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Thread: Head Porting

  1. #61
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    Re: Head Porting

    Quote Originally Posted by cordes View Post
    These cross buff things are pretty amazing. I did a few hours worth of work tonight and was able to experiment with another intake runner. I have the roof pretty high, and I stayed much narrower through the port, which I think it by far the way to go. The next step is to make things even from port to port. That will probably be on the next junk head. After that, I'll be ready for the real deal I think.

    Does anyone have a tool to knock the valve guides back into the head? I'm assuming someone makes a punch with a slave portion of the right diameter.
    Brian,
    Here you go. Goodson PH-2228a-g is what you want
    https://goodson.com/products/sae-powered-drivers
    Todd

  2. #62
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Head Porting

    Thanks Todd.

  3. #63
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Head Porting

    Alright. I'm on head #2 now. With this one, I'm trying to keep my process the same from port to port. I've deshrouded the valves and clearly need a better way to mark that. I think I need to put a dimple in a valve and use a compass to score the head. The intake runners will be raised very much and opened on the top and sides to the gasket. The exhaust will be opened to the gasket all around, but the short turn will just be blended and not lowered much.

    Now for some questions. Where are you guys getting your burrs? I wrecked one today getting caught on a burr and losing control of it. I can't seem to find something which is of known quality for the money. They seem like a crap shoot whether it's going to be a quality US made product, or some Chinese piece of junk being sold at domestic manufacture cost.

    How are you guys measuring the ports? I have an internal caliper divider, but the ports seem to just get wider as you get toward the bowl. Even removing as little material as possible inside the port on the sides, it seems impossible to take actual measurements if you have to remove the tool from the port to do so? I'm thinking I must be doing it wrong.

  4. #64
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    Re: Head Porting

    google - Inside caliper tool.
    Thats what i have been using. Measuring how deep i have the tool.
    I actually scribbed all of mine with 1/8th inch marks so i can consistantly go to the same depth.



    my bits have been hit or miss as well.

  5. #65
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Head Porting

    This is what I have. I guess I could make lines on it and measure that at the port? I just fear my whole process on this is off.


  6. #66
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    Re: Head Porting

    My calipers I use to measure with are pretty sharp. I do a 1/4" curve and lay back the chamber that way

  7. #67
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    Re: Head Porting

    mark the calipers you have for depth with a dremel or awl.

    make sure they all have the same width at the same depth.


    you could also try making molds.
    https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/...2/MakingMolds/

    http://www.diyporting.com/molds.html

  8. #68
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Head Porting

    Quote Originally Posted by The Pope View Post
    My calipers I use to measure with are pretty sharp. I do a 1/4" curve and lay back the chamber that way
    1/4" from the edge of the stock valve when level to the face of the head, or 1/4" back from the stock curve at the face of the head?

    Quote Originally Posted by masterjr33 View Post
    mark the calipers you have for depth with a dremel or awl.

    make sure they all have the same width at the same depth.


    you could also try making molds.
    https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/...2/MakingMolds/

    http://www.diyporting.com/molds.html
    That's a good idea. I could make a couple of key measurement points and then do that. Thanks for that idea.

  9. #69
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    Re: Head Porting

    Cut templates out of cardboard. One for X axis, second for Y axis. Play with ports and the templates. When you're happy with shapes, recut em out of metal, slit dowels to make handles; now you can go - no go in an instant with one hand and get all four ports nearly identical three dimensionally.
    John Laing "The sole condition which is required in order to succeed in centralizing the supreme power in a democratic community, is to love equality, or to get men to believe you love it. Thus the science of despotism, which was once so complex is simplified, and reduced . . . . to a single principle." -- Alexis de Tocqueville "One of the methods used by statists to destroy capitalism consists in establishing controls that tie a given industry hand and foot, making it unable to solve its problems, then declaring that freedom has failed and stronger controls are necessary." --Ayn Rand "To evolve, you don't need a Constitution. All you need is a legislature and a ballot box . . . . things will evolve as much as you want. All of these changes can come about democratically; you don't need a Constitution to do that and it's not the function of a Constitution to do that." -- Justice Antonin Scalia

  10. #70
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Head Porting

    I've been at it again while cooped up in the house due to this virus. I'm trying to take it pretty easy on my first head while doing something I think will hopefully flow really well. This is my first time doing a head that will count for something so I'm trying not to rush. I couldn't be happier that I started this thread and practiced up quite a bit on a few other heads before setting to work on the one that will be for points.

