Whoops, i suck.This is true. I stated this in post #33
Whoops, i suck.This is true. I stated this in post #33
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
It runs! Now I need to find a good muffler. Any suggestions? Looking for 2.5 in and 2.5 out preferably.
Shes pretty much buttoned up right now. All back together and took it around the block. Need to send it up to the alignment shop and work out a few kinks but I think I did good. Made the exhaust myself. its 2.5" aluminized pipe with a Magnaflow straight through muffler and the tip from a 4th gen Camaro.
Looks great! Glad to hear you got it figured out. Just out of curiosity, what was causing the no start issue?
I can't see from the pics but does your van still have the clip that holds the upper radiator hose to the radiator support? If not you may want to put something there to keep the hose from flopping around.
The downpipe angle can be kind of hard to get right but it looks like you did a pretty good job. How does that muffler sound? I've been considering something similar and I'm wondering how loud it is.
180 degrees out of timing. Which I thought of and thought I fixed but I was thinking that the distributor had 12 teeth and it has 11 so I kept turning it to far and driving myself crazy. Felt dumb once I figured that out. The clip broke when I took it off but I used a body panel zip tie that fingers itself into the 8mm hole and locks into place then you draw it tight. Used them on alot of the wiring harness where all the factory clips had degraded into nothing. Then the whole thing was wrapped in cloth Tesa automotive tape and sleeved with 1/2 techflex heat resistant shielding.
Had to do the downpipe twice but careful measuring and lots of test fitting cutting an inch or two at a time made it almost professional looking. The hardest part was making the new muffler hanger and getting the tip right. The muffler is of good quality, costs about $90. I think it sounds good for what it is, very difficult to make these things sound good. Noise is relative, what I think is loud and what you think is loud could be very different things. I think its perfectly acceptable and it has a good tone to it. If you like things on the quieter side you can get the exact same muffler in a chambered style which would probably cut the noise considerably. I probably have $210 all in on the Exhaust and a lot of that was on buying really good clamps. Keep in mind I also ported my manifolds and had them ceramic coated as well.
I am having an issue with it running super cold now. even after driving a moderate distance the needle barely comes off the stop. It will only get up to "normal" operating temperature if it sits and idles for a long time.
Thermostat stuck open?
Well I would hope not since it is new. It just seems to be down on power and throttle response as well maybe the two are related. Maybe the timing is off still? Maybe something is wonky in the computer tables.
The only time I've ever had that happen was when I was low on coolant the engine will actually get hot but if it's low enough it won't register on the gauge. Maybe you have an air bubble. Is the turning on and off like it should? Have you checked the timing with a timing light and the coolant temp sensor unplugged? It should be at 12* but you can bump it up to 15* if you want. Any codes?
I'm sitting right at 14degrees of timing and yes with a light and the sensor unplugged. Only code that's come back so far is 17&22. So coolant temp cold. I've checked the level several times and there's no real way to burp the system on these as far as I know
My 3.0 takes a long time to warm up too. Sometimes the gauges are inaccurate also, double check with a temp gun.
I would agree with those things but why would It throw a code for it if it was just the gauge being inaccurate?
Well I have put about 700 miles on it so far and everything is great. Took 2nd place in the classics category at a local mopar show over the weekend. People would not stop asking me about it. I have dialed in some more timing and the cold running issue was my own damn fault. Turns out I just didn't put a thermostat in it at all! Don't know how I managed that. Any ideas where I can source a new Hood Liner and interior door handle trim piece?
Nice! Congrats!
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
I have a surging idle now in park. Under load she's fine right under 1000 where it should be. In park it revs from 1700-2000. Ideas?
So I found a 1991 Daytona ES 3.0 5SPD locally that I am thinking about picking up for a 5spd swap into the van. Am I correct that this has the right trans that I need? The car has 200k on it so am a little worried about using a trans that old but can I fix it up while its out of the car? After that from what I understand I just need the peddles form a 5sp van? what does anyone do about the shifter/floor area?
Yeah that's the right trans. Internals are the same as a 523. Edward Papp at the Turbo Dodge Trans Shop can rebuild it for you, but if you can drive the car beforehand and it shifts good, I'd just swap it straight in.
Another year in update. I've put about 12,000 miles on the build and I noticed some weird temp issues again. I found that the Heater control valve was leaking, as was the thermostat housing. Replacement valve that is available looked nothing like the original but I changed it anyway. Cleaned the housing up and resealed. Also changed the valve cover gaskets, plugs, wires, and distributor. Still acted like it was overheating so I pulled the thermostat out completely and it acted as if the system would never bleed completely. Pressure tested the system and it checked out fine. Oil is clean, coolant is clean. Closed it back up and drove it about 20 miles, the system over pressurized and blew coolant out of the overflow and cap making a mess everywhere. Borrowed a snap-On sniffer tool and my fears were confirmed, combustion gasses detected in the radiator immediately. So it looks like I have a blown headgasket. Its a bit dis-heartening when I put some much time in putting it together. Trying to figure out why this would happen.
I am going to tear it down and fix it but is there a specific gasket I should be using? Im sure the bump in compression ratio hasn't helped. Id like to fix it and fix it for good.
The 3.0 SOHC doesn't typically pop head gaskets. Something else is up. If/when you tear it down, inspect everything really well. Use OEM Mitsubishi bolts (they are better than 99% of the aftermarket stuff out there). Copper spray the head gaskets.