for now

    power goal is .."evolutionary" , maybe ??
    screw together the parts for 525 and hope you're in the proverbial ballpark when it actually runs

    480 would be standing at the turnstiles ticket in hand ... with hopeful expectations..
    I really don't think I can be more realistic in noting it takes lots more effort to hit the actual goal and nothing is fully "sorted" out of the box for the first time
    Ah yes, I had read right past the part about you having one of my 3" S/V's! That does change things quite a bit. Enough for you to run the .63 A/R housing on the GTX3076 for sure! Specially with mandrel no chambered 3" exhaust.

    Port out and bias your W/G hole well and you should have no boost control problems. So many complicate things so much before even getting started that they never end up making the finish line. You are already adding a lot of complicated stuff to an otherwise simple build....hope you can make it all work in the end.

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  20. #20
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: what happens , ..GT3082 on stock TII

    I had a polished S60 with a .63 all it's own bolted in here that looked so sweet ... but the compressor looked so small ...

    changed my mind and sold it long ago
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    Last edited by Dr. Johny Dodge; 10-11-2019 at 09:50 PM.

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