    My main concern now is getting new seats installed for the larger valves I don't have. I should also replace the springs and perhaps retainers with something else. Any recommendations for that portion of the job?

  11. #71
    Boost, it's what's for dinner... Turbo Mopar Staff Aries_Turbo's Avatar
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    Re: Head Porting

    Quote Originally Posted by cordes View Post
    I should also replace the springs and perhaps retainers with something else. Any recommendations for that portion of the job?
    comp 942. stock retainer. mp hardened keepers.

    Brian

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman
    This one is easy, I have myself to blame, I rush things, don't pay attention to gauges when I should, change to much stuff at once then expect miracles, the list is endless.

  12. #72
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    Re: Head Porting

    Quote Originally Posted by cordes View Post
    ... I should also replace the springs and perhaps retainers with something else. Any recommendations for that portion of the job?
    Brian,
    If your going with conicals for spring choice, listed below is what I would recommend. If your going to run 942 Comp springs, do what the other Brian (Aries_Turbo) recommends. The Comp 26995 conicals is what I use when choosing conicals. I don't use the Mopar conicals as you have to shim them up so much to get desired closed pressure. It doesn't leave much for headroom before coil bind if running any cam with more than stock lift.

    This was cut and paste I wrote to another on TD.

    In a perfect situation, you would have custom made valves machined with a beadlock valve lock groove, and not a square cut groove. That way you could run LS beadlock locks, retainers, and springs. All perfectly matched. Goes together like peas and carrots (hehe).

    So running conicals, you need to choose your poison, run a 8 valve lock in a 7 retainer, or run a 7 5/16" valve lock in a 7 LS retainer.

    Running conicals, if your running stock valves with multi groove exhaust locks, you're gonna have to use the 8 Mopar locks running in 7 retainers. Many aftermarket valves made for our engines, (not all) use a single groove exhaust valve and not a multi groove lock like Mopar uses.

    For those looking at this in the future, the Manley stamped 5/16" 7 valve locks # 13238-16 fit really nice on LS or 774 Comp cam conical retainer. IMO, fit better than running 8 Chrysler locks on a 7 retainer. I haven't tried the Howard Cams stamped locks # 93020 yet, but suspect they will fit good too. IMO, I wouldn't run machined 5/16" valve locks on a 8mm valve like what we use for our engines. They just don't fit very good. I've tried many, many, 5/16" machined valve locks on 8mm valves, and haven't found one I like yet.
    Todd

  13. #73
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    Re: Head Porting

    Quote Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo View Post
    comp 942. stock retainer. mp hardened keepers.

    Brian
    Do you have part numbers for the MP hardened keepers?
    Regards,
    Miles

    DD '87 Sundance T1, 12PSI, SLH with rear disks
    '87 CSX #432

  14. #74
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    Re: Head Porting

    Quote Originally Posted by chromguy View Post
    Do you have part numbers for the MP hardened keepers?
    P4452031 intake

    P4452030 exhaust

    cindy should have them in stock.

    most places have the exhaust ones in stock. the intake have been backordered since like last year but should be in stock in a few days.

    Brian

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman
    This one is easy, I have myself to blame, I rush things, don't pay attention to gauges when I should, change to much stuff at once then expect miracles, the list is endless.

