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Thread: Clutch recommendations

  1. #1
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    Clutch recommendations

    Looking for recommendations for a replacement clutch for my Charger.
    I've been running a TU purple plate along with a sprung 4 puck disc for a few years. Truth, I like this clutch but it's not holding the power anymore.

    I've recently done a few upgrades to the car and all was running great but last weekend I decided to turn it up a little and threw an additional "chemically induced"100hp at it and shifting from third to fourth, it couldn't hold it.

    That said, the clutch is a few years old, it was recently inspected and the pucks still have life in them so I can only assume I'm over powering the clutch system.

    What are the choices out there today? A friend of mine in the import scene suggested a Clutch Masters twin carbon clutch but going to the site, it doesn't look like they offer a twin disc set up for the turbo Mopars, only a single.

    Same thing with ACT.

    Anyone have any insight?

  2. #2
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    I think you need to give TU a call. Seems odd that a 4-puck purple would slip in an L-body considering there's 10-second street driven cars running that clutch.

  3. #3
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    As clutch worn, the holding power will go down. So, how worn is the clutch? How much torque are you making?



  4. #4
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper1 View Post
    I think you need to give TU a call. Seems odd that a 4-puck purple would slip in an L-body considering there's 10-second street driven cars running that clutch.
    Well, with good traction, this is a ten second street car weighing in at 2655 with me in it. And I know these TU clutches are good and have been used in some high power applications with success.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by tryingbe View Post
    As clutch worn, the holding power will go down. So, how worn is the clutch? How much torque are you making?


    The one thing I did notice when I last assembled everything was the flywheel had what I would consider a decent groove worn into it. However, the disc looked in great shape as well as the pressure plate, no burn marks or anything like that. Maybe it's simply the pressure plate and flywheel wear that basically puts it beyond it's wear capacity. I've always looked at the disc as the wear point but these ceramic pucks seem to last longer than what they make contact with (Pressure plate and flywheel)

  5. #5
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    I had a feramic clutch disc, held excellent but extremely short life disc life.

    Since torque is what makes clutch slips, what's your power band look like right now?

  6. #6
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by tryingbe View Post
    I had a feramic clutch disc, held excellent but extremely short life disc life.

    Since torque is what makes clutch slips, what's your power band look like right now?
    I honestly donít know what the power band looks like, itís been a few years since the car has been on the dyno. All I can tell you is full boost hits about 3800 rpm and I typically shift the car between 6400 and 6600 rpm.

  7. #7
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    This video I took last weekend will give you a better idea of what happened when I turned it up. Because I wanted to see how the rpms reacted with the additional power and I donít make a habit of staring at my gages when driving, I held my phone on the steering wheel so I could watch afterwards. You can see that when the power came in while in third gear, the rpms shot up as well as wheel speed. When I shifted to fourth, the rpms shot up again however there was no increase in wheel speed, basically slipped..

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wsF-8I7UpIg#menu

  8. #8
    turbo addict
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    Doesn't seem like boost hits till well after 3800...

    whats the setup?

  9. #9
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by rx2mazda View Post
    Doesn't seem like boost hits till well after 3800...

    whats the setup?
    That was done on purpose, I threw some NOs at it to see how it reacted with the newer engine. I didnít want to shock it at too low an rpm so I waited until just over 4000 rpm and mashed the pedal.
    Last edited by Gaboon; 10-12-2018 at 09:19 PM.

  10. #10
    Authorized Vendor Turbo Mopar Vendor Chris W's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    As Reaper mentioned the clutch you purchased has held up in 10 and now 9 second L-Body platforms (James Reeves Omni GLH). I would suggest sending your clutch in to us for inspection and we can rebuild it at a fraction of the cost of a new clutch. Upgrades are available also including the Feramic pads which will increase torque load capacity.

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  11. #11
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris W View Post
    As Reaper mentioned the clutch you purchased has held up in 10 and now 9 second L-Body platforms (James Reeves Omni GLH). I would suggest sending your clutch in to us for inspection and we can rebuild it at a fraction of the cost of a new clutch. Upgrades are available also including the Feramic pads which will increase torque load capacity.

    Chris-TU
    Sound great Chris, I wasnít aware you could rebuild it. Iíll also need a flywheel.
    That said, the car is heading into storage tomorrow afternoon so it will be spring when I pull it out.
    Thanks for the input and Iíll be in touch.
    joey

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    Boost, it's what's for dinner... Turbo Mopar Staff Aries_Turbo's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    if the disc is sitting in a groove, i would think that it would reduce clamping force as well.

