Are the 90 minivans just like the cars headlight wise? Power from the battery though the headlight switch, and then to the headlights? There's not a relay, correct?
Are the 90 minivans just like the cars headlight wise? Power from the battery though the headlight switch, and then to the headlights? There's not a relay, correct?
I'm about 99% sure there is no relay. Are you having problems? One of the first mods I do when I get one of the old cars is add a relay to the headlamps. Power comes from the batt to the relay then to the headlamp, the factory headlight power wire then just clicks the relay over. I have measured up to 2v loss at the headlamp plugs, measure 14v at the batt then check the headlamp plugs and it's like 12v. It makes a HUGE difference, just those couple volts
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Thanks for the info. I also relay my headlights. I just bought a van and the guy who owned it said there had been a relay installed which he thought might have been bad. There was continuity between the low, high and ground pins, so I think I'll just cut them at the firewall and move forward like you suggested. I hope nothing is all melted under the dash, but I'm not holding out much hope.
To get home I just wired the headlights directly to the battery. That worked, but I don't think my wife would like to get out and undo the connectors every time she wants the lights on or off.
Sounds good, yea they lose a ton of voltage between the battery, back thru the switch, back thru the bulb, not to mention a jumble---- in the body/dash harness and the fuse blocks. The electrical on these cars is HORRIBLE! I picked up a volt and a half at each tail lamp socket on a Pbody just by grounding each one and it made the turn signals flash 'normal' lol. Go after the alt wiring next, run 0 gauge from alt to batt, ground the batt with 0 gauge, then the rest of the block to frame grounds usually 2 or 4 gauge is ok.
I had my 90 Daytona at around 15v doing that with a AGM batt and a 120a alt. Everything electronics wise just works so much nicer.
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