Is it worth doing anything with? I didn't even know I had it. It's round tooth, so it might be cool to put on my Lancer just to have it on there, not that you can tell once it's installed.
Is it worth doing anything with? I didn't even know I had it. It's round tooth, so it might be cool to put on my Lancer just to have it on there, not that you can tell once it's installed.
I sold mine to get a Fidanza to save some weight.
I've had Fidanza cam sprockets for our cars and it is amazing how light they are being all aluminum. I wish that were possible for the TIII, but impossible considering the cam sensor functionality.
I had a square tooth one - sold it - still new a few years ago
sadly it's just labour intensive enough I never got around to "playing" with my 314 cam settings ...that's where the adjustable set up would rule
always thought it was a far better way than the offset keys that in reality are simply already sheared off by a convenient amount that changes cam timing (ich)
but nice piece to just "happen" to have handy
"free & already have in the basement" beats "could have" everyday and perfect really for any "set it and forget it "build
also I sense now that you mention it a wave of PM's might swing your way lol
I can't be the only one resisting the mental buy it now button flashing bright red in my head ...triggered in your posting lol
Last edited by Dr. Johny Dodge; 05-19-2019 at 10:32 PM.
I think i have a round tooth and a square tooth one. The round tooth one is on my 90 Caravan that went 14.06 on almost stock everything. I think i retarded the cam 6 degrees.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Don't have the numbers. Probably 6-8 oz, judging from below thread.
But Shadow considered it enough to use Fidanza for his intermediate shaft.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...=1#post1116732
- - - Updated - - -
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...e+shaft+pulley
I think I got like $80 for mine on Ebay, but that was nearly a decade ago.
cools thanks
Regards,
Miles
DD '87 Sundance T1, SLH with rear disks
'87 CSX #432 2.5 CB TII, SLH
I wonder how accurate it really is ?
1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 400,000 miles. "the science experiment"
1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore ?
yeah that's the labour intensive part of trying multiple adjustments with that pulley
& when it runs good and you drive it everyday finding time is harder than one might think
- the multi slot pulley and the old MP "314 turbo" cam would be killer set 2* retarded in a turbo dakota
314 cam has a hell of an extra top end pull just "straight up" with the stock pulley
but you only seem to notice it if the engine's pulling "extra" load and prevented from freely screaming up it's rpm range
like a big hill or a heavier vehicle
As much as I wish that lightweight aluminum TIII camshaft sprockets were a real thing...
I'm surprised I missed that. But I still have very big doubts about that ever actually working with TIII electronics. It would be fine for the exhaust cam gear, but not the intake which is what the cam sensor reads. It needs a ferrous material like the stock cam gear (sintered iron) and notches to read. It won't work with aluminum. It might have worked for Simon, but he was running a distributor and not TIII electronics. I have bought many sets of adjustable TIII cam gears from FWDP and there is a reason that the inner part is aluminum and the outers are still iron (where the sensor reads).
Heck, I have a TurbosUnleashed TIII aluminum flywheel. I had to send it back because even though it had notches, I knew it would never work! Chris did take it back and they put a 'flame spray' nickel coating on the outer perimeter. I hope it works. I didn't realize at the time I was the guinea pig. A magnet just slightly is attracted to the coating. A far cry from an actual steel (OEM) flywheel. Will I ever use it? I dunno....that is a lot of work to go through and find out that it won't even start or it breaks up at high RPM. It would be a fine flywheel for an 8v car but I wouldn't bother with a TIII. I guess I thought that there might be some steel pressed ring with the notches incorporated into it, but nope, just notches in aluminum. It's actually kind of funny any body thought that would actually work.
You know that thing they call a 'hall effect pickup' inside the of TI/TII distributors? Well that is exactly what TIII cam/crank sensors are.
Last edited by iTurbo; 05-27-2019 at 05:31 AM.
could you drill it at each "tab" location and install a small iron grub screw ?
www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=grub%20screw
most here seem stainless but I did google bicycle parts for the example ..
steel ones should not be difficult to find