What are the options to use keep the SMEC when doing a TIII swap ?
The different TIII belt shape implies to use a TIII auxiliary gear which is smaller than the stock one.
How can I adapt the stock distributor to the camshaft (and which one) ?
What are the options to use keep the SMEC when doing a TIII swap ?
The different TIII belt shape implies to use a TIII auxiliary gear which is smaller than the stock one.
How can I adapt the stock distributor to the camshaft (and which one) ?
simon (turbovanman) made an adapter. dunno if he still has any around or the plans or whatnot.
Brian
Originally Posted by turbovanman
Thanks
I will send him a PM unless he looks this thread
Some replace the T-III sprocket, shaft and oil pump with regular 8 V parts with success.
It seems using the larger 8V sprocket slows the oil pump and eliminates some of the T-III oil pump issues.
A side benefit might be the ability to use an 8V block and distributor if one had room.
Thanks
Randy
There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.
Randy Hicks
86 GLHS60
86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
89 Turbo Minivan
83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
Edmonton,Alberta,Canada
That seems a good idea but that mean you have to modify the 8V camshaft gears to the TIII camshafts and that also may lead to timing belt not aligned with all the gears (like with hybrid engines).
A longer 8V timing belt may also be required
8 V sprocket on the intermediate shaft, AKA, oil pump drive shaft, not camshafts.
Thanks
Randy
There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.
Randy Hicks
86 GLHS60
86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
89 Turbo Minivan
83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
Edmonton,Alberta,Canada
wouldnt that chew up the trapezoidal tooth belt using it on a round tooth sprocket?
i thought simon had a custom pulley made when he did this.
i mean you could cut up an extra T3 cam gear and use the part with the teeth and weld it to the intermediate sprocket center section to make a larger diameter pulley for the intermediate shaft.
Brian
Originally Posted by turbovanman
That's what I thought : is it possible to mix TIII and TI sprockets?The belts have different shape
A custom pulley would be best but where to get them made ?
Welding may work if it is perfect centered and also, like I wrote, there is no problem with belt and sprockets alignment
Seems like a lot of work to retain the OE engine management. You have to start weighing the benefits of aftermarket vs the limitations of OE vs cost.
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
i mean you could cut up an extra T3 cam gear and use the part with the teeth and weld it to the intermediate sprocket center section to make a larger diameter pulley for the intermediate shaft.
THIS ^
thinkin' IF there are adjustable cam gears for the r/t motor then checking if the bolt centers for the bolts holding the two pulley halves together , ... it might be easier IF , IF IF IF the bolt centers for the adjustable 8V cam pulley were the same (????)
so maybe an 8V adjustable center section with the rt's outter cam pulley section simply bolted together
the 8V cam and intermediate shaft pulley are one and the same just flipped over
-so that MIGHT allow for an extra way it might fit together if you can use part of two different adjustable pulley sets
if doable then also being adjustable you can get the tooth to keyway alignment right on the intermediate pulley you've created
always easier if something can just be bolted together .. and a call to someone .. who sells the adjustable pulleys might answer the question in short order..
also I've seen posted here of elsewhere a two piece cam pulley made from two cam pulleys
cut so the centers are overlapped giving space for the bolts to hold it together
(I think being able to flip a section over allows the parts to overlap instead of trying to occupy the same space at the same time as the center hub is offset)
a home made pulley using the r/t's cam outer and the inner section done the same way could seriously reduce the cost
so machine shop with drill press vs machine shop with welder
if made adjustable then there's the ability to correct any alignment mistake in making your custom pulley
Last edited by Dr. Johny Dodge; 02-01-2019 at 05:24 PM.
I have 2 adjustable 16V camshaft sprocket and 8V one, I will try
I received the 2.5 TIII forged pistons with the other parts needed (ARP studs, cometic HG, ....)
I just need now to find a way to use the stock distributor
Sent a PM to Simon
Do I need a torque plate for bore the cylinder ?
Have you priced aftermarket engine management yet?
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
Do I need a torque plate for bore the cylinder ?
for boring , no
for honning , maybe , if you want to
depends on the "level" of perfection you're after in this build
and not only the head bolts or studs need to be torqued down but so do the main cap bolts or studs so all assembled torque stress' are present when you hone it
and , what car is this going into?
that answer might help with suggestions about engine controllers
Thanks
It is going in a shadow
I would like to avoid any more work for the electronic and money too, I have already emptied my pockets.
If I knew how much I had to spent for a TIII engine, I would have never tried
The main problem I have right now is the head, seller removed the camshafts and one of the rocker arm doesn't move and the bolts have been replaced for a reason I don't know
Is the spring rust a problem ? Do I have to removed them for clean them ?
It is a 1989 SMEC