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Thread: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

  1. #21
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    So I installed my new condensor/lines/and cooling system. I noticed that my condensor fan is not contacting the back of the condensor if I spin it. Any idea why?

  2. #22
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Force Fed Mopar's Avatar
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    Quote Originally Posted by RaiderGT View Post
    So I installed my new condensor/lines/and cooling system. I noticed that my condensor fan is not contacting the back of the condensor if I spin it. Any idea why?
    So it doesn't eat it? lol.
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  3. #23
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    No idea why I said not contacting. I meant it is contacting lol. Turns out after messing with it in every way possible I have determined it's just made poorly and simply doesn't fit like it should. Going to look into fixing my old one.

  4. #24
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    My van originally had A/C but I removed it. The condenser was under the radiator support(grille must be removed to access it) and the fan was mounted to the inside of the radiator support(as in the engine bay side). It was mounted with two bolts on top and two clips on the bottom. Does that description match what you have? Do you still have the original parts to compare?

  5. #25
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    Quote Originally Posted by lightbulb010 View Post
    My van originally had A/C but I removed it. The condenser was under the radiator support(grille must be removed to access it) and the fan was mounted to the inside of the radiator support(as in the engine bay side). It was mounted with two bolts on top and two clips on the bottom. Does that description match what you have? Do you still have the original parts to compare?
    Yes, and Yes

  6. #26
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    Just out of curiosity, what is different about the new fan that makes it hit?

  7. #27
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    The fan is the same. Its the condenser itself. The mounting tabs are not robust so they flex too much and dont stand off enough. I believe the studs on the bottom are to far forward, pushing it further back and the flange for the A/C Lines sticks out too way to far and contacts the light housing. Basically everything is wrong with it.

  8. #28
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    Tips for priming the engine? Just spin it over with the fuel pump relay pulled?

  9. #29
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    If you leave the plugs out it will spin faster and prime quicker without putting as much friction on the 'dry' bearings, but realistically if you put it together with assembly lube i wouldn't give a second thought to just firing it up.

    Dont push the red button.You hear me?

  10. #30
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    Tried to start it. Full power from everything when the key was on. When I turned to the start position I got nothing. No clicks, no noise from the starter. Bumped the starter from the ground, turned over just fine but seemed to be dumping a lot of fuel out of the exhaust and no start. After a few cycles I noticed some smoke coming from the computer area. I stopped and couldnt find anything wrong and none of the wires were hot. Called it a night.

  11. #31
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    Make SURE your main ground (from the back of the front head i think?) is hooked up.

    Dont push the red button.You hear me?

  12. #32
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    This is the very fist time you've fired the new motor? I'm no 3.0 expert but one time after putting in a rebuilt 2.5 I had the crank 180 degrees out to the distrib and cam, BDC instead of TDC. Is that possible on the 3.0?

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  13. #33
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    Does the fuel pump prime?

    The starter relay is on the drivers side fender. I can see from the pictures that your relay setup is slightly different than mine so I'm not sure which one it is. It should have a brown wire connected to it that leads to the starter solenoid. The relay powers this wire when activated by 12v from the ignition switch(yellow wire from bulkhead connector) and ground through the neutral safety switch(black with yellow stripe). There should be a fusible link feeding the 12v to the ignition switch through the bulkhead connector.

    Quote Originally Posted by 2.216VTurbo View Post
    This is the very fist time you've fired the new motor? I'm no 3.0 expert but one time after putting in a rebuilt 2.5 I had the crank 180 degrees out to the distrib and cam, BDC instead of TDC. Is that possible on the 3.0?
    It's possible but there are cast-in timing marks and matching ones on the sprockets. The bottom timing belt cover is under the engine mount so it can't easily be removed to check the marks for the crank. The cam marks can easily be checked by removing the top covers. It's possible to install the distributor with the rotor in any position allowed by it's gear but the body only fits on one way with a limited range of adjustment. You must install it with the rotor in the correct position and you must put the plug wires on the correct posts. The distributor cap can be deceiving because the contacts on the inside don't line up with their posts on the outside. If you point the rotor at the cylinder #1 post/tower on the outside you will be way off. There are diagrams showing the layout but you can just look at the inside of the cap and see which posts the contacts lead to. With the timing marks lined up the rotor should be pointing towards the intake manifold.

