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Thread: Roadblock of electrical issues

  1. #1
    Mitsu booster
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    May 2016
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    Roadblock of electrical issues

    Setup is: 2.2, JE pistons, T2 rods, ARP hardware throughout, Ported G head, ported one piece intake. AEM 400 LPH fuel pump, -6 line throughout, Delphi Low imp. 95 lb injectors, accufab regulator, Holset HX35 turbo, 3" exhaust. SMEC electronics.


    Just curious. For those running an ostrich, or whoever has ever had any problems with one, what kinda symptoms did you have? starting to run out of possible solutions. Itís not ignition or cam timing (verified this on Saturday and Sunday) even took the crank damper off to verify marks. swapped plugs,swapped coils, have my ground strap on the intake to the strut tower, have a second ground from strut tower to the fuel rail itself (on top of injector ground). Iím pretty
    convinced itís NOT the calibration. As Iíve tried a few different combinations of things and the problems are the same with help from a couple guys. Plugs also look like they are burning evenly. The power loss light def seems to come and go aswell, but kinda seems like it would go hand in hand with the other symptoms, ONLY codes I have are 31 and 36, both of which are irrelevant. Coil + and - both have less than 0.1 of resistance from the small connector on the SMEC. had this exact SMEC and Ostrich setup in my van last year and didnít have any issues, (different engine combo setup but electronics all the same). Swapped a power board from another SMEC and no change. I donít have another socketed SMEC or I would try that, TPS sweep on scanner shows 0.64v to 3.67v at WOT. Used a mighty vac to pressurize map sensor and at 28 psi itís at 4.96v. Voltage goes up evenly. Fuel pressure rises with increase in vacuum leading into boost, (but wonít get into any boost before breaking up) Cylinder compression test got 125 across all four. Went over all my vacuum lines, which is very few, just the main feed to a vacuum block and the block only splits between the map sensor and FPR. havenít pulled the valve cover to check camshaft, but figured that would show other more obvious symptoms. Have PT lifters installed also. Donít want to drive it much more in fear of any engine damage. Anyone seen similar symptoms and if so what would be the best direction to take?

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Mitsu booster
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    Re: Roadblock of electrical issues


  3. #3
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor A.J.'s Avatar
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    Re: Roadblock of electrical issues

    I had a problem with my 2.5 turbo Caravan running an Ostrich. My problem was over 5 psi of boost it would start bucking and if I stayed in the throttle it would stall. Worked fine with a burned chip in a remote socket. Since I couldn't figure it out I couldn't continue forward with my SRT4 swap so I decided to upgrade my one piece intake intake to a two piece and the stock exhaust manifold to TU's cast header. For sh!ts and giggles I tried my ostrich again and it worked, no more bucking or stalling. I was able to tune again so I was able to move forward with my SRT4 swap. The only thing I can think of is, I drilled and tapped two extra ports on my one piece intake (on the passenger side end above the big freeze plug) and that's where my MAP got it's air signal from. It was so odd that replacing mechanical parts fixed what seemed like an electrical problem.

  4. #4
    Mitsu booster
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    Re: Roadblock of electrical issues

    Quote Originally Posted by A.J. View Post
    I had a problem with my 2.5 turbo Caravan running an Ostrich. My problem was over 5 psi of boost it would start bucking and if I stayed in the throttle it would stall. Worked fine with a burned chip in a remote socket. Since I couldn't figure it out I couldn't continue forward with my SRT4 swap so I decided to upgrade my one piece intake intake to a two piece and the stock exhaust manifold to TU's cast header. For sh!ts and giggles I tried my ostrich again and it worked, no more bucking or stalling. I was able to tune again so I was able to move forward with my SRT4 swap. The only thing I can think of is, I drilled and tapped two extra ports on my one piece intake (on the passenger side end above the big freeze plug) and that's where my MAP got it's air signal from. It was so odd that replacing mechanical parts fixed what seemed like an electrical problem.
    Interesting, so throughout the week I went ahead and checked all the grounds again, and tried a different calibration, and whats funny is I can't build over 5 psi of boost, (also have it set to this minimum on the MBC) and around 45-5k RPM is where it cuts out... AFR is good 11.5-11.7 but ONLY does this at WOT, if I somewhat ease into it, I can get it to clear the 5k mark. IF I stay out of boost itll go past the 5k rpm no problem. It also still seems to have a "misfire" without minimal load on the engine, say below 3k rpm in 2nd or 3rd gear cruising. AFR is fine still 14.2-15.0 cruising with that misfire. I monitored knock activity and retard and when it breaks up it shows nothing, so I feel as if its definitely spark related, in some way or another.

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