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Thread: 11 brake set up.

  1. #1
    Mitsu booster
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    11 brake set up.

    Looking for an 11 inch brake set up. Going on an 88 shelbyz.

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  2. #2
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: 11 brake set up.

    How much of it are you looking for? Do you care what style? 89 only, or 91+?

  3. #3
    Mitsu booster
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    Re: 11 brake set up.

    Man honestly I'm not 100% sure. What's the difference between 89 and 91+ models ?

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    Super Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff 135sohc's Avatar
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    Re: 11 brake set up.

    The rear brake setup is the same using a drum in hat parking brake. On 1989 and 1990 the front larger brakes use a one piece steering knuckle and the bolt in unit hub assembly that all 91 and later cars/vans used regardless of their brake rotor size.

    The 1991 through end of production front brake setup uses a two piece steering knuckle & caliper bracket configuration.


    Both have their advantages and disadvantages. The one piece knuckle weighs less which IMO is the only plus over the later stuff.

    More brake pad selection for the later stuff and with some simple modding the front brake pads and calipers from the LH cars are a direct swap and the brake pad options for those cars are even better.
    1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 355,000 miles. (In the family since new).
    1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore.

  5. #5
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: 11 brake set up.

    The 89 style brakes use a knuckle which has the ears to accept the caliper molded into it rather than a caliper bracket like the later style. The brake calipers are different between the two and not interchangeable. The later knuckles provide a better suspension geometry IMO. The later style big brakes also have good brake pads still available for them, which is nice. The only real advantage to the early style knuckles over the later style is that the early ones are lighter due to the caliper bracket being eliminated.

    I've started to put the later style brakes on everything I own. The best part is that if you find any 91+ knuckles in the yard, then you can order up the proper caliper and bracket off of Amazon or Rockauto for relatively cheap.

    The down sides to the later brakes are that you'll have to modify your brake hose where the banjo bolt attaches it to the caliper. Just cut it down to fit in the spot on the new caliper. You'll also need a different size ball joint pinch bolt. That's about it.

    When it comes to the rest of the system, I generally leave the proportioning valve alone, since there's not a ton of difference between them on the cars I'm converting. If given the choice, I would pick the one with the lowest pressure going to the rear possible. I've had bad experiences with the vented 11" rears on my cars and I don't put them on cars anymore. They lock up way too early when it's cold or wet outside. The solid rear disks are ideal IMO. Even then I will use cheap parts store pads.

    The 24mm MC which is readily available off of Amazon is great, and I would not go to the D150 MC unlike some of the old school wisdom.

  6. #6
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: 11 brake set up.

    Regards,
    Miles

    DD '87 Sundance T1, 12PSI, SLH with rear disks
    '87 CSX #432

  7. #7
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: 11 brake set up.

    Quote Originally Posted by cordes View Post

    The 24mm MC which is readily available off of Amazon is great, and I would not go to the D150 MC unlike some of the old school wisdom.
    Not to hijack, but what are the factors in picking the best matched master. One of my cars has the 10.xx" inch fronts with the 11" vented in the rear at the moment. I think my master has a slight leak and I'm getting ready to replace. I was planning to use a master listed for a Spirit R/T, which looks to be the 24mm. Good choice in your opinion?

    I might also consider upgrading the fronts to 11" in the future if I stick with 15" slicks.

  8. #8
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor supercrackerbox's Avatar
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    Re: 11 brake set up.

    I'm not sure what the diameter is, but the '91 GTC I recently pulled the brakes off of had a 4 cast into the front end of the MC.

  9. #9
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: 11 brake set up.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan H View Post
    I was planning to use a master listed for a Spirit R/T, which looks to be the 24mm. Good choice in your opinion?
    .
    This is what I did three years ago and works great..
    Regards,
    Miles

    DD '87 Sundance T1, 12PSI, SLH with rear disks
    '87 CSX #432

  10. #10
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: 11 brake set up.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan H View Post
    Not to hijack, but what are the factors in picking the best matched master. One of my cars has the 10.xx" inch fronts with the 11" vented in the rear at the moment. I think my master has a slight leak and I'm getting ready to replace. I was planning to use a master listed for a Spirit R/T, which looks to be the 24mm. Good choice in your opinion?

    I might also consider upgrading the fronts to 11" in the future if I stick with 15" slicks.
    I too would go with the R/T MC, although I would get larger brakes on the front as soon as possible. My Omni with the caravan brakes up front and the 11" brakes on the rear was down right dangerous when it was wet or cold outside. The back wanted to be the front in the worst way under those conditions.

    Quote Originally Posted by supercrackerbox View Post
    I'm not sure what the diameter is, but the '91 GTC I recently pulled the brakes off of had a 4 cast into the front end of the MC.
    The MCs with a 4 cast into them are 24mm units. They are what came on the 11" brake cars.

  11. #11
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: 11 brake set up.

    for giggles try a turbo L body with 13 inch vectors and the wee little brakes
    very first time I drove it it was raining - could not accelerate in third as it just broke lose
    stopping .. plan way ahead lol

    both my daytonas with the smaller front and vented or non vented rears locked the rears

    can't say I noticed the issue with the 87-8 rear discs but I didn't keep those long
    drum rear was never a problem
    I can believe it's worse with the L body as I also learned to keep the tires with the most tread in the back as it again likes to slide out in the rain even without braking as the rear's just to light

  12. #12
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: 11 brake set up.

    Quote Originally Posted by cordes View Post
    I too would go with the R/T MC, although I would get larger brakes on the front as soon as possible. My Omni with the caravan brakes up front and the 11" brakes on the rear was down right dangerous when it was wet or cold outside. The back wanted to be the front in the worst way under those conditions.
    I had a 11's all around on my 89 Shadow. I had the back sweep around on me a few times.

    I haven't gotten on these brakes that hard yet. I have a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve I plan to use in place of the factory one. Now that you mention van brakes, I'm wondering if I might have those on the front.

  13. #13
    Mitsu booster
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    Re: 11 brake set up.

    So I found an 89 GTC turbo lebaron for a possible parts car. Or would a 92 lebaron be a better choice for the brake upgrade? Unsure of trim level on 92. It was a field/junk car.

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  14. #14
    Super Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff 135sohc's Avatar
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    Re: 11 brake set up.

    The 89 will be more likely to contain everything as mentioned above. The 92 if a V6 or 2.5 TBI probably has regular disc/drum
    1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 355,000 miles. (In the family since new).
    1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore.

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