  15. #75
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor Ondonti's Avatar
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    Re: Head Porting

    I am really into Beehive springs, and wrong keepers with scary trimming have held 8500 rpms on a big cam for me. Still scared.
    Brent
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  16. #76
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    Re: Head Porting

    Quote Originally Posted by Ondonti View Post
    I am really into Beehive springs, and wrong keepers with scary trimming have held 8500 rpms on a big cam for me. Still scared.

    Can't tell if this is sarcasm or not?
    I realize your talking 3.0 here Brent, but who besides Warren is actually running a BIG camshaft in their 8V SOHC 2.2/2.5? I also remember Boost geek had one of LRE's old .540" NA hydraulic camshafts not big duration @ 226 @ .050. Other than that, anyone else running anything considered a large camshaft? Beehives have limitations, but they're fine for our wimpy grinds for our applications. I don't consider the F4 or R5 with 235/220 duration @ .050 to be big camshafts.
    Todd

  17. #77
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    Re: Head Porting

    Speaking of cams, it seems like I should decide on a cam before deciding on springs. I would like a jack of all trades, master of none type of cam. I like to autocross, hit the drag strip on occasion, and I love long road trips. Any suggestions for a best bet?

  18. #78
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    Re: Head Porting

    Quote Originally Posted by cordes View Post
    Speaking of cams, it seems like I should decide on a cam before deciding on springs. I would like a jack of all trades, master of none type of cam. I like to autocross, hit the drag strip on occasion, and I love long road trips. Any suggestions for a best bet?
    I would start my search with what camshafts are currently available. Seems like sort of slim pickens to me. Don't know what all is stock (if any) these days from vendors. The S2+ camshaft was/is a nice all around camshaft for a HP street car. Works well with ported head, intake, exhaust manifolds, and larger turbo. Plenty of camshaft to easily get stout 2.2's into the 11's and still have great driveability. Probably a complete waste of money on a bone stock top end of engine though. It is a little hotter camshaft than the original S-60, esp. on the intake side. That would be my first suggestion.
    Todd

  19. #79
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    Re: Head Porting

    hey todd, question about the 942's. do you leave the damper spring in or do you just run the main spring.

    It looks a little tight in there with the damper spring.

    Brian

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman
    This one is easy, I have myself to blame, I rush things, don't pay attention to gauges when I should, change to much stuff at once then expect miracles, the list is endless.

  20. #80
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    Re: Head Porting

    I'd be interested in hearing the different experiences peeps have had with different cams

    ..THAT WOULD help with making choices

    I've run the MP 314 cams in ALL my 2.2's over the years
    there's really no difference to be felt on a flat road .. not until I pointed it up hill
    then .. holey ssssh....

    so loading the vehicle has an effect when you put a cam in .. a light car might not show so much improvement

    first pic below shows the section of road my cam worked on .. REALLY WELL
    top of the dead tree shows what would be "level" from the camera's pov

    inside corner , coming up is a 25 mph turn at the maximum
    stock cam would crest the hill , about the same distance behind the camera's pov at 50 mph

    the 314 cam got me over the top at 75 .. AND I was HAVING TO HOLD IT BACK as the road tweeks left at the top with a three foot deep ditch on the right .. so 75 IS the fastest you can go over the top..85 or 90 would probably have been easily done otherwise .. SERIOUSLY

    (added a couple just to show steepness)

    pics don't do that hill justice .. consider the height from the bridge to the top of the cliff

    & my house was 30 seconds from the top.. opening the hood the turbine housing would still be cherry red .. probably see through as I crest the hill .. no ,not kidding

    not my vid .. not my music (LOL) - ends with the hill
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6CFgGSRvqA
    I'd start wide open down hill to the hairpin ,, across the bridge and over the hump (two valleys) , down the hill to a 25 mph right turn and the straight run to the bridge (crossed that once , ONCE at 115 mph .. not doing it again as the road drops after the bridge and there's NO BRAKES until the first left turn on the hill..

    nurburgring..you ARE a go kart track compared to my neighborhood ...
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    Last edited by Dr. Johny Dodge; 04-01-2020 at 11:35 PM.

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