https://web.archive.org/web/20160912...egaSquirt.html
Alert! This wheel decoder has some serious issues if you’re running sequential injection. May also have some issues with wasted spark. Ask James Murray to fix the decoder if you want to use this. Otherwise, I recommend a 36-1 trigger wheel instead. It’s especially bad on the MS3 where he attempted to improve the decoder, but gave up after it got far worse.
You’ve been warned.
I'm happy to get rid of the HEP sensor and plastic welded distributor. No more bad HEP sensor or its wiring.
Last edited by tryingbe; 09-09-2017 at 03:34 PM.
CL idle definitely isn't 100% necessary. My engine would idle well without it but it would speed up as it got warmer. When it's 20 degrees in the winter, the temperature range is so great that it would be idling at 1200 rpm when warm if I set the throttle stop to a good spot for a cold start. You definitely need to get the spark and fuel tables right with or without CL idle. This is very important. Without them being set up correctly you'll never get closed loop idle to work right. It will hunt. It's not a band aid for a crappy tune by any means just a supplement. It helps to create a section of the spark table just below your idle speed with a couple extra degrees of advance over what your engine needs to idle. I think this is mentioned in the manual somewhere. Driving slowly through parking lots and parking was another area where the idle control helped me. The power steering bogging down the engine was somewhat annoying without the idle control working correctly. Then things like the blower motor and radiator fan all affect idle speed. I also use the idle advance control.
Microsquirt and Qaudspark at stock LM location.
Had to design a beefier new crank sensor bracket.
Engine bay good to go.
Injector resister, on/off idle solenoid
E85 sensor
Boost control solenoid and PCV blowby solenoid (opens at 0psi)
Fuseblocks and PC680 battery
Nice work Harry. Professional looking install!
Is that a pressure transducer on the wastegate actuator line?
Wayne H.
'91 Dodge Spirit ES 2.5L turbo 5spd
'05 PT GT 2.4T HO autostick (RIP)
'89 Plymouth Acclaim 2.5L turbo auto, "Slugmobile" yes, THE Slugmobile!
'89 Dodge Caravan SE 2.5L turbo auto, "Mean Mini" yes, Gus' Mean Mini! (Current best 11.699 @ 114.43 mph! - Oct 15th, 2022 Cecil County Dragway, MD)
MeanMini dragracing videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...URZLB1RxGYF6vw
and other cars, trucks and motorcycles
https://www.youtube.com/user/SlugmobileMeanMini
Wayne H.
'91 Dodge Spirit ES 2.5L turbo 5spd
'05 PT GT 2.4T HO autostick (RIP)
'89 Plymouth Acclaim 2.5L turbo auto, "Slugmobile" yes, THE Slugmobile!
'89 Dodge Caravan SE 2.5L turbo auto, "Mean Mini" yes, Gus' Mean Mini! (Current best 11.699 @ 114.43 mph! - Oct 15th, 2022 Cecil County Dragway, MD)
MeanMini dragracing videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...URZLB1RxGYF6vw
and other cars, trucks and motorcycles
https://www.youtube.com/user/SlugmobileMeanMini
That answers both of the questions I had. Cool setup. Wiring harness looks pretty clean.
RPM signal got distorted over 2400rpm, a friend suggest to check the air gap between the crank sensor and the wheel, it was between 2-3mm. Adjust it to .5mm and RPM signal is now fine.
I just did emission and the car runs cleaner than it ever did on stock computer. I will definitely pick up more MPG as I can set cruising at 16:1 vs stock 13.7-14.1:1 ratio. I noticed when I set ignition timing with stock computer and distributor at idle speed, timing always jumps from between 10 BDC to 14BDC, it would NEVER settle at just 12 BDC like the factory manual calls for. With Microsquirt and a 36-1 wheel, ignition timing is bang on EVERY time.
Very happy with result and money well spent.
Last edited by tryingbe; 09-25-2017 at 11:24 PM.
That's awesome. I'm not against the stock electronics in any way. I think there are many advantages to using them in modified form(I tried my best with the 3.0l). They are very dated though. It would be awesome if someone could make an updated "stock" computer. The actual software is excellent and very well thought out. It was compromised by the limitations of the hardware though. The adaptives work awesome and with a faster processor and more memory a lot more could be done. All I'm trying to say here is that I understsand why more people haven't gone megasquirt on here and I was conflicted in my decision in doing so.
Can't say anything about emissions as there is no testing done here in WI, but it doesn't surprise me at all that you are getting better results in that regard. Are you using the EGO control feature? It helps a lot with consistency. Especially at idle when you're using low pulsewidths. I noticed a pretty big difference in fuel efficiency. My tune is set up to give me better fuel efficiency in cruise situations but it's aggressive on fuel under harsh driving circumstances. I had an auto when I switched so the MPG difference seemed less to me but it was still significant. I swapped in the 5-speed after I was already running ms2. I could definitely get better gas mileage but I like my balanced tune. I get around 30mpg in a V6 van with an a543. I will only get about 26 if I'm hard on it. That's beyond satisfactory IMO in a 3000~lb vehicle. With the auto I only got about 20-22 with megasquirt and about 18-20 with the stock SMEC and no LC-1 trickery. That's without lockup working driving at 55mph BTW. I could get 27 on the stock computer with the auto if I lowered fuel pressure and tricked the SMEC with the LC-1 (I had at the time) and a manual lockup switch. I have all 6 injectors on the same driver and fuel pressure fixed at 48psi. Mine is a worst case scenario setup and it works. Very well.
It sounds like you're using low impedance injectors. Are you configuring megasquirt for that with the current limiting settings or are you treating them like high impedance injectors?
I would agree with stock software is really well written, way ahead of its time. While sounds good in theory, I don't see it ever happening in practice with someone making a updated "stock" computer. There is no market for it.
On top of that, Chrysler's no longer available 2.2/2.5 hall effect pickup sensor, often DOA aftermarket HEP sensor, its 30 year old wiring connector, distributor, plastic welded shutter wheel, single coil setup, are all weak points in my opinion. I was happy to get rid of all of those parts with a crank sensor, a 36-1 wheel, and a 420a coilpack. Did I mention my ignition timing is spot on every time!? Try to get a stock 2.2/2.5 to do just that!
You mean wideband o2 feedback? Yes, I am.
I have inline resistors wired in the injectors, I would assume that is the same as treating them as high impedance injectors?
That right there might be worth the price of admission. Nothing will kill any engine faster than bad timing/detonation, and even if all it does is keep you from having to do a head gasket, it's probably worth the $$ to not have to spend the time/frustration.
On a side note, I'm curious how much less expensive Micro is vs. Mega. I know I can just look up the prices, but that never includes all the details, like having a timing wheel made, etc. The point being to help decide if "going big" would be materially more expensive, or worth the extra $$ to allow for expansion into other features in the future...
I'm excited to see how much things improve over factory electronics, I've always thought that they were what was really holding back the potential of our cars...
Mike
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government - lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." - Patrick Henry
Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny.
- Edmund Burke
My Microsquirt total cost and break down is listed in the first page, $1226. Only cost not included is cost of welding the crank sensor bracket. Bracket is made with some 1/4 inch metal welded to a stock bracket that bolts to the alternator bracket and motor mount. Short, strong, and everything.
My friend can supply 36-1 wheel ring that will fit a common block crank pulley, you'll just have to weld then together yourself. I started an interest thread, but there doesn't seem to be any interest.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...est&highlight=