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Thread: 93 A523 transmisson question.

  1. #1
    Mitsu booster
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    93 A523 transmisson question.

    Fairly new here with lots of newb questions. anyway I recently discovered the former owner installed an A523 (1993) trans into the vehicle. (86 omni glhs) there is a little threaded stud sticking out next to the 2 pin switch. ( reverse switch?) what is the purpose of this stud? the threads on it are stripped and it's barely staying put. if it serves a purpose i can repair the hole with a time sert or equivalent. I also checked the fluid and it looks like red ATF was used. probably going to change that out for some 5w-30. anything else that I can do for some good ole PM. I already installed poly bushing which made a huge difference in the shifter.

  2. #2
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: 93 A523 transmisson question.

    The stud is flipped long end down to lock the trans in neutral for shifter linkage adjustment. That's it's sole purpose other than plugging the hole. I too would drain the fluid and use dome 5-30 plain jane dyno oil in it. The late 523s like you have in there are actually quite strong and should hold up nearly as well as a late 568 trans.

  3. #3
    Super Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff 135sohc's Avatar
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    Re: 93 A523 transmisson question.

    That stud is for adjusting the cross-over shift cable, in normal mode the tapered longer end is up and when adjusting the cable you flip it over and thread it in to lock the selector shaft into neutral.

    The two pin switch is the reverse light switch.

    If the fluid is atf and not something like redline then yes change it asap. One better would be to drill/tap for a drain plug but doing that with the trans installed/built up is less than ideal. The tap being npt will hit the ring gear before it is really deep enough.

    Non synthetic plain old 5w30 is all these things need.
    1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 355,000 miles. (In the family since new).
    1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore.

  4. #4
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: 93 A523 transmisson question.

    you may have to pull an axle to get all (enough) ATF out of your trans

    fill hole in in the side cover in the driver's wheel well

    fill to bottom of hole drive around block , reverse a couple of times , check fluid level again and top up if needed

    there's something like/of a dam separating the trans section and diff section internally

    you have to get the diff filled to , all via the same hole thus you need to re-check that it really is full

  5. #5
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor ajakeski's Avatar
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    Re: 93 A523 transmisson question.

    If you drill and tap for a drain plug, you need to tap for a 3/8 NPT plug. You can buy the tap at any hardware store, but youíll find it is too long and will hit the ring gear.
    Cut the tap down about 1/2 an inch and you should be OK. Use a brass 3/8 NPT plumbing plug to seal the drain hole.
    NPT is National Pipe Thread. Itís a common plumbing size.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff 135sohc's Avatar
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    Re: 93 A523 transmisson question.

    1/4" npt works also.
    1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 355,000 miles. (In the family since new).
    1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore.

  7. #7

    Re: 93 A523 transmisson question.

    On the fluid, with modern motor oil lacking ZDDP, I would NOT use 5w30. (unless you are SURE it has ZDDP...)

    I would recommend a fluid designed for manuals like Pennzoil Synchromesh, Redline MTL or similar.

  8. #8
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: 93 A523 transmisson question.

    Quote Originally Posted by c2xejk View Post
    On the fluid, with modern motor oil lacking ZDDP, I would NOT use 5w30. (unless you are SURE it has ZDDP...)

    I would recommend a fluid designed for manuals like Pennzoil Synchromesh, Redline MTL or similar.
    Jackson had issues with Redline MTL.
    Regards,
    Miles

    DD '87 Sundance T1, 12PSI, SLH with rear disks
    '87 CSX #432

  9. #9

    Re: 93 A523 transmisson question.

    Quote Originally Posted by chromguy View Post
    Jackson had issues with Redline MTL.
    What was the issue(s)?

    Pretty sure if the 5w30 doesn't have ZDDP in it, the trans will have issues....

    Initially I used Redline MTL, but after a few trans fluid changes I opted for Synchromesh which I can get locally...

  10. #10
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: 93 A523 transmisson question.

    the zddp or zinc is for the high load parts like the non-roller follower on the cam so I can understand why the trans might have issues without it to

  11. #11
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: 93 A523 transmisson question.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Johny Dodge View Post
    the zddp or zinc is for the high load parts like the non-roller follower on the cam so I can understand why the trans might have issues without it to
    I subscribe to that theory as well.

    I also know that the later 1-2 synchro likes different things than what the early stuff does from what I've read. It seems like a lose lose situation. I could be wrong though.

  12. #12
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: 93 A523 transmisson question.

    Quote Originally Posted by c2xejk View Post
    What was the issue(s)?

    Pretty sure if the 5w30 doesn't have ZDDP in it, the trans will have issues....

    Initially I used Redline MTL, but after a few trans fluid changes I opted for Synchromesh which I can get locally...
    I found the link and you commented!!! LOL, it was four years ago
    http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...-Oil-for-my-DD
    Info on Zinc
    http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ous-in-Mobil-1

    Personally I try to place as much Mobil 1 in the MTX that I can for its antiwear properties. I add just enough Mobil 5000 to get the shift quality I want.
    Regards,
    Miles

    DD '87 Sundance T1, 12PSI, SLH with rear disks
    '87 CSX #432

  13. #13
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: 93 A523 transmisson question.

    have any of you guys tried regular old dino oil formulated as "high mileage or zddp added oils
    say like high mileage Q-state ?

    (seeing I have one or two 5 litre jugs of that handy..)

    and re castrol.. I used 10 -30 and even 20-50 castrol
    when warm it didn't even have enough cling to give a reading on the dipstick

    I used castrol in my first 6 engines (2.2) and all 6 died
    switched to ordinary (in the day) Q-state and the only motor I've lost since was the 86 TII convert that had the stuck wastegate actuator

    but for two weeks that one was the FASTEST YET
    even roasted a 98-9 vette with that one as it was so badly ... so VERY badly
    he even had a 4 lane ROLLING head start.. kicked out sideways each time he shifted and I had him at the top of third EASY

  14. #14
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor shmedley's Avatar
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    Re: 93 A523 transmisson question.

    I use Brad Penn Penn grade-1 oil in my 555.
    I use the high ZDDP racing oil. They have a non green regular oil, so if you do use make sure you get the right one.
    Thanks
    Brad S.

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  15. #15
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor zin's Avatar
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    Re: 93 A523 transmisson question.

    Lots of "racing oils" have the zinc in them, which is one of the reasons they list them as "racing oils". That way, if you put it in your modern car with O2 and Cats, and they get poisoned, that's on you... it's a racing product. And if your do the same in your race car, well... "That's Racing!" :-)

    Mike
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government - lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." - Patrick Henry

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    - Edmund Burke

  16. #16
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: 93 A523 transmisson question.

    yeah ... I'll NEVER buy lube off a rack at the "speed shop" ..

    I want the stuff that keeps a billion cars running .. not something the guy who pays for his house building engines for rich guys says is "good"

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