    Brian

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman
    This one is easy, I have myself to blame, I rush things, don't pay attention to gauges when I should, change to much stuff at once then expect miracles, the list is endless.

  13. #13
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris W View Post
    As Reaper mentioned the clutch you purchased has held up in 10 and now 9 second L-Body platforms (James Reeves Omni GLH). I would suggest sending your clutch in to us for inspection and we can rebuild it at a fraction of the cost of a new clutch. Upgrades are available also including the Feramic pads which will increase torque load capacity.

    Chris-TU
    Mine never had any problems holding up on the bottle
    600ft/lbs of drivetrain destruction.

  14. #14
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    I now believe the pressure plate and flywheel are simply worn out.
    Thanks for the input all.

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    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    Partially based on your experience I used a dual diaphragm (am i remembering the term right?) pressure plate in my 5spd van. I think the seating position in the van really helps make it livable and I've never had an issue with the feel of it. Only put ~300lb ft through it so can't comment on strength although i know someone else who put 500 across one. Seems like the purple plate (from the single one i've driven) could get a lot stiffer before the pedal effort was objectionable, but if it turns out you don't need the extra clamping then why bother, i suppose.

    Dont push the red button.You hear me?

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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by SUPER60omni View Post
    Mine never had any problems holding up on the bottle
    600ft/lbs of drivetrain destruction.

    Where have you been?

  17. #17
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by Vigo View Post
    Partially based on your experience I used a dual diaphragm (am i remembering the term right?) pressure plate in my 5spd van. I think the seating position in the van really helps make it livable and I've never had an issue with the feel of it. Only put ~300lb ft through it so can't comment on strength although i know someone else who put 500 across one. Seems like the purple plate (from the single one i've driven) could get a lot stiffer before the pedal effort was objectionable, but if it turns out you don't need the extra clamping then why bother, i suppose.
    I did run the dual diaphragm pressure plate for a number of years until I broke the last one I had. Following that, I switched to the purple plate which was great. Just made the car easier to drive. It also took everything I put to it until most recently.
    The new engine and upgrades Iíve made seem to make more power than prior, last week was the first time i bottle fed the engine just to see how it would take it. I only gave it a quick shot third to fourth, it got going in third with sticky tires however just couldnít clamp the power when the clutch was released in fourth. That said, there is still more power available as I backed the boost down and knocked back the timing a few degrees at the time it threw the NOS at it.

  18. #18
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by 85glht View Post
    Where have you been?
    In turbo V8 land

  19. #19
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor Ondonti's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    So the car didn't even move around? Making sure you didn't blow old harder tires off in a quick silent fashion.
    I have one stock T1 plate with 300k miles (very deep groove) and held near 400ft/lb on a 4 puck. I kept thinking it would fail with wear but it has not. I also have a few junky valeo plates that were modified wrong and they slipped at sub 300ft/lb with a 3 puck. I did a dumb thing and dumped clutch in 3rd gear on drag radials but clutch blew through instead of bogging or tire spin.

    Is the cable allowing the throwout bearing to fully retract? Is there oil coming from the rear main seal?

    100hp of spray at 4k could add quite a bit of sudden torque.
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  20. #20
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    Re: Clutch recommendations

    Quote Originally Posted by Ondonti View Post
    So the car didn't even move around? Making sure you didn't blow old harder tires off in a quick silent fashion.
    I have one stock T1 plate with 300k miles (very deep groove) and held near 400ft/lb on a 4 puck. I kept thinking it would fail with wear but it has not. I also have a few junky valeo plates that were modified wrong and they slipped at sub 300ft/lb with a 3 puck. I did a dumb thing and dumped clutch in 3rd gear on drag radials but clutch blew through instead of bogging or tire spin.

    Is the cable allowing the throwout bearing to fully retract? Is there oil coming from the rear main seal?

    100hp of spray at 4k could add quite a bit of sudden torque.
    It definitely spun the tires in third, the tires are a brand new set of Toyo R1R's 225-45-15 Once the clutch was released in fourth, I knew right away it was clutch slip and not the tires.
    The engine and transmission were recently rebuilt from the ground up, every seal, cable, bearing etc.. is new and I have absolutely no leaks at all. Obviously I check things over quite frequently.

    Engine, trans and clutch still work perfectly however the clutch is a few years old so I will upgrade and replace. I don't know what power levels I had it to but it's up there.

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