  14. #34
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    Fuel pump primes fine. Power is good to everything. Main ground is to the head where it should be. All other grounds were thoroughly cleaned. and back in their respective places. Distributer was installed based on how it was taken out and confirmed alignment with a Chiltons. Crank and cam were algined with the factory timing marks and checked multiple times before reassembly. I was concerned about the neutral saftey switch. The reverse lights are constantly on no matter what gear it is in. The amount of fuel is concerning as well.

  15. #35
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    Inside the transmission there is a cam that the neutral safety switch rides on. There is a divot in the cam to allow the switch(which is an NC type switch) to pop out when the reverse gear is selected. There are also two grounded metal contacts on this cam. The grounded contacts touch the metal tip of the switch when either park or neutral is selected. The middle of the three pins is connected to this metal tip to ground the black and yellow wire and allow the starter relay to work. The outer two pins connect to the internal switch for the lights. It doesn't matter which way you put the connector on. The switch has a crush-able washer on it's threads to allow a one time adjustment. If you crank it in too far the reverse lights will not work but the car will still start. If you don't crank it in far enough the reverse lights will stay on and the car will not start.

    My guess is that you may have replaced this switch or just the washer but didn't tighten it in to crush the washer far enough. If that's the case just turn it in a little at a time until it works properly.

    I'm not sure about the fuel though. You should do the key dance to make sure there isn't a MAP sensor issue or something like that. Check the vacuum line going to the FPR for fuel which would indicate a torn/leaking diaphragm.

    On a related note my vans reverse lights were non-functional for years because of this. I was baffled by the fact that when I removed the switch the lights would come on but as soon as I screwed it in they stopped working. At the time I assumed that there was something messed up inside the transmission which, at the time, was a magic mystery box to me. A couple years later I started getting into rebuilding this trans and I bought a neon a413 from the junkyard to get parts from. This trans came with a zip-tie on the threads, presumably to place the switch at the right depth. I thought wow some idiot thought a zip-tie was going to keep this switch in there? The first decent rebuild kit I ever bought came with this washer and I had no idea what it was for so I looked through the list and through the process of elimination determined that this mystery washer was for the switch. Then I looked at the parts trans and how the switch worked and it all made sense. Took out my neutral safety switch which had NO washer, popped the washer on, cranked it in, and bam. My reverse lights finally worked.

  16. #36
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    So I had a fee things going on. Thanks for the tip on the neutral safety switch lightbulb. Not sure if it was faulty but it let me on a trail of breadcrumbs to the route issue. Chased voltage and amps all across the harness and realized two of the connectors were swapped and they plug into each other perfectly so the starter relay was shorting and the 2&3 injectors were getting constant power running them wide open with ignition.

    Crank case full of fuel. Drain the oil twice, turned engine over by hand and checked the cylinders with a bore scope camera. Everything is ok. Turns over fine with the key. Seems the ignition timing is wrong. The best I could get was fire,miss,fire,miss. Looked at the internet, a Chiltons, and an Alldata to see proper alignment. They are all different and conflicting. I swear I had it right based on what I had been told here and on what I could see. Going to get a light in it and try a few more things. Before I get to hung up on the timing is there anything else I may be missing?

  17. #37
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    Sounds like you have it under control. If the distributor is one tooth off it will act just as you are describing. It will tease you but won't stay running. Like I said in my last post check the codes with the key dance just to make sure there is nothing obvious there. Good Luck!

  18. #38
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    It's also possible to connect the plug wires to the cap incorrectly if you don't realize that the terminals on top aren't just hooked to the terminals beneath them in the cap. Some of them travel across the cap internally. At least, i remember this being true..

    Dont push the red button.You hear me?

  19. #39
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    Quote Originally Posted by Vigo View Post
    It's also possible to connect the plug wires to the cap incorrectly if you don't realize that the terminals on top aren't just hooked to the terminals beneath them in the cap. Some of them travel across the cap internally. At least, i remember this being true..
    This is true. I stated this in post #33. The haynes manual shows a picture of this and you can see it on the inside of the cap. Normally the caps have numbers on top labeling the terminals though.

  20. #40
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    Re: My 1988 Voyager 3.0

    My cap is plainly labeled.

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